"Plum" is the term usually used to describe faded blue. Or, it could have a "case-colored" receiver. This finish is a heat-treatment that leaves a varigated pattern of blues, reds, and violets. If you will give the serial number, we could check the manufacture date - 4, 40, 400, 4000, and 40,000 would all be pre-1899 antiques. 400,000 - 499,999 were made from 1906 to 1908, and those above 4,000,000 not until 1971 and later. If the seller is asking only $320, it is probably one of the newer ones and is valued as a shooter, not a collectable. Several factors...original chemistry of the bluing, Metallurgy, chemistry of solvents and cleaners used over the years, exposure to certain environments, possibility it was re-blued by an owner who "wanted" it plum flavored. In my experience the primary cause of why some guns turn plum/brown "naturally" has to do with letting the original finish remain unprotected for long periods of time in a dry-ish climate exposed to an atmosphere containing high levels of sulfur, wood smoke, and some trace metals. For example, from coal-fired power plants, oil refineries, steel mills, camp fires, etc. Essentially what you are seeing is slow and mild corrosion and (usually) a pleasing-to-the-eye form of rust. Sometimes, however, it is NOT pleasing. Also there are a variety of ways to artificially (chemically) plum-blue steel, and of course some commercial preparations sold for this purpose. Usually when i find a plum colored Winchester 94 receiver, i am told that the original finish was worn off and someone attempted to reblue it. Unfortunately through a certain serial number range, a process of iron plating was used and then blued with conventional blueing. When the old finish is polished off, the iron plating goes with it. No one uses iron plating any more. When blueing is attempted on these receivers, a purpleish plum color is generally found....
Depends on the store, make, model, and % tint. For FullDarkest Legal I would expect to pay around $150-250.
RIT dye
I would as I would not want to receive a ticket. Also there is a safety hazard with too dark tint especially at night. I never tint darker than what the law allows.
Do an Internet search for Winchester Stock Oil by John Kay. He was a master restorer of old Winchesters and developed a finish like Winchester used before the 1940s. It is 100% linseed oil based, as were the original finishes, with a tint to give the Red-Brown Winchester color.
No, tint cannot be removed from polycarbonate lenses as the tint is embedded in the material during the manufacturing process. If you want to change the tint of the lenses, you would need to replace them with new tinted lenses.
It can be done. The manufacturers, however, do not recommend putting film on top of film. The adhesion is not as good as that of film to glass. It would have a much greater chance of peeling off, and tint shops will not warranty this type of tint.
It can be done. The manufacturers, however, do not recommend putting film on top of film. The adhesion is not as good as that of film to glass. It would have a much greater chance of peeling off, and tint shops will not warranty this type of tint.
To create a tint of a color, you can simply add white to the original color. The more white you add, the lighter the tint will become. Mixing the original color with increasing amounts of white will help you achieve the desired tint.
It should not take any more than 30 mins to an hour for tint spray to dry. However, it would depend on the tint type, the application techniques and the number of layers.Ê
They would be the answerd when you read
a tint is a colour
Any electrical savings through the use of window privacy tint would be very minimal. Such tint would not have any affect on the draftiness of windows. In fact, it may even necessitate turning your lights on earlier due to less sunlight getting in.