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I had a similar problem - over the years of oiling my teak table with a brush, oily blotches began to appear.

I wiped the table thoroughly with turpentine to get rid of surface oil, sanded it and then wiped it with turps again. Don't sand first otherwise your paper will quickly become clogged with the old oil. The blotches disappeared.

Instead of using a paint brush, I now put a little oil on a cloth and wipe the table. It looks like new!

You don't say what you want to put on your deck. I wouldn't varnish it. With varnish, it looks great for the 1st few months. After a year, the sun and rain will cause it to flake and you'll have to start all over again - a big job. Rather, with a thin hair roller apply quick drying timber preserve you get from your local hardware store. It does contain linseed oil but with it drying within 24 hours you can walk on it without worrying about messing up the deck or having oil on your shoes. What's more, it doesn't flake with the sun and rain. Just sweep the deck down and reapply.

Enjoy your new looking deck!

Mike

Cape Town

South Africa

Guys: I had a similar problem when I misapplied linseed oil to my butcher block kitchen counters. Turpentine saturated Scotchbrite pads (7447+ I think was the part number) worked miracles! It was very similar to using steel wool, but the scotch brite pads worked like sponges to grab all of the gunky residue. A job I thought would take hours took 30 minutes.

Steve, New Market, MD

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11y ago
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15y ago

Assuming you really want to remove it (I would just soak it up with tissue, wipe it off a few times and polish it as though you had meant to coat the tiles) use mineral spirits and a scrubbing brush. But why do you need to remove it?

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13y ago

almost straight bleach worked for me

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11y ago

sawdust

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Q: How to remove Linseed oil from quarry tiles?
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Can you use paint thinner to remove linseed oil from metal?

Denatured alchohol will remove the dried linseed oil from metal, just don't get it on any wood.


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