The Load wire is always hot (black or red wire) and the Line wire is the one that returns to your fusebox (usually white).
Answer above is absolutely wrong written by someone who does not know electricity and will get you electrocuted. The white wire is your neutral wire. The black or red coming from the electrical panel is the line wire. the black or red wire going to the next outlet or light fixture is your load wire. in some cases a white wire will be a line or load and should be indicated with black tape on it denoting it is not a neutral. quick recap is Line = power in, load = power out.
Selena Gomez hot line is 0
Don't know the color of the wire but you will just have to use a test light to see what wire is hot to the radio.
Go to Public Library and request GM Electrical Shop Manual for 1991 Park Avenue -- librarian will help you locate it. Has complete diagrams and dianostics. Might want to check Fuses #12 (20 amp) and #7 (25 amp) Too involved for detailed explanation, but there are 3 components: the compressor, the load sensor (at right rear spring), and a relay (in the RELAY_CONTROL_CENTER (behind the glove box). The YELLOW wire from the sensor pulls the relay which applies power to the compressor thru the BLK/LT GRN wire at the compressor's connector. The BLK wire at the compressor's connector is the GRD., the BLK/PPL is always HOT (thru fuse 12), and the WHT wire (when grounded) releases the pressure in the system.
the answer is YES, use a test light to find the + and - wires (should be one ground wire and two hot wires [one hot all the time for your clock & one hot only when the key is on]) in order to find which speaker is which, use a 1.5 volt battery to make a popping sound in the speaker (won't hurt the speaker) and then the solid color wire will be your positive & the wire with the stripe will be your speaker ground.
My Favorite Place to visit is Florida. It has the ocean and it is always hot.
The line wire will be hot and carrying power when the breaker is on. The load wire will not be hot and will have no voltage on it until it is connected with the line wire.
This is what the purpose of a switch is. It connects the "hot" wire to the load. When this is done the load becomes energized.
because its much safer to switch the hot wire then the neutral wire because if you are working on a light fixture for example and the switch is off if you ground yourself out to the neutral you become the load or return. a neutral shock can me more dangerous at times
Amperage is always measured with the guage in series with the hot wire. That is the one wire is cut and the guage goes in line as opposed to some devices which have a hot and neutral (or ground).
The line side is where the source of the voltage is connected. The load side is where the device being switched is attached. In the case of a light switch the line side would connect to the house power and the load side would be the bulb. The switch is usually inserted in the line carrying the load (or black wires). As it it common to use 12-2 wiring to run from the device being switched to a switch on the wall, the return wire can be colored white. A electrician places an identification on the wire to signal that it is a "hot wire" even though it is white. Typically the electrician will wrap the white wire with black tape for about 1 inch to indicate this. A white wire is normally considered to be neutral if it is not identified as a "hot or load wire".
In household wiring it is the "hot" wire that carries current to the load.
Connect the black wire to the incoming hot wire and the red wire to the out going load.
A 12 gauge wire can support a load of approximately 2200 watts.
House wire is "line" Black & White house goes to Black & White of Timer; the "load" (e.g. Pond Pump, etc.) is connected to the Red & White. Specifically, put all 3 whites together (nut or terminal); House (source)(line) Black to Timer Black; and "load" Black to Timer Red. The Red wire is the "Timed" (switched) hot wire.
Black wire to gold screw, white wire to silver screw, ground to green screw. If you are using a GFIC outlet then the hot wires coming in hook to the Line side of the GFIC receptacle and the wires going out to other receptacles hook to the load side.
In the US , for example, the live wire changes from zero to +120 volts rms, then back to zero, then to -120 volts rms, then back to zero. It goes through that cycle 60 times every second. At all times throughout each cycle, the live wire "feeds" the current at the varying voltage and the neutral wire "returns" it to the power source.A neutral wire is always needed as the return path back to the power station for any single-phase circuit in which a single live wire feeds alternating current into the connected load.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Load (or hot wire, usually black or red), Neutral, (white), and ground,(green) wire.