TAke off valve cover then strip off old gasket.. clean entire serface with alcohol or gas or gasket remover. Then buy a new gasket from a local auto shop, along with some gasket sealer... Put on new gasket as old one was taken off. Use gasket sealer on top and bottom or gasket. Just a thin coat. THen place the cover back on with gasket in place and tighten bolts. Let sit for about 24 hours before starting to let the gasket sealer dry.. Should work better then ever.
Not likely.... I'd never use anything "temporary" on a head gasket.
Gasket sealers generally do now work on modern engines and should not be used.
IMO, this is only a temporary emergency fix. It will not permanently fix the problem. You will need a new head gasket.
Barr's, tablet form. That's what I heard. The stuff does work well.
yea it works good on a boat motor In my experience the only permanent repair for a blown head gasket is to replace it. These gasket sealers are only a temporary fix used in an emergency.
MAYBEBut it is always a short term repair and it will cause other issues like plugged radiators and heater cores eventually.
It really should be looked as a very temporary repair more of a get you home type of fix Best if a faulty head gasket is changed have the head skimmed and pressure tested whilst it is off best wishes
My driveway has a ton of cracks in it, and I bought some concrete sealer, but my driveway is asphalt! Will the concrete sealer still work with asphalt?
It is most likely a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Chemical sealers generally do not work. Your best bet is to replace the head gasket and inspect the head for damage.
Two things I'd suspect are: First thing I'd suspect is that you missed a portion of the old gasket. These gaskets are some of the harder ones to remove as they are usually put on dry and actually penetrate into the pores of the metal(s). If you're not sure take the housing off and check to see if there's any old pieces of gasket left. If so, remove them with a good gasket scraper (I like the decal removers for this), pocket knife or sharpened putty knife. If you're sure the surfaces were clean then there are cautions if you used a gasket sealer. The gasket cements and solvent based sealers usually don't leak, silicones will if not installed properly. When using silicone sealers you have to let the sealer dry at least until it's almost completely set, if you don't the sealer can act like a lubricant and let the gasket slide which can cause a leak. I usually spread a thin coat on gasket, stick it to one of the metal surfaces and spread a thin coat on the other side of gasket. When the silicone is completely set I then install and the silicone will penetrate the pores of the metal which makes the gasket easier to remove.
Drain the engine oil. unbolt the pan and lower it as far as possible. If the pan is difficult to take completely out, see if you can reach around it to remove all of the old gasket and sealer. Carefully slide the new gasket in place, moving it inder the crank as you work it onto the pan. Add sealant, then rebolt the pan into place with the proper torque.