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First, it's important to NOT use the ice until you get this problem cleared up.

Second, it sounds very much like you have a mold growing in the machinery or tubing that feeds water into the unit. I don't know anything about the machinery but it is extremely important to clean ALL tubing and surfaces-- OR to replace things like tubing because those are more difficult to clean on the inside.

Call the manufacturer or read the Owner Manual if you have one. You specifically need to know (1) what places or surfaces does the water pass through or over and (2) what parts can be removed, cleaned, and re-inserted.

Many people believe bleach is effective to clean mold. But, bleach just bleaches the color from the mold-- so there's still mold but you can't see it anymore.

Instead, items contaminated with mold should be washed in hot soapy water made with a good dish detergent. You can add bleach to the detergent water, but every item *must* be thoroughly scrubbed inside and out. Buy a baby-bottle brush to push into tubing and use a twisting motion to scrub the inside of every tube. Make sure to use a clean dish cloth to wash the items.

Run hot water through the tubes and let air dry-- do NOT re-insert while damp. Let all parts thoroughly dry - air dry. Then, wipe with a clean dish towel or plain white paper towel -- paper towels with patterns contain dyes which can leave a chemical smell or aftertaste to the ice.

You may need a service repair man / person to thoroughly clean the unit.

*If the unit is highly contaminated, it will be healthier to replace the unit.

Mold can cause all sorts of physical illnesses, and problems with concentration and memory. Mold CAN kill. You may be so used to the smell and taste that you may not notice it in the ice, except for the evidence of colored ice.

I must repeat-- do not use the ice until the unit is thoroughly checked and cleaned.

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Q: How do you stop icemaker from making green ice?
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How ice makers work?

The home icemaker's predecessor was the plastic ice tray. It's fairly obvious how this device works: You pour water into a mold, leave it in the freezer until it turns to a solid and then extract the ice cubes. An icemaker does exactly the same thing, but the process of pouring water and extracting cubes is fully automated. A home icemaker is an ice-cube assembly line. Most icemakers use an electric motor, an electrically operated water valve and an electrical heating unit. To provide power to all these elements, you have to hook the icemaker up to the electrical circuit powering your refrigerator. You also have to hook the icemaker up to the Plumbing line in your house, to provide fresh water for the ice cubes. The power line and the water-intake tube both run through a hole in the back of the freezer. When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches. In the diagram below, you can see how the icemaker moves through its cycle. * At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid, which opens the valve. * The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it. * Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself (see How Refrigerators Work for details). The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit (see How Home Thermostats Work for details on this operation). * Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface. The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit. * At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker. * The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin. This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines.