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As an ocean wave approaches the shallow water near a shoreline, it begins to lose energy because of friction with the ocean bottom. This causes the wave to slow down. As the wave becomes shallower, incoming wave crests gradually catch up with the slower wave crests ahead resulting in a wavelength that decreases from crest-to-crest. The incoming wave becomes higher, steeper, and unstable, and their crests collapse forward. Breakers, as seen in the picture, are collapsing waves. The motion of wave crests also influences the formation of a breaker. Breakers are less affected by friction than wave troughs and thus overrun the troughs. The collapsing crests of breakers moving at high speeds toward shore play a major role in shaping shorelines.

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Q: What is a breaker in the ocean?
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