There are three sources to belt tensioner failure. The first is through routine wear and tear of the drive system, which is inevitable. Other failure include failure of the pulley bearing resulting in noise, and weakening of the spring loaded assembly itself.
The idler tensioner pulley on your 1999 Ford F3 50 pickup truck is held in place with a single retaining bolt. The retaining bolt will go through the middle of the pulley. Tighten the retaining bolt to install the tensioner pulley.
There should be a sticker under the hood on the radiator support that shows proper belt routing. Alo check belt tensioner for weakness and idler pulley bearings for wear. They go bad very often. The belt goes over the alt,under the idler pulley,over the a.c. comp,under the crank pulley,on the inside of water pump, and around tensioner pulley. There should be a sticker under the hood on the radiator support that shows proper belt routing. Alo check belt tensioner for weakness and idler pulley bearings for wear. They go bad very often. The belt goes over the alt,under the idler pulley,over the a.c. comp,under the crank pulley,on the inside of water pump, and around tensioner pulley.
Put a ratchet on the tensioner pulley bolt... set your ratchet on "loosen" turn the tensioner pulley and assembly upword... hold it there and remove the belt... DO NOT LET GO OF THE RATCHET AFTER YOU REMOVE THE BELT slowly let the tensioner pulley move back to a resting position...
Bad bearing in a belt driven accessory? i.e. alternator, water pump, idler pulley, belt tensioner, etc.?
First thing, if your belt seems soft or sloppy when you push on it or if it bounces at an idle. When you start/drive you will get a slight knocking sound between 900-1200 RPM that's the internal spring on the tensioner. To fix this you have to go to a dealer and get the replacement supercharger tensioner. The main tensioner in the back near the firewall is easy to find at auto zone or o'reilly auto parts. The idler pulley is a lot easyer to check. Take your accessory belt off of the idler pulley and try to move it, if theres ANY slop it needs to be replaced.
Okay, open belt. The top of belt goes straight from starter pulley to steering pulling along firewall up from front side of steering pump to tensioner pulley. Tensioner pulley is right above steering pump and belt goes on its backsite, grove side of belt doesn't touch pulley which goes around the top of it, from there to the drive shaft(the largest pulley coming from the engine)the groves match the pulley and go 3/4 around the pulley then go up to the starter again. Along the way to the starter pulley is goes around the idler pulley on its backside again. Tensioner Pulley has to be held for the belt to fit all the pulleys with a 15mm wrench. Tough but not
Run the top half of the belt through the fan blades, rotate the fan 180 degrees, then pull that half back through the fan blades. Go around the crankcase pulley and the camshaft pulley, go under the tensioner pulley, over the AC compressor pulley, under the idler pulley, and back over the crankcase pulley. You'll need a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to adjust the tensioner.
get a new belt. loosen your belt tensioner. take off the old belt. look under your hood or on your radiator support for the diagram that shows how the belt runs from pulley to pulley. tighten the tensioner. then...good to go.
No diagram, but suggestion: Belt SHOULD go around the crank pulley (lowest pulley), then A/C pulley, then under tensioner pulley, and then around alternator pulley. When you "tighten" (screw in) the tensioner pulley adjuster bolt, it loosens, as the pulley comes toward your wrench and AWAY from the belt. So, to tighten the belt, you UNSCREW the tensioner pulley adjuster bolt, which pushes the pulley against the belt until it's tight. Be sure when adjusting the belt to loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pulley, and the alternator pivot bolt and lock-down bolt...just a little bit. If not, the adjuster bolt can get bent trying to move against the strain. I replace one recently and they aren't cheap for their size! Good luck
go to http;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/chevrolet s-10
A place to start when dealing with dryer belts and understanding how they work is that they have to go around the drum of the dryer and around the pulley of the motor. The only additional thing the belt comes into contact with is a spring-loaded tensioner. The belt does not actually go around the tensioner, but rather is pushed "in" by it.
That tensioner pulley will not go loose do it it being Spring loaded. DO NOT attempt to disassemble it, the spring is under a huge amount of pressure. The best way is to go to your local autoparts store and rent or buy a "Serpentine Belt Removal Tool" It will attach to the tensioner and give you the best leverage on it.