The engine must be at top dead center (TDC) on the #1 cylinder. TDC is on the compression stroke. You are setting it on the exhaust stroke. Remove all spark plugs and slowly turn the engine over by hand. With your finger or a compression gage over the # 1 piston hole, when you feel or see compression you are on the compression stroke, Place a small wooden dowel rod about 8" long inside the #1 spark plug hole and touch the top of the piston. When the dowel moves to the top you are at TDC. Now set the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the # 1 spark plug connection.
if the starter is TRYING to start the engine check to see if your getting fuel. if it doesn't then check battery connections, starter, fuses. if no fuel check fuses, pump, and filter. if it is simply not firing check plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and plug wires. HOWEVER if it ISN'T turning over, but the starter is turning the motor then check the TIMING BELT.
The point gap should be set when the cam follower is at the highest point of the distributor cam lobe. Depending on how the distributor is timed that may not be TDC, and for that matter, it doesn't matter which of the eight high points you use. If you have a "dwell tach", setting the dwell is a lot more accurate than messing with feeler gauges and trying to figure out when you're at the high point of the distributor cam. When using a dwell tach you just have to put the points in and have them close enough to start the engine, then you can adjust the points from there. If I remember right, didn't the Chev use points that had an Allen wrench adjustment and a window for access? It's been a while. Previous post is correct about using a dwell meter to set point gap. New points should be close enough out of the box to start the engine. Allen wrench is 1/8". Correct dwell should be 30 degrees.
The position of cylinder 1 depends on the engine manufacturer and how they decided to number it. You will need to look in a Chilton or other type automotive manual to get the position of #1 cylinder. The position of #1 on the distributor cap can often be changed when a mechanic works on the engine so you can't even go by the book when you're trying to figure out where to put the wires. The easiest way to determine where #1 is on the distributor cap is: Pull all sparkplugs. (this makes it easier to turn the engine by hand) Lightly place your finger over the plug hole of cylinder 1 (Figure out the position of #1 by checking the manual) and slowly turn the engine by hand until you feel compression on that cylinder. Keep turning the engine until you feel the engine STOP making pressure and start PULLING. At that point, turn the engine the OTHER direction until you get to that point where turning either way starts pulling. At that point the engine is at #1 Top Dead Center. Pull the distributor cap and the rotor is pointing at the #1 position. This may also help you. copy and paste into your browser. http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/ Pick you model year and then make.
i have a 1972 nova with a points distributor. I replaced it with an hei i had laying around. i opened up the spark plug gap from .035 to .045 to better utilize the increased voltage of the hei. i ran a wire directly from the battery to the hei(through a switch on the dash to turn on and off) as i knew that the points distributor wiring would limit the voltage(something about a resistor wire or ballast resistor) The problem i had was that the engine didnt idle well with the hei as it did with the points. however the hei ran better through the rpms(up to 6000rpm) so im still trying to research that problem Some motors will idle too fast/rough at manifold vacuum, in which case you will need to connect your vacuum advance to ported vacuum.
Pick up coil?
I'm not quite sure what your question is here. The distributor is back near the firewall. Usually the rotor is facing to the rear and slightly towards the driver side when the engine is ready to fire on the number 1 cylinder. However, it really doesn't matter where it points if it has been removed and you are reinstalling it. Make sure the engine is on the number 1 compression stroke. From there, you can drop the distributor in. Find out where the rotor is pointing with the distributor cap on. That's your #1 position. From there, you simply install your plug wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in a counter clockwise rotation. If you get this done and it still won't fire, or it pops and sputters when trying to start it, play with your timing a little. If it still won't start you may be 180 degrees out. Simply swap the plug wires at the distributor cap directly across from their present location.
check out an engine and distributor shop they will get the timing set for you, if you are looking for the firing order i have long since forgotten. once the distributor is set right it is a matter of twisting the cap till your engine runs nice, however you dont want to do this unless you are comfortable with engines
Are you just trying to start the engine, or is it already running? If it is running it sounds like the power steering pump is bad.
To install a distributor on a 1996 Fleetwood Brougham, start by ensuring the engine is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke for cylinder number one. Align the rotor with the mark on the distributor housing for cylinder number one. Insert the distributor into the engine block, making sure the rotor engages with the camshaft gear. Secure the distributor in place with the hold-down clamp and reconnect the spark plug wires according to the firing order.
If you mean that the shaft won't turn while the engine is cranking then check the following: Your pinion gear is stripped or the roll pin on the pinion gear is sheared...or... I'm willing to bet that your distributor is not fully seated into its socket and the pinion gear is not engaging--if the distributor doesn't seat all the way, it could be that the oil pump shaft has not engaged properly into the end of the distributor shaft and it is keeping it from seating...if this is the case, then rotate the distributor shaft by hand by turning the rotor until it catches the oil pump shaft then rotate it backwards, past the initial timing mark until the pinion hits the right position so the rotor lines up with the timing mark when the distributor is fully seated (this can take a little trial-and-error to get it ligned up right). If you mean that the whole distributor won't turn (while you are trying to set the timing) then you probably haven't sufficiently loosened the clamping bolt or you are not applying enough force.
If a fuel pump were bad it would not send fuel to the engine. If this were the case the engine would not start it would turn over and produce spark. Without fuel and spark there is no fire thus no combustion. If you are trying to figure out why a vehicle will not start and it is turning over you need to test for spark. This can be done by testing each individual spark plug. Pull one out at a time and have someone turn the ignition and watch for spark. Make sure that each plug wire is properly connected. If none of them have spark then you should look to the distributor. Check the distributor cap and rotor to ensure they are making contact and are not worn.
shes probably trying to impress you