The speaker you connect to those terminals needs to be 4 ohms or greater.
For an 8 ohm speaker, 8 ohms is perfect. "Good" and "bad" are relative to the application.
Yes, but you will only be able to produce 120 W of power before you overdrive the speaker.
A speaker is a device that converts varying electrical signals into varying acoustic signals so that you can hear them as sounds.An 8 ohm speaker is a speaker that has a nominal impedance of 8 ohms. This means that is presents a load of 8 ohms to the amplifier over the range of frequencies that it is designed for. You should match the impedance of the speaker to the designed impedance of the amplifier. Failure to do so will result in inability to achieve rated power output, and it could lead to amplifier and/or speaker failure.There are other factors involved as well, such as power capacity, shape, resonant frequency, and expected enclosure design. Speaker designers spend a lot of time and money on selecting a particular speaker, and you should not arbitrarily substitute one for another without adequate justification.
863,000 ohms.
If wired in parallel then 4 ohms.
The wattage and ohms of a speaker are not related; the resistance for speakers is usually 4 or 8 ohms.
The speaker you connect to those terminals needs to be 4 ohms or greater.
The nominal 8 inch speaker impedance can be 4 ohms, 8 ohms or 16 ohms. It depends on the make of the loudspeaker not on the 8 inches.
Nothing is better.
Ohms is a measure of resistance. When the electricity passes into the speaker, some of it is 'resisted.' The ohms rating of the speaker is how much is resisted, and an indication of how much energy it takes to drive it - the higher the ohms rating, the more difficult it is to drive.
The speaker will be fine and there will be little impact on its performance. In these situations, if there is a problem, it will be with the amp because that is what delivers the electrical current to the speaker. The situation you want to avoid is having speakers with a lower impedance connected to your amplifier. So you might have had a problem if your surround speakers were 4 ohms. However, as they have a higher impedance than the amp is set for, I wouldn't worry about it.
Study ohms law to get your head around it.
For an 8 ohm speaker, 8 ohms is perfect. "Good" and "bad" are relative to the application.
There is really no 3 ohms amplifier on the market with an output impedance of three ohms for power matching. You will find there 0.3 ohm or less for voltage bridging. Scroll down to related links and look at "Interconnection of two audio units - Power amplifier and passive loudspeaker".
Either 4 or 8 Ohms. It will be on the back of the speaker.
That's tricky given that a speaker with better sensitivity will be louder than a less sensitive one for the same power. An 8 ohms speaker with a sensitivity of 93db/W/m will be twice as loud as a 4 ohms speaker rated at 90db/w/m (both fed 1W of power, that's 2.83V for 8 ohms and 1.415V for 4 ohms). The net result is that for the same loudness the 8 ohms speaker will put less load on the stereo or amp.So for 93db/W/m, the 8 ohms speaker requires 2.83V, so draws 0.35A. The 4 ohms speaker will need 2.83V instead of 1.415V for the same loudness (it is 3dB less efficient). So it draws 0.7A at 2.83V. Thus the amp runs hotter.In summary car systems are designed for 4 ohms and speakers are quoted for loudness at 2.83V - that makes them appear louder than 8 ohms speakers. This is wrong since loudness is not measured with voltage but with watts. So whenever you see a 4 ohms driver quoted for 2.83V simply reduce 3dB from the loudness (SPL) value advertised to find its actual rating and then get the speaker that has the highest SPL rating that you can afford. That way you will get more loudness without having to turn up the volume knob all the way to max.