Go in to the center of the town and try to enter the ruins. At the stairs, there is an old lady who will stop you. She is the elder, and you have to go beat the Galactic grunt she talks about. Once you do that, she walks up to you and then you can deliver the Old Charm. After that, go into the ruins, and at the end read the carving thingamabobber, and Cynthia's gramma walks up AGAIN. You MUST do this because she gives you the HM Surf.
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You get Surf from the elder of Celestic Town.
In the cave or in one of the houses.
Take of the phyduck
You get HM03 Surf when you go to Celestic Town which is above Solaceon Town where the Psyducks are suffering from headaches. You will fight a galactic grunt when you reach Celestic Town, after that go into the ruins after you talk to the elder. The elder will give you HM03 Surf after you press A facing to the picture on the wall.
Read the inscription at the back of the Celestic Town Ruins, the Village Elder will join you and give you the Surf HM.