What caused the joist to break? If the damage was caused by a covered loss, then it will be covered. If you know the cause of the damage, review your policy to determine if the loss is covered. You can review the Perils Insured Against section of your policy to determine what losses are covered. If you do not know the cause of the loss you might want to retain an engineer to make that determination. Regarding the mold issue. Most policies cover mold up to a certain limit, usually $10,000.00. Call your agent or review the declarations page to determine the limits for mold.
Not knowing if the joist are in need of repair from rot (deterioration) or broken/damaged then replace ment of joist may be necessary. First get a replacement joist of the same or better species and treatment content and dimensions as the existing joist. Then cut the joist to the same length. You may have to cut a small angle on the bottom end of the joist to aid in working it over and between the girts and decking boards. Work the joist within a few inches of the joist to be replaced. Use a short 4x4 to drive the joist or a wood block to strike with a hammer. Take a couple of scrap 2x's and temporarily fasten to the girts and new joist to prevent movement. Then you may try a couple methods to remove the old joist. If the decking is fastened with screws then simply backout the screws. If it is nailed, then a 10 lbs. hammer can often remove most anything you need and is a great stress reliever but I recomend you use a reciprocating saw to cut the fasteners between the joist and decking. Usually the vibration of the saw and nails being cut will loosen the deck side of the fasteners and allow you to go top side and pull the old nail halves out. Once the old joist and fasteners are out you can carefully work the new joist in place. I recommend fastening the old decking to the new joist with properly coated screws or a hotdipped galvanized rink shank nail. Repeat joist replacement as necessary on other joist.
Floor joist or ceiling joist? Floor joist have a board on the end all the way along the side of the building called a rim joist. Like the cross bar on the top of a T. Ceiling joist are nailed down into the top plate of the wall and to the rafters where possible.
A joist is a beam, a supporting structure in a building. The roof joist was riddled with dry rot and had to be replaced.
it depen on the size of the joist
A 20 delta size nail should be used to attach the band joist to a joist when end nailing. A 16 D can also be used.
There are several ways, but probably the easiest way would be to temporarily buck under the afflicted ceiling joist with a 2x6 temporarily, until the joist is in line with the others. Then go into the attic and cut and attach a 2x6 to the joist and vertically to the roof ridge. Remove the buck. The joist should stay in place.
A joist note on a first floor plan would refer to the Joist below that floor, a joist note on the third floor plan woud be for that floor.
Joist = one of the parallel pieces of timber to which the boards of a ceiling or floor are fastened
No,if the joist is merely butted.The joists must sit on a bearer type of situation or have joist-hanger connectors.
A joist, either floor or ceiling are the boards that go across the building and tie the walls together. A timber joist would be a rough sawn beam. Basically a tree that has been squared up.
Drill a hole large enough and pull the cable through. The hole must be 1-1/2" from the edge of the joist to prevent nails or drywall screws from penetrating the cable. If the hole is less than this distance, a nail plate must be installed over the edge of the joist so when the wall covering is added, a screw or nail can't penetrate the wire. Any hole drilled through a joist must be no more than a fifth of the depth of the joist and should be as near as possible to the centre of the joist. Holes bigger than 30mm are not recommended without specifically designed additional strengthening to the joist.
beam transfer loads from the joist to the wall or column where it supports..