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The first written record in Scotland dates from the 16th century and the first pictorial evidence of what we would recognise as a kilt turned up in the 17th century (Scottish mercenaries in Germany). There are records before this which are cited as proof of kilts but they turn out to be just descriptions of bare legged people usually wearing shirt and tunics similar to the Irish Leine which is not a kilt. The first kilts were a belted blanket of cloth, the great kilt, Plaid or Feileadh Mor. The little kilt which is just the lower half is now the norm (Philibeg), the upper half can still be worn in addition. The stitched pleating is a late 18th century invention. Kilts were briefly banned under the act of proscription from 1747-1782 in the Highlands following the battle of Culloden but were still allowed in the Lowlands and by the military. Originally just a Highland dress they became national dress in the 19th century following a revival. Made of tartan (known confusingly as plaid in the US which was the Great kilt itself not the material) which was originally tied into districts not clans and produced locally. The revival changed the use of tartan and tied it into specific clans, a function it never had historically.

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