ENGINE DAMAGE.***
PROCEDURE, HOWEVER, YOU SHOULD CONSULT A PROPER REPAIR MANUAL FOR GUIDANCE AND OR VERIFICATION.
FIND **TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) (**crucial step) FOR CYLINDER #1; CONSULT A PROPER REPAIR MANUAL OR Ford MOTOR CO..
DISCONNECT BATTERY TO PREVENT MOVEMENT OF THE TOP DEAD CTR POSITION.
CLEAN THE BASE AROUND THE DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT TO PREVENT DEBRIS FROM FALLING INTO ENGINE.
REMOVE THE BOLT AT THE BASE OF THE SHAFT, IT USUALLY HOLDS A THICK WEIRD LOOKING EGG SHAPED WASHER TO THE BLOCK. **if you dont mark the shaft to block, the engine will have to be timed.
YOU MUST THEN SLOWLY REMOVE THE ENTIRE DISTRIBUTOR, NOT JUST THE CAP.
ONCE THE SHAFT IS OUT, LAY IT DOWN ON A SOFT SURFACE, LIKE A TOWEL, TO PREVENT DAMAGE.
INSPECT DISTRIBUTOR GEAR AT END AND OTHER PARTS FOR WEAR, AND REPLACE ONLY IF NECESSARY.
REMOVE OLD MODULE; IF ITS MOTORCRAFT, ITS USUALLY GREY.
CLEAN MOUNTING PLATE, IT MAY HAVE TO BE CLEANED GENTLY WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL AND A COTTON BALL TO REMOVE ANY DIELECTRIC GREASE THAT MAY REMAIN. ***DO NOT USE A SCRAPING TOOL OF ANY KIND OF THE MODULE OR MOUNTING PLATE!***
LET THE DISTRIBUTOR DRY COMPLETELY.
THERE IS USUALLY A SMALL TUBE OF DIELECTRIC GREASE WITH THE NEW MODULE WHICH MUST BE USED. IF NOT INCLUDED, YOU MUST BUY A TUBE OF DIELECTRIC GREASE. ***THE MODULE MUST NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE REPLACED WITHOUT THE GREASE!***
GENEROUSLY APPLY SAID GREASE TO THE NOW SHINY PART OF THE MODULE MOUNTING PLATE.
MAKE SURE THE NEW MODULE IS CLEAN, THEN MOUNT MODULE TO MOUNTING PLATE ON DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS!
CLEAN OFF ANY RESIDUAL GREASE FROM SURROUNDING AREA.
CAREFULLY REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT.
REALIGN THE MARK YOU MADE EARLIER ON THE DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT TO THE MARK ON THE ENGINE BLOCK.
REPLACE THE WASHER THEN THE BOLT AND TIGHTEN TO SPECS.
RECONNECT THE MODULE HARNESS THEN THE BATTERY CABLE AND START THE CAR.
GOOD LUCK!
first of all you have to lower your stering collum this will take some patiants there are to bolts direckly under the dash inline with the collum lower the collum to the seat you will se a small rod that moves with your key follow it down the collum were you will find the ignition switch unplug the wire harnice chang the swith by removeing the 2 small bolts when putting the new one in be sure to line up the rod in the hole on the new switch replug wire hrnace put colum back in place and start em up.
On the steering column, underneath the key cylinder is a small spring-loaded metal button. This is the retaining latch. a small Phillips screwdriver or other metal object is used to press in this button and release the cylinder. The cylinder will then slide out. There is usually a single wire connection for the key reminder buzzer. Disconnect this and the cylinder can be removed. Replacement cost at AutoZone is approx. $20. The new part goes back in reverse order(reconnect wire,slide cylinder in till latch engages).
Regarding a model 1997,2 liter sonata, there is not an ignition control module as such. Ignition control comes from the ECM (ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT) through the Ignition Power Transistor (often called Igniter) and then to the Ignition coil.I do not have any information on the 1.8 or the 3.0 liter models.
In the distributor, buy a new one and read the instructions
On the bottom side of the engine( front of the car) just below the exhause manifold. It is easiest to remove the mounting plate from the body of the engine, as balancing the coils on the module as you remove and insert screws if a real pain in the but. If anyone has any suggestions on waterproofing this area, I would greatly appreciate it, as I have gone through three of these modules in three years due to water getting into it and shorting the module out. This last time it was a coolant leak around a seal on the top of the water pump, spraying right into the module that caused it. Argh!
The 1996 Ford E2 50 power control module can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The power control module will be above the accelerator pedal.
The ignition control module is located within the distributor housing, so you need to remove the distributor, which is held in by two bolts, remember to slack off the valve cover bolts around the distributor, this facilitates the removal process, don't worry about the valve cover gasket it's an o-ring type gasket so it will reseal itself when you tighten the valve cover bolts .
The engine computer is the ignition module.
there is no ignition control module on the 1996 model its all through the PCM
na/
Autozone
Ignition what? Switch? Coil?
That engine does not have a cam sensor. It still has a distributor. If the engine is not firing then I would replace the ignition module that's in the distributor under the cap.
Remove the 3 coils which are help on by 2 5.5 mm bolts each. The module is now free. Remove electrical connector from ignition module. - Tech JK -----------------------------------
If this is the 4.3 engine, it is located on the bracket next to the ignition coil.
Replace the ignition lock cylinder.
The Ignition Control Module on a 1996 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 is located inside the EFI or Electronic Fuel Injector. The EFI is the carburetor. Look for a cord that has a connector that resembles an HD Cable.
The ignition module is located under the three ignition coils. The same bolts that hold the coils in place also retain the module to the mounting bracket. To find the coils, follow the ignition wires from the front of the engine to where they attach at the rear. The wires clip to the coils.
incorparated in the pcm