Yes, fix it to the studs, NOT the lath
Sand
Lath and plaster construction from the 1930s might contain asbestos, or it might not. It could have animal hair mixed into the plaster, instead. The only way to know whether a particular installation contains asbestos is to have a sample collected by a qualified technician and analysed by a qualified laboratory.
lath and mortar walls and ceilings have a greater flexibility than standard plaster. If you do plaster over it you firstly need to be very confident that the old mortar is sound and fully adhered to the lath. You would also have to seal the ceiling well to stop the water in the plaster from literally being sucked out of the plaster. Regarding tiles. If you are thing about ceramic tile then NO!. The weight of the tiles would pull the mortar from the lath with great ease. It is defiantly better to either plasterboard directly to the old ceiling and using dry wall screws NOT NAILS screw directly to the joist not the late you can then put a good scrim tale over the joints and plaster accordingly. The very best option however, is ...............drop the old ceiling, re-board and plaster
Squirt on vinegar and water (1:1 mix) with a squirtbottle and leave overnight.
A keyhole saw.
It is quicker and cheaper than lath and plaster, takes paint well, and can come in several finishes to resist moisture.
Lath and plaster is just an old type of wall finish. Like drywall is a wall finish. What the wall is constructed of underneath the lath and plaster and where it is placed in the building determine if it is load bearing or not. A lath and plaster wall could be load bearing or it might not be. IF it is an outside wall, it most certainly is load bearing. other than that, the best way to figure it out is to have a structural engineer tell you wether it is or not. Even if it is load bearing it may be possible to remove it if a beam is put up in place of the wall. Really, the best and safest way to decide is to have a engineer look at it.
chair legs and round surfaces such as table legs. round wooden surfaces
Before the advent of plaster board (sheetrock), plaster over wood lath was the most commonly used method for creating smooth interior wall surfaces. It normally involved a rough basecoat over the wood lath, and then a smooth, white finish coat to create the final surface. Since sheetrock has gained popularity, plaster has become less common. However, special sheetrock, called blueboard, as still sometimes used as a base for a finish coat of smooth white plaster. This is a high end treatment that creates a smooth, seamless, hard, and extremely durable wall surface. Applying the plaster in this way is a tricky process that is best left to professional plasterers.
Lath and Plaster was used in America up until the mid to late 1950's. In the UK, they started using pasterboard about 1945.
* Try to stick a push-pin or ice pick into it. Sheetrock/drywall is soft and the point should go in easily. Plaster is hard -- it will be hard to push the point in and the plaster will tend to crumble.* Go into the attic and look under the insulation. Drywall is smooth. Lath is very rough. It's applied to strips of wood with gaps between. The plaster is squished between the strips to form "keys" that hold the plaster to the wall. See links. * Remove an electrical outlet cover and look at the edges of the exposed wall. You may be able to see the ends of the lath strips.