You should be able to as long as the motherboard will support that many hard drives.
Findus Tesco Aldi Lidil so basicly lowend frozen products
Coach wallets--typically velcro and emblazoned with the insignia of the school that the Coach is from--tend to be slightly more low-end than branded wallets.
Personally, I associate them with Goodman. Junk. That`s probably unfair since I`ve never seen or owned one, but they are made by the same company and I`ve only worked on one Goodman for a friend and it was a POS. But no doubt it was the model they paid for (lowend) and that is my experience with them and you asked how people feel about them. So that is how I feel and why.
The Fletcher-Munsen curves are equal-loudness contours. Essentially, our ears adjust sensitivity to ranges in the audio spectrum depending upon the volume of the audio. The benefits of the Fletcher-Munsen curves include a better balance in mixing audio for music, film and other formats. The Fletcher-Munsen curves illustrate the differences in high end, midrange and lowend depending upon the dbSPL (decibel sound pressure level).
I think your question is which has more power roots supercharger or a centifugal supercharger. Both are superchargers. A roots type will have the same boost from 1000 rpm and up, the procharger gains boost with rpm so it won't have full boost till over 4000 rpm. both have a purpose. A turbocharger is superior to both. A roots and a procharger both use engine horsepower to turn, a turbocharger uses waste heat and the exhaust velocity to operate. the roots is better for lowend performance, the procharger is best for upper rpm performance. the turbocharger is more complicated but it beats both hands down when setup right with a innercooler.
There are several reasons. It could be low on refrigerant or the compressor is not comming on for some reason. It just has to be checked out. Good luck. Look under the hood, see if the belt to the AC compressor is still there. If it is then take the cap off of the lowend line ond tap the button inside with a screw driver to see if there is any refrigrant in the lines. if there is any, then the system just might need to be charged. If there isn't any, then it leaked out somewhere. it could be a big hole if you hit something on the highway like i did, or it could be a pinhole that might be repairable by a AC Stopleak that you can probably by at AutoZone, depends on what stat your in. Good luck, .
Yes, but it depends on what you mean by regular. Most plain headphone/mic combos have no built in amplification so sounds are very quiet. Good gaming headsets can use the xboxes usb ports to amplify the signal giving you much better sound. Pay 20$ and get the very lowend turtle beaches. Even these are better.
real personal thing for each drummer individually but here are my points on that. Almost every drummer cranks springs on their pedals so that's the major factor in playing fast double bass.Just from the physics standpoint it's easier to hit the surface when the rebound from spring is there. Also your technique(lifting whole leg/playing using only ankles or combination of both), basshead tension(looser gives more lowend while reducing the response of your pedals/tighter obviously produces more rebound even with loose springs but also makes your bassdrum sound much higher and longer though this could be solved with few towels) and sitting position or your throne height affect the speed, power and thus the feel and settings of your pedal. Other bits include beater height and angle: in order to play loud you should put beaters relatively high and have them angled at 45 degree angle. From that point as you'll be playing you can twitch them up or down by your preferance. By the time your playing skills will improve, you'll figure out specific adjustments that'll be comfy.
First thing is an engine doesn't make HP, it makes torque. Horsepower is only a calculation of torque over time - (TQ xrpm)/5250. Torque is what gives you that push into the seat on acceleration, that "jump" when you tap the throttle. Torque is all about cylinder pressure and displacement. This is why larger engines and forced induction engines make the most torque. To increase horsepower, you need to increase one of three things: CYLINDER PRESSURE, RPMS or DISPLACEMENT. There are different ways to increase the horsepower of an engine. You can do one or more of the following, depending on where in the rpm range you want the extra power and the amount of money you want to spend. Stroker kits- are the only way to increase displacement, boring the cylinders only adds a few cubic inches and the other option is swapping to an engine with more cylinders. Stroker kits will add the most low-end power of any mod, save forced induction. It can be expensive in parts and labor especially if you also want to increase the rpm range of the engine. The length of the stroke has a direct bearing on the maximum safe engine speed, mainly due to piston speed and connecting rod/rod bolt strength. Rpms-If you are able to increase and/or maintain the torque curve to higher rpms the Horsepower will always increase as the revs climb. Without increasing displacement or boost, it is the only way to gain a significant amount of horsepower. There is a limit though, because the stress on the engine's internals increases 4x when the rpm doubles. An example: raising the redline on a v8 from say 5000rpms to 7500rpm, doubles the stress on the engine. Stronger /lighter / more expensive materials are need to deal with the tension loads on the connecting rods/pistons/rod bolts and stresses on the valvetrain. Pushrod engines are "generally" limited <6000-7000rpms and OHC 7000-9000rpms. Increasing the powerband range usually reduces low-end power. The exception is an engine with variable timing. On an engine without VVT, you compromise low-end power to gain top-end, it is like a see-saw when choosing intake manifolds, camshafts etc they usually favor a side. Durability and emissions are also compromised when increasing the power-band. Last modification is cylinder pressure, It can be increased with supercharger/ turbos / NOS or by increasing an engine VE (volumetric efficiency), how well an engine breathes. Turbos/superchargers/NOS all increase power by forcing more air into the engine, thereby increasing cylinder pressure. The screw/roots supercharger is mechanically driven and always forces the same amount of air/fuel into engine, at a given rpm. This can be a good thing if you want low rpm power due to the "instant" boost of a screw type or positive displacement blowers, plus it is easier to tune. It's the closest thing to dropping in a bigger engine. With say 8psi any engine will produce 50% more power or act like an engine 50% bigger than stock. The downside is they are bulky/expensive/ less efficient at higher rpms than centrifugal superchargers and turbos. Centrifugal superchargers have the efficiency off a turbo, but belt driven so it can make big top-end power. The down side is they give little or no increase to low-end power, the belts "will" slip/need servicing. An upside is the power is predictable and the units are smaller easier to fit than screw superchargers/blowers. Turbochargers provide boost only when it is needed and the engine can operate like a N/A (normally aspirated) engine when cruising around. Turbochargers will also give better fuel economy than superchargers on cars due to the fact that turbochargers are driven off the exhaust (don't use as much HP to be driven like a supercharger). They are not free, as many believe because they do cause a restriction/pumping loss, still 25hp is less than the 50-100 for a supercharger. With turbochargers available in different sizes the horsepower level available is only limited by where you want the power and how much you want to spend. They can be side for low end power, but more than often only give additional power above 3000rpms. The downsides to turbocharging are that there is turbo lag. Lag is a delay between when you floor it and when the turbos start to make boost. It can be small if the turbos are small or if you are at a higher rpm but there will always be some. Turbos are more complex/difficult to tune and usually more expensive than superchargers. Turbocharging like camshafts are selected by where and how much power you want for a given engine. An example: A factory turbo car, will have small turbos to reduce lag and improve lowend torque, but will be limited on the possible top-end power. Standard turbos require selecting a size that will flow enough air for a given engine at a given rpm. If big HP #s are wanted, the turbos will be laggier, produce less low-end power. Some vehicle have variable turbos that offer quick response and high HP with low backpressure, but are complex and are not used in aftermarket kits. NOS adds additional air into the engine through a chemical reaction. It is really only a viable option at the drag strip as a tank only last a few runs depending on the shot size. A typical 100hp "shot" will use up a 10lb tank in 9-10 runs. It isn't street legal in any state I know of and is only used at wide open throttle above a set rpm to prevent engine damage. It is also damaging to the engine/pistons when it doesn't operate correctly, sooner or later it always backfires. All bolt ons/modifications are done to increase the engine's efficiency (get more air in and out per revolution). Most people start with bolt ons as they are the cheapest modifications, but in general, the more pricey the mod the more you get. 1.cold air intakes- with a larger/low restriction filters is the Best bang for the buck(most gain per dollar). It should be the first modification one does. Only buy a kit that has the filter sealed off from under hood heat, not just a tube with a filter located near the radiator. A ram air setup or cowl induction/hood scoop that takes air from outside the engine bay are the best. The colder the air the entering the engine the more power you'll get. A general rule is, for every 10 degrees you lower the intake air temperature you gain 1% in horsepower. On a stock v8 you can see up to 10-20hp from one of these 5-7% increase. 2. Under drive pullies free up alot of hp and is probably the second "best bang for the buck" mods. You just need to make sure you don't get ones that under-drive the alternator if you daily drive it as it can cause charging issues. 3.For new cars, a programmer would be a good next step, if you tune it to run on premium fuel(91+) you can get a 5-7% increase in power. It can also adjust for different tire sizes, remove speed limiter, adjust rev limiters and in some cases increase fuel economy. 4.Cat-back exhausts are usually changed early by most people, but on a newer car it doesn't show much if any gains on a near stock engine. They usually only provide a different sound for the customer. The money would be better spent else where and a header and other parts should be installed before the cat-back setup. On a stock engine made after 2000 or so, a cat-back "generally" is worth 0-5hp while a header would be worth 5-10hp increase. On older cars the gains would be more significant and would be worthwhile earlier in the modification steps. Older systems are small by todays standards and almost always compression bent restricting air flow and a change will show more of a gain vs. stock than on newer cars. 5. Modern cars have good cylinder heads, so changing them isn't worth the cost until you are near 30% over stock hp. Higher flowing heads will 99% of the time reduce low end power and should only be done after/with camshafts, intakes and other mods. 6. hi-performance camshafts offer more, lift = more power throughout the powerband duration= can be shortened for more towing/ lowend power and economy or increased to move the powerband higher in the rpm range. Higher compression piston/with great valve clearance will be need on big camshafts. High compression pistons restore cranking pressure with larger camshafts but will require running high octane fuels. Lobe seperation angles= tigher angles (106-110)- can give that rumpety rump idle, old muscle cars had. It gives higher peak HP/TQ#s while building power quicker in a narrower powerband. A Narrower angle's downside is poorer idle quality and fuel economy. Wider lobe angles (114-116) allow for smoother idling and wider powerbands at the expense of slightly lower peak HP/TQ #s. Wider angles are need for fuel injected equipped cars than ones with a carburetor. Wider angles are also needed when running turbochargers as they prevent exhaust gas contaminating the intake charge. 7. (On pushrod engines) A cheaper alternative/addition to, a camshaft is to install higher lift Roller rocker. If the valvetrain has the proper springs and clearance, they offer additional lift(horsepower) and reduced friction. On a V8 they can add 10-20 more horsepower over a stock ratio on a stock camshaft equipped engine. 8. Aftermarket intakes are usually seperated in two categories: Single plane/short runner manifolds- allow more topend HP will a drop in lowend torque, usually more for racing and high rpm engines. Dual plane manifolds- like edelbrock rpm allow an increase in a more street oriented rpm range upto 6000- 6500rpm range. They "usually" only give up 10hp at the topend vs. a single but give you 20 lb/ft over the single in the lowend. 9. Larger throttle bodies will allow more air into the engine and give a HP increase but "usually" only after intake manifold and/or camshafts have already been installed. 10. Ingition sysems on newer cars don't usually need modification until the rpm is raise with camshafts,etc. or if the engine is boosted with a supercharger/turbo. Older vehicles <2000 can see idle/ hp/ fuel economy and emission improvements with the installation of aftermarket ignition systems. Depending of they vehicle you are working on some parts maybe plentiful and others will not but you need to be realistic in what you want/can expect. You also will need to keep in mind that transmissions, gears and fuel systems will also need to be modified if HP levels exceed what the stock equipment is rated for. Tires are also speed rated for saftey and should be changed accordingly.
The best installation contractor... You will be happier with a low end or mid range unit installed by a pro than if you and your brother in law or a bad contractor installed a top of the line 98% efficient Trane or Carrier unit. Just trying to illustrate a point here with the you and your brother in law example. Part of the process is shopping for the right contractor to do the work and be around for any warranty or out of warranty service issues. Once you find a contractor you are comfortable with, ask him to quote you one of his best units (all contractors usually rep a certain primary brand). You will find during your shopping that all manufacturers are buying their components from the same vendors: Honeywell and White Rogers for controls, Copeland and Tecumseh compressors, Sporlan and Alco refrigerant control valves etc. So all units except for the low end builders grade are pretty equal and the installation and service which is what the contractor provides will make the difference in your satisfaction over the next 20 or so years.
I guess Autozone's free check engine light check wasn't free. But it sure make a great guessing tool for them to sell parts! PO301 is the code your refering to. I would try a professional fuel injector cleaning. even if it doesn't solve you proiblem your at least getting somthing you need. You may have leaking injector orings or plugged injectors that are beyond cleaning. Bad Wires can also set this code. Actually, SAE code P-0301 is a cylinder #1 misfire. Multiple cylinder misfire is P-0300. Only the lowend scanners make this mistake. However, leaking fuel injectors may be causing this as well as worn plugs or wires. Also consider fuel age and quality. You can go to the same gas station several times in a row and get different qualitity gas each time. A DTC 301 set at high (over 4,000) RPM with no other obvious faults (i.e., good: plugs, wires, coils, ignition control module, fuel pressure, etc) may suggest a faulty PCM (powertrain control module). It appears that GM had a problem with PCM's for Bonnevilles that year. Incidentally, GM warrants PCM's for 8 years/80K miles. Does anyone have any insight into DTC 304 alternating with DTC 401 for a 1998 Bonneville VIN K - not supercharged)? All of the usual suspects (coils, module, plugs, wires, etc) check-out fine. The problem is intermittent, occurring without a predicatble pattern. Runs fine for awhile, then check engine light and occasionally flashing check engine light. No obvious harness problems visible. Dealership is totally useless with this one: car has 60K and terrific maintenance history. Help? This can be a challenging code to troubleshoot. My experience has lead to different conclusions. Like above, I have seen worn plugs, bad wires bad coil packs, bad ignition modules, bad ECMs, bad fuel injectors. Rarley a bad headgasket. The most common ones seem to be on the 3.1 engines. Take it to an independent repair shop and try a fuel injection cleaning. the fuel additives won't resolve it as they remove the waxes, but don't really clean the injectors. A professional cleaning involves disconnecting the fule pump and running the motor on this cleaner. I have seen it resolve PO300 codes, make cars run incredibly better or also do nothing.