3 Types: Pneumatic: Common to smaller, vertical engines (push mowers). A plastic air vane next to the flywheel fan that is attached to the throttle. A spring is also attached to the throttle or vane. Spring tries to open throttle, vane tries to close it. Air from the fan pushes on the air vane. Faster the engine spins, the more air is pushed against the vane, closing the throttle. Mechanical: Any larger vertical engine, most horizontal engines (tillers, riding mowers, etc.). A gear inside the engine has weights attached, as the engine speeds up, these weights spread outward, pushing on a rod that sticks out of the engine block. This rod has a linkage directly to the throttle, closing it as the engine speeds up. A spring (usually a couple) tries to counteract this motion, the balance between them determines engine speed. You will see a rod come out of the block that rotates. Attached to this w/ a pinch bolt is the gov. arm, which is usually 3-5" long, with multiple holes for adjustments. This will have a rod linkage near the end of it, which attaches to the throttle. Electronic: Larger, premium applications (generators). Speed-sensing device on engines sends signal to electric actuator motor on throttle. Necessary when precise throttle and speed control are required.
Murray filed bankruptcy years ago, they was kinda absorbed by Briggs & Stratton Corpration, because Murray did owe Briggs a chunk of change... Briggs also owns Snapper now, if you look at the new Snappers you will notice they sure look like Snapper.....wonder why.....
Look under dash in right side.
Take off the air cleaner and cover. There will be a rod attached to the throttle arm. Locate that rod and follow it back to what will most likely look something like a lever extending out from the engine block. That is the external portion of the governor. There are also gears and a counterweight inside the engine that act in conjunction with the external parts.
There are many parts at are used on multiple models of engines, so its like a 50/50 chance. The 1/2 horsepower difference may use a completely different one though... Post back the model and code numbers of each of the engines, and I will look up if they are compatible or not.
With the engine off for at least 15 minutes, remove the dipstick and look to see if the oil is at the full mark.
Three things you want to look for: dirty/clogged ful filter; faulty spark plug; carburetor setting.
just bought a craftsman snow blower yesterday. 3 manufacturers, MTD, Briggs and Stratton and Husqvarna. was told MTD 357cc was chinese can`t even find a torque # for it, Briggs and Stratton 305cc and 342cc made in USA, they had no Husqvarna so i don`t know about motors. was told Briggs and Stratton were not only making the motors but the whole machine, on the Pro series i bought which has the Briggs motor, if you look on the chassis it says built in the USA. This information i was told at a Sears store. hope its correct.
briggs doesn't offer compression ratings for their engines. I will usually pull it 3 to 5 times and look for 90 to 120. anything less is a problem and if it doesn't hold compression there is a problem
Most Briggs and Stratton (B&S) engines of that size can have the spark plug gapped to 0.030" What I truly recommend is that you visit the Briggs and Stratton web site and download the engine owner's manual. You will need the Model Number, Type Number and maybe the Date Code. This information will be used to obtain the appropriate Owner's Manual. You can also obtain the IPL (Illustrated Parts List) for your particular engine. The web site is www.briggsandstratton.com - and you can take a look around for the manuals.
The most important thing is the engine. The rest is all the same. Look for anything with a Briggs and stratton engine and you will be fine. What a dumb answer. Deere by a landslide!
You are Supposed to be able to do that easily. Oil the wheels. What is keeping it from moving backwards? Look fer it!
Well, honey, the oil drain plug on a Briggs and Stratton Quantum 6.0 HP engine is usually located underneath the engine near the base. Just grab a wrench, crawl underneath, and look for a bolt that's begging to be unscrewed. Don't be shy, get down and dirty to drain that oil like a pro.