Concrete "Cures" instead of drying! In most cases a specification will call for 28 days as a Cure Period. During this cure time the intent is to maintain water inside the mix to allow for complete hydration of the key ingredient: Portland Cement! Complete hydration will result in the compressive strength achieving the mix design specifications. A mix for a home floor slab will be around 3-4,000 psi, where an industrial floor may be 8-10,000 psi.
Curing membranes, evaporation retarders and wet curing blankets are all used to keep the surface of a concrete from allowing evaporation of the mix water out of the matrix. Premature evaporation of mix water causes shrinkage cracks and curling, that can ruin a slab.
Consider use of a penetrating sealer as soon as possible after the finishing operation is completed. "Thumb Print Hard" is a rule of thumb for time. Temperature, humidity and wind speed [all affecting evaporation] may come into play, but generally speaking, as soon as possible. Use a sealer that doesn't form a film on the surface but rather wicks inside to form a solid inside the gel-pore/capillary system. This prevents evaporation, allows for complete hydration and curing without applying some compound that will have to be removed at a later date. The sealer should also warrant waterproofing of the slab and no adhesion problems of your tile set bond material. I use such a sealer that allows for painting or tile setting 48 hours after its application!
This procedure will allow for a tile set or coating to be applied in about three days after your concrete was poured. This also prevents internal chemistry of the concrete from migrating up and out to the surfaces, where it can cause "Alkali Burn" of a coating or a dis-bond of a thin set material. Check with the specifier on your project to get a buy in on this product and procedure !! You may have to educate him ?? Otherwise you can waste 28 days waiting for the "Normal Time Period" and still have vapor emission problems with your slab because the gel-pores are still open and the slab was not waterproofed!
Imediatly after trowling
probably about 30-50 years
Hospitals, universities, and other large commercial buildings often have concrete floors throughout the building, so there's nothing stopping you as long as the structure itself is strong enough to support the additional weight. Be sure and check your local code enforcement office before buying any materials.
depends on the thickness and the water content, 3-4 days is safe for all
First of all, concrete does not "dry" to become hard. It cures, which is a chemical interaction between its water and its portland cement. Usually, a couple of hours is plenty of time for concrete to 'set' enough to not be damaged by rain. The best and strongest concrete never dries out for the first 28 days from pouring it.
5 hours And U have to eat HOney
If you're dealing with a new slab, you must wait a minimum of 28 days, preferably two months, for the floor to cure and dry thoroughly before applying a garage floor coating.
Paint remover. It may not be necessary to remove the paint as long as it is in decent shape, non flaking or peeling.
7 to 10 days.Method of testing:Duct tape plastic film to a 12"x12" place on the floor and if the plastic does not have any condensation and the concrete does not appear darker there after 24 hours, the concrete is dry enough. You can over spray it (seal it up), next day put flooring down.
how long does it take for bituman to dry outside
Imediatly after trowling
Yes you can if the existing coating is not peeling and adhered well to the concrete. You will need to sand the entire floor with 220 grit sandpaper and remove the dust before recoating. Make sure any oil or grease spots are removed as well.
ideally 28 days
you would need 37.33 yards of concrete or 38 to be safe
127 hours
probably about 30-50 years
You can use untreated as long as you have a treated sill plate. Untreated wood should not touch the concrete.