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StableCrete is a proprietary liquid penetrating sealer for all concretes, new or aged. Deep Penetrating product that reacts within a concrete interior to form a solid Inside the matrix to waterproof the concrete. Extremely low VOC content product that does not leave a film on the surface and is compatible with all coatings to be applied later. Unequaled 15 year warranty for waterproofing following one step spray application. The No-Low moisture and oxygen interior provides corrosion protection for embedded steel members to prevent concrete spalling.
StableCrete is a proprietary formula manufactured exclusively for ConselcoR, Inc. it is available in 2.5, 5, 55 and 375 gallon totes. Telephone 321-779-4478 or E-mail StableCrete@gmail.com for pricing and shipping information. We ship worldwide with the smallest container being 2.5 gallon size.
Current price per gallon is $70.00 plus shipping and tax. UPS Ground and common carrier [truck] will take 3-4 days delivery in North America. We shop prices for freight forwarders outside the US and obtain clients approval prior to shipping.
There are no problems with customs or hazard materials when shipping the StableCrete product. Call or E-mail for more information.
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How long does sealer for ceramic tile need to dry before walking on it?
It all depends on the sealer you used! I use a product called StableCrete that penetrates into the grout joints to waterproof them without leaving a film. Ready for light traffic in four hours. The Grout is what you seal with a ceramic install and not the ceramic!
What is green concrete and its advantages?
Green Concrete is a term given to a concrete that has had extra steps taken in the mix design and placement to insure a sustainable structure and a long life cycle with a low maintenance surface. First step in creating a Green Concrete is to waterproof it ASAP. This Stabilizes the concrete to inhibit the internal chemistry from reacting with an atmosphere to cause surface degradation problems. A product called StableCrete can be used to penetrate into a concrete where it forms a solid inside the gel-pore/capillary system that gives waterproofing protection for a warranted 15 year period! [yes concrete is porous and absorbs water]. A waterproof concrete does not allow contaminates [chlorides being the worst] to enter the matrix and form corrosion cells on the re-inforcing steel [re-bar]. Rust on steel occurs when the pH of the concrete drops below 11.5 thus destroying the passivating protective layer on the steel. (more info www.StableCrete.com). A Stabilized concrete treated with StableCrete, reduces the moisture and oxygen content, two of the four ingredients needed for corrosion to commence. Concrete will last longer and will not need a repair or replacement if protected from the start. This makes it "Green"
Do you need a waterproof membraine if installing floor boards directly onto concrete?
If you understand that concrete is a porous material that absorbs and has moisture in it, you then should also understand that this moisture will move toward the top surface of a concrete floor. This moisture will promote mold growth and will also destroy the bond of of most adhesives. Membrane coatings are prone to failure when this moisture carries alkali in concrete to the surface. You are much better off using a penetrating sealer such as "StableCrete" to waterproof the concrete. This product penetrates to form a solid in the capillary/gel-pore system of a concrete. This stops moisture migration and provides for a superior bond to the concrete.
Do you need to put a sealer on sanded grout?
You don't necessarily "NEED" to seal it, but it is a wise choice! Grout is a cementitious material just like concrete and both absorb water unless they are waterproofed. Absorptive concretes develop structural issues and require repairs with chlorides and other contaminates which enter and cause reinforcing steel to corrode. Grouts merely absorb stains and discoloration becomes an eyesore. Mop water that isn't changed often enough when cleaning will be absorbed and turn grout joints dark, and spills are wicked into a grout within seconds. I have beige tile and grout in a kitchen/family room area that is six years old and looks brand new. Sealed with a product called StableCrete to waterproof the day after it was installed. Common response to visitors walking in, "What a beautiful tile job, is it new?"
What is a typical concrete abrasion resistance?
Several factors influence the abrasive qualities of a concrete surface. Mix design, exposure conditions, placement and finishing regimens are foremost. For instance a broom finish offers more skid resistance however it will demonstrate wear much quicker than a steel troweled finish will. Whatever these conditions are should be tested if the abrasion qualities are a real concern. ASTM C-672 Scaling resistance and ASTM C-31 Compressive Strength are the two test that are all telling as to what you can expect. Can be very important! Concrete Dusting is a problem in areas where electronics attract silica dust from abraded concrete surfaces, causing problems with the electronics. Use of a product called "StableCrete" is a way to stop dusting and improve compressive strength of a concrete. This material penetrates into a concrete and forms a solid inside the capillary system of concrete making it more dense. It also waterproofs and gives acid resistance to the concrete.
How long does sealer for ceramic tile need to dry before walking on it?
It all depends on the sealer you used! I use a product called StableCrete that penetrates into the grout joints to waterproof them without leaving a film. Ready for light traffic in four hours. The Grout is what you seal with a ceramic install and not the ceramic!
What is green concrete and its advantages?
Green Concrete is a term given to a concrete that has had extra steps taken in the mix design and placement to insure a sustainable structure and a long life cycle with a low maintenance surface. First step in creating a Green Concrete is to waterproof it ASAP. This Stabilizes the concrete to inhibit the internal chemistry from reacting with an atmosphere to cause surface degradation problems. A product called StableCrete can be used to penetrate into a concrete where it forms a solid inside the gel-pore/capillary system that gives waterproofing protection for a warranted 15 year period! [yes concrete is porous and absorbs water]. A waterproof concrete does not allow contaminates [chlorides being the worst] to enter the matrix and form corrosion cells on the re-inforcing steel [re-bar]. Rust on steel occurs when the pH of the concrete drops below 11.5 thus destroying the passivating protective layer on the steel. (more info www.StableCrete.com). A Stabilized concrete treated with StableCrete, reduces the moisture and oxygen content, two of the four ingredients needed for corrosion to commence. Concrete will last longer and will not need a repair or replacement if protected from the start. This makes it "Green"
Do you need a waterproof membraine if installing floor boards directly onto concrete?
If you understand that concrete is a porous material that absorbs and has moisture in it, you then should also understand that this moisture will move toward the top surface of a concrete floor. This moisture will promote mold growth and will also destroy the bond of of most adhesives. Membrane coatings are prone to failure when this moisture carries alkali in concrete to the surface. You are much better off using a penetrating sealer such as "StableCrete" to waterproof the concrete. This product penetrates to form a solid in the capillary/gel-pore system of a concrete. This stops moisture migration and provides for a superior bond to the concrete.
Do you need to put a sealer on sanded grout?
You don't necessarily "NEED" to seal it, but it is a wise choice! Grout is a cementitious material just like concrete and both absorb water unless they are waterproofed. Absorptive concretes develop structural issues and require repairs with chlorides and other contaminates which enter and cause reinforcing steel to corrode. Grouts merely absorb stains and discoloration becomes an eyesore. Mop water that isn't changed often enough when cleaning will be absorbed and turn grout joints dark, and spills are wicked into a grout within seconds. I have beige tile and grout in a kitchen/family room area that is six years old and looks brand new. Sealed with a product called StableCrete to waterproof the day after it was installed. Common response to visitors walking in, "What a beautiful tile job, is it new?"
How do you remove dog urine stains from tile grout?
I will make a list of everything on the Internet that everyone CLAIMS to have worked for them and /or eliminated the problems. 1) A White Vinegar baking soda paste I made. 2) Plain White Vinegar 3) CLR 4) Zep grout cleaner 5) Soft Scrub 6) "Professional" enzyme grout cleaner 7) Hydrogen Peroxide 8) Hydrogen Peroxide and baking soda paste I made. 9) Miracle Acidic Cleaner 10) Natures Miracle pet odor and stain remover/cleaner 11) OxiClean 12) Tilex 13) Bleach and water mixture 14) PURE Bleach I could go on and on but let me just put ANYONE who is desperate to solve this issue out of their MISERY and tell you what works. AJAX power cleanser and a grout scrub brush .......most probably refer to it as (comet cleanser) BUT dont be fooled by that green can your Mom and Grandmoms and Moms before them all used ........AJAX has something in it called "OXYGEN BLEACH POWDER" which Comet cleanser DOES NOT ! Therfore it doesnt solve the odor of the stains. I'm not sure there is any room for improvement of the research she has put into this answer. My only comment would be, if the grout joints were sealed to waterproof them to begin with there would be no absorption of urine into them to begin with, hence no bacteria growth and no smell. I often see, after what is deemed a thorough cleaning, we will apply StableCrete and see contaminates within the gel-pore/capilarry system being expelled up and out to the surface. Then they are removed and another application of StableCrete will penetrate even deeper and in most cases waterproof the grout and solve the problem forever. Best to apply and waterproof before any contaminates are allowed into the concrete/grout gel-pore system, otherwise you'll be trying one of these fixes when the smell becomes bad enough.
What is a typical concrete abrasion resistance?
Several factors influence the abrasive qualities of a concrete surface. Mix design, exposure conditions, placement and finishing regimens are foremost. For instance a broom finish offers more skid resistance however it will demonstrate wear much quicker than a steel troweled finish will. Whatever these conditions are should be tested if the abrasion qualities are a real concern. ASTM C-672 Scaling resistance and ASTM C-31 Compressive Strength are the two test that are all telling as to what you can expect. Can be very important! Concrete Dusting is a problem in areas where electronics attract silica dust from abraded concrete surfaces, causing problems with the electronics. Use of a product called "StableCrete" is a way to stop dusting and improve compressive strength of a concrete. This material penetrates into a concrete and forms a solid inside the capillary system of concrete making it more dense. It also waterproofs and gives acid resistance to the concrete.
Should waterproofing be done before or after the tile bed?
If you are using a concrete substrate as the base, the concrete should be free of any construction debris and any barrier [like paint or drywall texture] that may be on a surface. You should waterproof the host concrete material 1st before setting the bed. I recommend using a product called StableCrete to waterproof the concrete. This will give your mud superior adhesion to the concrete and will also prevent moisture from coming Up through a slab to cause bond problems at a later date. Cement based grouts are very porous and will absorb water and stains dropped on a floor surface. If you waterproof the grout joints you will see years of an original color joint not subject to absorbing contaminates. This also prevents moisture from migrating down into a grout and penetrating to the bottom if a tile where that moisture can compromise the tile to mud joint bond. If you have ever had to remove grout, pull up tiles, re-mud with thin set, reinstall your tile and then re-grout, you will appreciate your waterproofed bonding! [Not for use on Polymer based grout]. Essential for longevity and maintenance of any concrete or cement grout to waterproof it!
How do you remove dried shave cream from ceramic tile and grout?
If the polish is a petroleum based product it will probably require a solvent type cleaner to modify the chemical structure of the polish. Start by removing as much as possible with soap and water. Then graduate to Mineral spirits on up to acetones or toulene products. May take several tries and re-saturation. Might also try commercial products such as "Goof Off" and or steam! Water based is easier! Soap & Water to start and commerially available products with a sodium percarbonate ingredient[an Oxidizer], if the stain is presistent. I use a brand called Oxiclean that works well. I recommend any grout be sealed with with a waterbased Low VOC penetrating sealer that soaks into the grout where it reacts with alkali found in all Portland Cement products. This forms a solid inside to waterproof any cement material. I have beige tile with white grout in several high traffic areas, including a kitchen! Six years old and looks brand new! After the StableCrete application, I poured grape juice in an area to test it. After the liquid evaporated a soap & water sponge removed the grape stain residue. Walla -- White grout joints!!
What works best to get rid of Efflorescence muriatic acid or a different type of cleaner?
Bob is awesome A Real Answer::: Muriatic acid is around 30% + Hydrochloric Acid and is very harmful to any Portland Cement based material, be it concrete [poured, pumped or pneumatically applied], as well as grout mixes! This type acid attacks the lime in the mix which is the binder that holds a concrete together. Besides disintegrating a concrete it reduces the pH and sets you up for more problems in the long term. We do not recommend Muriatic At All! Several cleaners on the market profess to be a cleaner or remover. I use a buffered phosphoric product! First, we mechanically abrade the surface, removing as much of the salts as possible. Then we apply our remover and observe an aggressive bubble condition for 10 or so minutes. Rinse and reapply until no more bubbling is seen. This may require several applications to insure complete removal, however we have not compromised the concrete and created any conditions that will exacerbate a future problem. Rinse again and test for surface pH and provide a bath if necessary to bring the surface back to a 6-7 pH range. Once the efflorescence has been removed, apply a penetrating sealer, such as StableCrete to the surfaces to waterproof the concrete. A penetrating sealer migrates into the Gel-Pore/Capillary of a concrete and forms a solid inside the matrix. This stops contaminates and moisture from entering and also does not allow internal chemistry to migrate out of a concrete to react with an atmosphere! Efflorescence does not reappear and by having a reduced moisture content interior, freeze thaw damages are no longer a concern!
