Cut the pipe, clean it, and sweat in a coupler.
They make clamps with rubber seals in them to fix this, but it is only a band-aid solution. Use the clamp only until you can fix it correctly.
Fixing the pin hole is nothing; the cause is something else.
Copper pipe corrosion can be caused by many things and many people have had the electric power company, every electrician, water treatment company and plumber they could find try to solve their problem with no luck. It is not caused by defective pipes. The fact that you indicate that you indicate that you are using your home every few weeks may actually be aggravating the problem by not having a regular flushing of the pipes.
The known causes are: 1.) Water condition - PH, mineral content or lack of, dissolve gases, microorganisms etc. 2.) Excessive flux used in the soldering of the pipes. 3.) Water velocity in the pipes - Copper gets a thin green coating this actually inhibits further corrosion. If the velocity of the water is too high due to undersized pipes being used the green coating may be eroded causing further corrosion. 4.) Electrolysis - you are correct in assuming that the stray millivolts may have something to do with your problem. Stray voltages may be from improper grounding, of electrical, cable tv, phone. Or, leakages of current from water heaters, circulator pumps, well water pumps, boilers etc. 5.) dissimilar metals used on the piping or in contact with piping can also be a problem we all have seen where a lazy hack has used steel strap to hang a copper pipe or used a black iron nipple because he was to lazy to head for the supply house when he was 1 short for the job.
Treatments out there include: Sacrificial Anodes for underground copper pipes. Epoxy coatings inside the pipe (I'm a skeptic on that one). Finding the right water treatment for your water (Do have it tested). Finding something electrically to cure your problem Repiping the house with a pipe such as Pex tubing.
So the wife calls me this afternoon at work and says there's a water spot on the ceiling downstairs in my split foyer house. After work, I come home and knock a hole in the ceiling, and find that a 1/2" copper pipe supplying cold water to the upstairs has cracked on the inside of an elbow joint, and the hot water line is damp and sticky but not dripping yet. I Google, and decide to head to Lowe's to see whether I can use epoxy putty, or I should replace the elbow joints entirely.
I get to Lowe's, open an epoxy putty tube and read the documentation. It claims to result in a sandable, drillable, hard-as-steel patch, but warns against using it on pressurized lines. Sounds dubious. The Plumbing hardware specialist agrees with me. It might be an acceptable risk if I were patching a pipe, say, in the garage, where the pipe is exposed and I can see whether further repair is needed in a year or two.
I tell her I'd rather fix it right if it's going to be covered by drywall again, but I'm hesitant to stick a butane torch between the ceiling and floor. After all, setting my house on fire somewhat defeats the purpose of fixing a leaking pipe.
So she suggests that I try a new gizmo they recently started stocking, called a GatorBITE. She says professional plumbers rave about it. It's basically a copper elbow (I guess they have straight couplers as well, but I didn't really look), that has teeth inside that allow copper pipe to be crammed in, but not slip back out without some sort of removal tool. The GatorBITE was somewhere between 6 and 7 bucks. I got two + a pipe cutter for 20 bucks with tax. No solder and no torch needed.
I bring them home, spend about 10 minutes contorting myself and cut out the damaged joint in the cold water line. The next 60 seconds are devoted to cramming the ends of the pipe into this GatorBITE. It's mind-numbingly easy -- too easy. I tell my wife there's no way this'll work.
However, I turn the main back on, all the fawcets in the house are already on full blast, yet the seams around the GatorBITE stay dry as a bone. I'mma install the second one on the hot water line in a couple of days after I'm convinced the first was not too good to be true. I'll leave the ceiling open for a month or two with a bucket underneath and keep checking for drips. From what I've seen tonight, though, the GatorBITE is a viable solution.
One way to repair a pinhole in a copper pipe is to clean the area around the hole, then apply a two-part epoxy or solder a patch over the hole. Another method is to use a pipe repair clamp or a compression coupling to seal the leak. Be sure to follow safety precautions when working with copper pipes, such as turning off the water supply before starting the repair.
no
Yes, a hole in one supersedes closest to the pin as it is a rare and impressive achievement in golf that trumps other scoring criteria.
The small pin hole in the first molar is the natural opening of the tooth's root canal, called the apex. This opening allows for nerves and blood vessels to enter the tooth to supply nutrients. It is a normal part of tooth anatomy and does not indicate any problem.
Styrofoam is a lightweight material made up of trapped air bubbles that prevent water from easily leaking through. When a pin is inserted into a styrofojson templateam cup, the air bubbles create a seal around the hole, preventing the water from leaking out.
The earthing hole in a socket is typically larger to accommodate the larger earth pin of a plug. The earth pin is designed to be longer and thicker to ensure a secure connection and proper grounding of the electrical device for safety. The larger size helps to prevent accidental disconnection and ensures a proper earth connection.
Yes, eventually a pin hole in pipe will cause a leak.
It's old fashioned, prone to pin hole leaks, hard to join and repair in walls and expensive compared to modern pipe like PEX . Traditional plumbers copper because it's very labour intensive.
It depends on the condition of the pipe. Corrosion could cause a leak.
Car radiator I assume? Older ones can be soldered as you would a copper pipe. Newer ones you can use stop leak that you put into the radiator. For a pin hole that usually works. I would use either Silversolder, comes in a tube and is a silver or copper colored powder or Liquid Glas that has a lot of suppliers. Comes in a bottle or can and separates out on the shelf to a clear liquid with copper in the bottom. Follow the instructions and this will fix almost any leak in the system even a head gasket if it is leaking into the exhaust.
You could drain the line, sandcloth flux and solder it. Otherwise, see if you can get a compression fitting that would fit the copper tubing
This is hard to answer with out knowing what type of metal. what the pipe is being used for, the amount of pressure that may be not the pipe.
If copper, drain the water out of the pipe, clean the spot and solder over the hole. Steel, either replace a section of pipe, take apart and reassemble making sure the joints have enough dope or teflon tape on them to seal.
Re pipe in copper or replace the pipe with the hole in it. Chances are all the steel is gone so when you try to take apart the threads, they will just shear off. You might find yourself in a world of hurt. Good luck. You will need it!Depending where the pin hole is one can use a bronze rod and braze the hole . If you know how to weld then welding is the way to goOne does NOT just install copper without know the PH of the water, velocity etc.
Cut out the section with the pin hole and use a compression union
For a temporary repair, yes and use as directed.
yes, it really creates holes in copper pipe it can be clearly known here http://remodeling.homenlearn.com/prevent-pinhole-leaks-slab-leaks-conserve-energy-by-controlling-your-hot-water-circulating-pump/
I've done that with epoxy on a few occasions.