You can achieve constant power to a receptacle after a light switch by using a split receptacle wiring method. This involves breaking off the connecting tab on the hot side of the receptacle and connecting the upper half to the switch-controlled conductor and the lower half to the constant power conductor. This way, the top half will be controlled by the switch, while the bottom half will have constant power.
No, you need a minimum of two 14-2 wires to wire a light switch properly. One wire is needed for the power supply, and the other wire is needed to carry the switched power to the light fixture. Without two wires, you won't be able to complete the necessary connections for the light switch to work correctly.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
When the light switch is turned off, it breaks the circuit in the electrical line that feeds power to the electrical outlets. When the switch is turned on, it completes the circuit, allowing electricity to flow to the lights but not to the outlets. This wiring setup is a safety feature designed to prevent overload and potential hazards.
A split receptacle is a type of electrical outlet that has two separate power sources within the same outlet, allowing for the top and bottom halves of the receptacle to be powered independently. This is useful for plugging in two different devices that may require different power sources or switch-controlled operation.
The light intensity increases when you switch from low to high power, as more energy is being used to produce a brighter light.
Yes this is done all the time in house wiring. The power source is brought to a light switch's junction box. The source for the light is taken through the switch to turn the light off and on. The same source feeder is then taken to receptacle junction boxes to power devices that have to be plugged in.
Run a fused power line from the receptacle to either the battery for constant Hot or to the fuse box for an ignition controlled receptacle and ground the receptacle either by mounting on a metal surface or run a ground wire from the body of the receptacle to a good chasis ground
I can not understand your question.
No, you need a minimum of two 14-2 wires to wire a light switch properly. One wire is needed for the power supply, and the other wire is needed to carry the switched power to the light fixture. Without two wires, you won't be able to complete the necessary connections for the light switch to work correctly.
Presuming the switch worked at one point and just stopped working it is likely that the switch has failed in a normally closed position. The only other possibility is that somehow you have a wire problem whereby the hot side of supply is connected to the load side of the switch. This could be caused by an exposed wire in the switch receptacle. Suggest you turn off power at breaker and replace switch as a start. When you have the switch removed from the receptacle, with wires still connected see if switch works. If it does it could still be bad, but examine the wires around switch and see if you have any exposed wire that could be touching the load side of the switch (Side connected to the light).
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
No the power comes from something other than the switch.
Power is being interrupted; the turn signal switch is a power juction see if the power is flowing thru it.
YES, and the actual power is 117VAC not 120.
When the light switch is turned off, it breaks the circuit in the electrical line that feeds power to the electrical outlets. When the switch is turned on, it completes the circuit, allowing electricity to flow to the lights but not to the outlets. This wiring setup is a safety feature designed to prevent overload and potential hazards.
Re open the switch junction box after turning the power back off. If you can locate the wire that bring the voltage to the box make sure that this wire goes to the top of the switch. If it is tied into more black wires this could be receptacle circuits that are on all of the time. If this is the case, from this group add a pigtail from this group to the top of the switch. from the bottom of the switch find the wire that is going to the light. It is probably in the group that is tied together. Once found terminate this wire to the bottom of the switch. Put the breaker back on and try the switch.
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.