Go to Smith and Wesson's website and request a manual. It's free.
The instruction manual from S&W that is provided with a gun is not a good reference for taking apart a 3rd gen pistol, especially if you want to go beyond the most basic form of disassembly called field stripping.
However... the 3rd gen pistol is not something to be messed around with unless you really know how the internal lockwork functions. It is one of the most complicated in terms of gun timing and relationship of parts.
Having said that... there are various videos on YouTube that are quite good for learning how to take down a 3rd generation S&W pistol.
You can also get information by joining one of the Smith & Wesson internet forums, the best one known, with the largest membership is smith-wessonforum.com
The Wesson part of Smith and Wesson.
S was not part of the Model 36 sn convention.
Aftermarket part
The condition of the gun plays a major part. For this shotgun, in 95% condition, the average is around $350.
The value of a 32.20 Smith and Wesson 1914 revolver 6 shot with a sawed off barrel depends on the condition and the model number. Model from this year are valued between 400.00 and 650.00 but the sawed off barrel greatly reduces value.
Not a user-serviceable part. You need to see a gunsmith.
That was part of a special run of adjustable sight Model 60 revolvers made in 1986 (adj sights were not cataloged on this model until the Model 60-10 in 1996). Value in excellent condition would be around $400.
Part of the serial number. CHeck the butt.
The 469 is very similar to the 59, 459, and 669. Gun Digest publishes an excellent series on Firearms Assembly and Disassembly and the Part 1 Automaic Pistols volume includes excellent instructions on disassembly of the model 59 series.
Not all revolvers HAVE a model number- and those that DO do not have it marked on all revolvers. For NEWER Smith & Wesson revolvers, open the cylinder, and look on the part of the frame that is covered by the crane (crane connects the cylinder to the frame) You might see something like 10-5, indicating a Model 10, 5th change. But not all S&Ws had a model number.
Well, the 32 CTG marking is the caliber- indicating 32 cartridge- but there were several different .32 cartridges- .32 S&W, .32 Long, and .32 WCF (Winchester Center fire, aka the 32-20). Step 1- be sure that your revolver IS a Smith and Wesson. Many different makes are marked 32 S&W CTG to indicate the caliber. A true S&W will be marked in the side plates Smith & Wesson (spelled out) and Marcas Registradas (S&W had problems with Spanish Counterfeits) and the S&W logo. Next, S&W began numbering their models about 1948, and stamping the model number on the frame, under the cylinder crane (open cylinder, look on part of frame that was hidden). However, the early NAMED models were not marked. You would need to have a knowledgeable collector or dealer do a hands on appraisal, or hunt through the Blue Book of Gun Values, Gun Traders Guide, or any of the several Smith & Wesson references. Last- to be best of my knowledge, Winchester did not make barrels for Smith & Wesson.
S&W has made millions of .38 Special revolvers- none of them were a Model 367. Please repost with all markings on the gun, including any markings that are on the frame covered by the cylinder crane when the cylinder is closed.