Looking at your question im assuming that you have ALL the lugnuts off if you do i would say you wheel is rusted and stuck to your hub Jack the car up and remove the lugnuts and turn with your back to the wheel and kick the bottom of the tier this should bust the rust loose and tier should come off IF the lugnut are not off and you have lock nuts with no tool to remove you may need to have a regular lugnut welded to the end of the locknut so you can remove it with a impact then replace it with a normal one.
Is the tire stuck on the rim, or is the rim stuck to the wheel/brake rotor? FriPilot Let's assume that on a dark rainy night you notice a thumping and you pull over and have a flat tire. You pull out your spare tire, lug wrench, and jack, set the emergency brake, loosen the lugnuts, jack up the vehicle, and the wheel refuses to budge from the car after you remove the lugnuts. No matter how hard you kick, pull, or pry on the wheel it is not coming off. You are out in the boondocks with no cellphone or help nearby. Put the lugnuts back on the wheel but leave about 1/4 inch space on each nut before the nut would contact the wheel. Jack the vehicle back down and remove the jack and anything else out away from the car. Get back in the car and drive it back and forth while turning the steering wheel sharply in one direction and then the other (watching out for traffic of course). The wheel will pop away from the rotor and you can then change the tire normally.
On 2001 Civic EX, you have to take the lugnuts off first. They hold the hubcaps on the wheel. Took me about a half hr. and 3 beers to figure out when I tried to put them back on after putting the lugnuts on first. Usually they snap onto the wheel with a steel wire.
Remove the wheelcovers, loosen the lugnuts. Jack the vehicle up and brace. Remove the lugnuts and the wheel. The calipers are held on with two bolts, working from the engine side, remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. Once removed, swing the caliper assembly to the side and tie off with string or wire. Check the condition of the rotor. Replace if necessary. Remove the brake fluid cap. Pull the used pads out of the caliper assembly. Using a large C-clamp, press the brake cylinder in all the way. Install new pads and shims. Grease all moving surfaces with moly (it should come with the pads). Slide the caliper back into place over the rotor. Bolt into position. Replace the wheel, lugnuts and wheelcover. Repeat the entire process for the other side. Put the brake fluid cap back on. Drop and test, good luck.
remove the center padded section on the steering wheel and you will see a large nut holding the wheel on, loosen the and take it off and then you will need a wheel puller to pull the wheel back off of the splines to take it off.
No Because It will damage your scooters back wheel it is also known to loosen bearings too
no! you need to push the pistons back into the calliper! you may need to turn them.
use a flathead screwdriver to pry the hubcap off. then either using a tire iron or impact take all of the lugnuts off. pull the tire off, put the new one on, and tightly screw the lugnuts back in. push the hubcap back on.
1. loosen lugnuts on wheel 2. jack car up. 3. loosen lugnuts the rest of the way and remove the wheel 4. remove two screws from brake caliper (they're located on the inside of the caliper, pointing toward the center of the car) 5. remove caliper (don't disconnect brake line). Use a wire to hang it from the strut or rest it on the strut. Do not let it hang by the brake line. 5. The brake pads are now exposed. Remove (gently!) and watch for the little metal pieces they're attached to. Don't lose them if they come off the car. You'll need them. Your brake pads are now out. Compare the thickness of the old one to the new one. The old one is much thinner. Because of this, the piston which pushes the pads onto the rotors has to extend further out of the caliper. 6. Use a clamp to force the piston back into the caliper or else the new pads won't fit. I use a piece of wood between clamp and piston to even out the force and to protect the piston from damage. You might want to use something softer. YMMV. 7. Insert new brake pads, remembering to put back any metal clips that fell out during step 4. 8. Put caliper back on over brake pads. If it doesn't fit, you need to re-clamp the piston further into the caliper. See step 5. 9. Screw the two screws back into the caliper. 10. Replace wheel. 11. Replace lugnuts. Tighten as much as you can. Hold the wheel still. 12. Lower car from jack. 13. Tighten lugnuts more. 14. Relax, congratulate yourself, and have a beer.
You will be best off safely jacking up the passenger front wheel. Remove the wheel for more work room. Loosen the 14mm nut on the pulley. Then back up top there is another 14 mm nut on the top loosen that. Now back under neath remove nut and replace pulley. Reverse for reinstall.
It is in a plastic box attached to the spare wheel carrier under the vehicle. The wheel brace is inside the boot at the back and is needed to loosen the carrier retaining screw in order to lower the carrier.
Spray the center with WD40 or some other type of penetrating oil and hit on the back side with a small sledge hammer. You can put a block of wood against the wheel so that you don't dent the rim. If they are aluminum rims, don't hit too hard or they will crack. Another way is to have the car on the ground and back the lug nuts out a couple of turns and rock the car side to side. This will sometimes loosen the rim. After you get it off, run a file around the center whole just a bit to prevent it happening the next time.