Cam lift and duration is how wide the cam opens the valve, and how long the valve stays open. The longer the valve is open, the more air\fuel mixture can get into the cylinder. More fuel means more power.
Depends on the year, cam, compression ratio. engine warm, 130-165psi, long duration lowers psi, overlap increases psi., solid cam with same duration would be higher than hyd. due to increased valve rate. All reading should be +/- 10%
The cam is the heart of the engine. If the cylinder heads can flow up to the valve lift, the duration controls where the power is made/and too a smaller part the lift control how much power is made in that powerband. AN old school rule of thumb is 10 degrees is equal to 500 rpm bump in powerband.
Duration is the amount of time the valves are open measured in crankshaft degrees. .050 duration is another way of measuring the amount of time the valves are open -- measuring it starting from the point where the lifter has moved .050 from closed position and continuing until the lifter returns to .050 from the closed position.
more period. although variable valve timing changes both intake exhaust independently, so for a cam grind that is to be one lift,duration more is better.
It is a Camshaft Machine Company Cam. Their Mon-Fri number is (517) 787-2040 i am trying to identify the same cam. If you look at the end of the cam that goes to back of motor it is stamped. CMC only made the cam. I have one and its a edelbrock performer duration advertised .278 intake .288 exhaust...valve lift .420 in. .442ex. cam lift .280 in. .295ex. sometimes cam not stamped very good hard to see....clean cood use reading glasses. My cam stamped edel2102 its a edelbrock performer#2102.
I'd bet if you called the cam manufactures they would recommend a lower duration cam of about 256 degrees of total duration and lift of about .440" or so. That little engine will respond real good if in good shape. Don't get with a wild cam as these little engines respond well around these specs. read up and explore, think about a 350 as it costs the same to build, but for around $250 a new cam, lifters , gaskets and probably timing chain up grade would do wonders for that really small block. Be sure you know how to pull the harmonic balancer and change the crank timing gear. Know that you need to pull the oil pan as it is mated to the timing chain cover and maybe buy you a 2 piece cover so if you want to change cams later you wont have to pull your pan again. Be sure you know how to pull that distributor and line it back up on top dead center and pointing at the right cylinder. you will need a puller for the balancer and you might need a lifter puller if those old lifters are stubborn. Read up on these things real good and have your cam break in lube as it is a must. Be sure you know the difference of duration at .50 and advertised duration as advertised duration is usually total duration and that is valve lift off valve seat or open. Enjoy your motoring my friend.
You need to contact the cam manufacturer. Usually 32-40 BTDC @ 3000 rpm.
Any cam will fit in the hole, but that's not to say that it will produce the right amount of lift and duration to suit the motor. It's also possible to put in a cam with so much lift it will cause the valves to hit the pistons.
the only thing to do is replace your cam with a lower duration cam or you can try adding a brake booster resevior to store vacuum for the power booster. == With such low vacuum, you might want to add an electric vacuum booster pump to augment the vacuum booster resevoir.
Cam cam is 13
You need a dial indicator and a degree wheel to measure both the lift and duration. Now you CAN check it to see if you can find any numbers, if so, you might be able to look up the part number you find and see what you have that way.