I'd say not.
I've never really done engine replacements, but from my experiences with removing gearboxes, to unbolt, secure, and then remove an engine from a gearbox, leaving the box where it is would be difficult. It would be easier, and quicker to drop it down in one piece.
can't be done without dropping subframe
There are many ways to remove an engine some come out through the top, some from the bottom, some with the gearbox attached, and some split from the gearbox. Quoting a specific make and model would get you a more detailed answer
No. You can remove the clutch and gearbox with the engine in-situ.
I don't know for this specific car, but as in most cases the engine or gearbox/transfer case has to come out. If you have access to a lift its easier to remove the gearbox and transfercase as a unit. The clutch lies just rear of the engine.
Undo the engine mounts and gearbox bolts, remove radiator and grill, chain engine upto tree (make sure to leave about 10 meters slack so you get time to getup speed), start car in reverse and floor it. wallah engine on the ground.
hi Ive just done it, the only way to remove the gearbox is to drop the engine and gearbox (on trolley jacks ) then separate them then eazy job to replace the clutch , trying to leave the engine in situe was an impossible task, good luck,
This is not a job for the faint hearted and it is recommended to use a car lift. Firstly, disconnect the battery and drain the oil from the automatic gearbox. Inside car, remove the radio console and then the centre console to obtain access to the gearlever mechanism, which has to be disconnected.Mark the propshaft in relation to the diff flange prior to removal and ensure it goes back in the same position (it will vibrate like hell if it is not). remove exhausts downpipes and centre sections (may have catalystic converter fitted so sensors will need to be removed from them as well). Remove starter. Remove lower engine plate (bolts onto gearbox bell housing).remove bolts holding the torque converter to the starter ring plate. Disconnect wiring looms and speed sensor connections from box. Remove lower gearbox to engine fixing bolts. You are now ready to remove the bolts from the cross member that retains the box to the underside. Support the gearbox and remove these bolts. Gently lower the box to gain access to the bolts at the top of the gearbox bellhousing. One of them has an earth wire attached. Ensure that this is reconnected when refitting. You are now ready to remove the gearbox and the torque converter together, which will still be full of oil, so will be messy when seperated.
With Your Hands :D
no,not really
In general terms follow these steps; 1) remove drive shaft/s between gearbox and final drive assy 2) Remove gearbox and bellhousing from engine. 3) Remove pressure plate from flywheel, friction plate will also come free. 4) Replace pressure plate, friction plate, spigot brg, throw out bearing. 5) Align friction plate with spigot bearing with dummy input shaft. 6) Replace gearbox and drive shaft/s
The clutch assembly is bolted to the engine flywheel and is sandwiched between the engine and gearbox so you'll need to separate the two to gain access. It's actually separating them that is the bulk of the job as unbolting the clutch assembly and bolting on a new one is a quick and easy job. I won't go into lots of detail as the exact procedure varies between makes and models, but generally it goes something like this: 1) Disconnect battery and reverse light switch wiring from gearbox 2) Slacken and disconnect clutch cable from the release arm, or if hydraulically operated, unbolt the slave cylinder and tie up out of the way 3) Remove stuff in the engine bay so you've got access around the front, top and back of gearbox (e.g. battery tray, air filter housing, etc.) 4) Slacken wheel nuts on both front wheels, chock rear wheels and jack up the front end of the car. Remove both front wheels. 5) Remove split pin (if fitted) and undo bottom balljoint nut from lower suspension arm/hub carrier assembly on both sides. Separate arm from hub carrier assembly so that it can swing outwards, limited by position of the steering linkage 6) Drain gear oil from gearbox and then lever the inner CV joints out of the gearbox. It's important that after removing one CV joint you insert something like a broom handle or offcut of plastic piping into the differential pinion before removing the CV joint on the other side otherwise the pinions can fall into the gearbox requiring it to be dismantled to retrieve!!! The broom handle/piping keeps the pinions in place so make sure it doesn't come out 7) Put a clean plastic carrier bag over the splined end of each CV joint and secure with an elastic band so that it doesn't get dirt/grit stuck to it. Tie up out of the way of the gearbox and so that the driveshafts aren't straining the outer CV joints. 8) Disconnect the gear selector linkage (several types used so refer to your workshop manual for specific instructions) 9) Place a block of wood under the gearbox end of the engine's sump (oil pan) and jack under the wood to just take the weight of the engine 10) Disconnect wiring from the starter motor and then unbolt and remove. A few cars do not need this to be removed to detach the gearbox but is most cases it needs to come off 11) Slacken all the bolts holding the gearbox bell-housing to the engine block. Remove any flywheel cover plates that may be fitted to the engine block (usually underneath and possibly on the rear) 12) Remove any mountings securing the gearbox to the body. If there's a cross member beneath the gearbox/engine then this may need to be removed too. There may also be a mounting on the rear of the engine to the bulkhead - this can be left alone if it isn't attached to the gearbox. AT THIS POINT THE ENGINE IS SUPPORTED SOLELY BY THE JACK/WOOD AND PROBABLY ONE MOUNTING SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISTURB THE JACK OR ALLOW THE ENGINE TO ROLL OFF IT 13) The gearbox should now only be supported by the bolts and dowels holding it to the engine block. Place another jack under the gearbox and raise so that it takes the weight of the gearbox without lifting it or the engine. 14) Remove all the bolts from the bell-housing to engine block. Pull the gearbox away from the engine block so that there is clear gap between the two. It may be necessary to remove plastic shields or other bracketry to give room for the gearbox to move away from the engine. 15) Lower the gearbox under the car, being careful that it doesn't roll off the jack and that the engine is still held in position by it's jack and any mounting left attached. You can now replace the clutch assembly (don't forget the release bearing attached to the release arm of the gearbox!) and refit. Don't forget to refill the gearbox with the correct grade oil once the job is completed and the car is back on all four wheels.
if don't no how don't try it