I disagree with the part about the "feud" between Edison and Westinghouse. The feud was between Edison and Tesla and their financial backers JP Morgan and Westinghouse, respectively. Nicola Tesla once worked for Thomas Edison and when he began asking questions about alternating current, Edison did not take his theories seriously and fired him. Telsa spent a few years unemployed until he met Westinghouse who believed in Tesla's theories and began backing his expiriments financially. It was after Tesla's success in proving his theories that Edison became aware of the competition and instead of joining forces, decided to hold public demonstrations as scare tactics for turning the public against the high voltage needed for alternating current.
As the article states, direct current does not travel very far so a coal burning plant would be needed to create the steam needed to turn the generators for creating electric current. Tesla's alternating current was a much higher voltage which enabled it to travel greater distances without the need for as many coal burning plants.
Tesla believed he could send current into the atmosphere to be drawn by appliances and vehicles for free. He also wanted to generate enough power to destroy asteroids that orbited too close to the Earth. Tesla survived Westinghouse and turned to JP Morgan for financial backing in his later years. He spent his last few years of his life waiting for a call from JP Morgan that never came. He died 2 years before the end of World War II and his notebooks have been confiscated by the US government and have never been released. The Tesla/Westinghouse tower was dismantled in 1917 during World War I and several attempts have been made to restore the property. There are ongoing efforts to preserve the grounds and make a documentary to retell his story.
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The primary difference between 115V and 120V is their nominal voltage level. While both are standard voltages used in electrical systems, 120V is the more common and widely accepted standard in the United States. The slight variation in voltage does not significantly impact most devices designed to operate within a range of voltages.
In the unites states there is no difference. But the correct term would be 240 volt. Just as the case of 110 volt really is 120 volt. In older days the 110 & 220 Volt was the actual voltage which powered homes. Now the voltage is 120 & 240 volts and this is not exact. 120 volts will typically be measured at the breaker panel as 116-124 volts and 240 will be around 235-244 volts. This is because the more the load your electrical items put on your home's electrical system the more the voltage will sag. Power company substations will jack up their output to your neighborhood especially during the cooling season so voltage will tend to increase by a few volts or so.
Without wishing to be sarcastic, the obvious answer is 100 V, but I suspect this isn't what you are asking. You need to restate the question to make it more obvious what you mean.
Typical residential power in U.S.A. is characterized by the AC voltage, which ranges from 110 to 120 volts and 220 to 240 volts. Basically, the voltage in the street on a pole is a higher voltage that is stepped down for your house. Your house is on the secondary of the transformer. If you have above ground service you'll see three wires coming into house. One of these wires is common and the AC voltage between the common and either other wire is a nominal 120 VAC. The voltage across the other two wires is 240 volts.
Most homes are fed by the power company with 220 to 240 volts both referenced to a neutral. In the main panel you would usually have a black and red cable and a bare neutral. The voltage between red and black will be 220 to 240 VAC and the voltage from Neutral to either black or red will be 110 to 120 VAC.
If an appliance like an AC unit is rated for 115V but plugged into a 120V outlet, it may experience voltage fluctuations that can cause it to shut off frequently as a safety mechanism to prevent damage. This can lead to reduced efficiency and potential overheating of the appliance. It is recommended to use a voltage regulator or consult an electrician to ensure the appliance operates safely and efficiently at the correct voltage.
Yes, you can use a 15A, 115V light timer with a circuit that is rated at 20A, 120V. The light timer will only draw the current it needs, which is less than the maximum capacity of the circuit. Just ensure that the total load on the circuit does not exceed its rated capacity.
The two voltages are a nominal figure. The lower range of voltages can go from 110 to 120 volts. All equipment rated within the ranges from 110 to 120 volts are all compatible with each other. This ten volt range is brought about by the power company, as they have a responsibility to keep voltages within a certain 10% range. The load will only notice a difference of 1% on the load current. e.g. Wattage load of 2400. Amps = watts/volts. 2400/110V = 21 amps. 2400/120V = 20 amps. On a constant resistance as the voltage goes lower, the current goes higher and vice versa as the voltage goes higher, the current goes lower.
To calculate the size of the inverter needed, multiply the device's operating voltage (115V) by its current draw (3.0A) to get the power consumption in watts (115V * 3.0A = 345W). To be safe and accommodate any power surges, choose an inverter with a continuous power output of at least 400-500 watts.
To wire a 120V A base emitter for 120V, you would typically connect the emitter to the ground, the base to the input voltage source (120V), and the collector to the load. Ensure you follow proper safety precautions and consult the specific datasheet for the A base emitter you are using for correct wiring instructions.