You'd need to branch the circuit before the switch. This can be immediately before the switch, in the box that holds the switch, but you can't get constant power from a switched circuit after its been switched.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
Yes. Even with no power to the light, there is still power to the switch. To power off the switch you usually need to open a circuit breaker.
The pilot light in a GFCI is an indication that the receptacle is hot, maybe they should add a red pilot light to indicate that no power is coming out of the outlet and green when power is available.
If the power feed goes directly to a fixture, or if you are wishing to switch a receptacle that is not now switched, you can us a 14-2 NM cable to install a "switch loop", provided the circuit is no larger than 15 amps. To do this, after running the 14-2 NM cable, connect the WHITE conductor of the 14-2 to the hot wire. At the switch, connect the black and white conductors to the switch terminals. At the fixture or receptacle, the black wire of the 14-2 NM cable now becomes your switch leg and is connected to the black conductor of the fixture or brass terminal of the receptacle. The NEC (for the United States) requires that the switch be fed with the white wire and the black wire be used as your switch leg.
no you have to improperly install it....... :P Shut off the power to the receptacle. Now remove the three black wires from one side of the old receptacle and twist them all together with your pliers. Make a short pigtail 6 inches long, same colour and wire size. Now twist this pigtail into the other three wires. Hold all four wires together with the appropriate size wire nut. Do the same with the white wires. Push all the wires into the back of the receptacle box. Connect the two pigtail wires to the new receptacle black wire to the brass coloured screw, white wire to the silver coloured screw. Screw the new receptacle back into the box, install cover plate, turn the power back on. Done deal.
Yes this is done all the time in house wiring. The power source is brought to a light switch's junction box. The source for the light is taken through the switch to turn the light off and on. The same source feeder is then taken to receptacle junction boxes to power devices that have to be plugged in.
Run a fused power line from the receptacle to either the battery for constant Hot or to the fuse box for an ignition controlled receptacle and ground the receptacle either by mounting on a metal surface or run a ground wire from the body of the receptacle to a good chasis ground
I can not understand your question.
Presuming the switch worked at one point and just stopped working it is likely that the switch has failed in a normally closed position. The only other possibility is that somehow you have a wire problem whereby the hot side of supply is connected to the load side of the switch. This could be caused by an exposed wire in the switch receptacle. Suggest you turn off power at breaker and replace switch as a start. When you have the switch removed from the receptacle, with wires still connected see if switch works. If it does it could still be bad, but examine the wires around switch and see if you have any exposed wire that could be touching the load side of the switch (Side connected to the light).
No the power comes from something other than the switch.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
Power is being interrupted; the turn signal switch is a power juction see if the power is flowing thru it.
YES, and the actual power is 117VAC not 120.
Yes. Even with no power to the light, there is still power to the switch. To power off the switch you usually need to open a circuit breaker.
The pilot light in a GFCI is an indication that the receptacle is hot, maybe they should add a red pilot light to indicate that no power is coming out of the outlet and green when power is available.
Re open the switch junction box after turning the power back off. If you can locate the wire that bring the voltage to the box make sure that this wire goes to the top of the switch. If it is tied into more black wires this could be receptacle circuits that are on all of the time. If this is the case, from this group add a pigtail from this group to the top of the switch. from the bottom of the switch find the wire that is going to the light. It is probably in the group that is tied together. Once found terminate this wire to the bottom of the switch. Put the breaker back on and try the switch.
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.