How do you replace the head on the 2.0 SPI ford focus engine?

Answer 1

Not too hard except reaching the intake manifold bolts which are facing the firewall and difficult to get tools on.

Working from memory -- Remove valve cover (3 top bolts, and 2 hoses). Remove intake snorkel (2 clamps). Remove exhaust downpipe (4 bolts behind manifold heat shield), unplug O2 sensor. You can leave the exh manifold attached to the head. Unbolt EGR tube from manifold (2 bolts). Remove serpentine belt (OReilly will loan a tool to do this easily). Put a jack under the oil pan and lift slightly, then remove engine mount RH side (viewed from driver seat) (5 bolts, 3 chassis and 2 engine). Need to take out the radiator surge tank to reach the mount (1 bolt and a tab).

Lift away upper timing belt cover, then remove lower plastic cover (3 bolts I think). Index camshaft to TDC #1 by turning crankshaft at damper pulley bolt. If reusing the belt, mark the belt and sprockets with a dot of white-out to make installation check easy. Unload the timing belt tensioner using a hex driver, there's a small hole to put a pin into, use a 1/8 inch drill bit for a pin. Remove the belt from the cam sprocket and just let it sit there.

LH side - Unbolt coil pack (3 bolts) and remove with ign harness attached. Remove upper radiator hose at thermostat housing (coolant should be drained first). Remove thermostat housing (3 bolts).

Backside - The intake manifold can stay in position but it has to be loose. There's a bracket on the RH side holding it in place, remove that (2 bolts). The manifold is in 2 pieces, one for air runners and another for injection and SPI butterflies. All this can stay in place but the manifold attach bolts all come out, and they hold the 2 pieces together and on the head. Using different length extensions and sockets, you can reach all but one bolt head with a 1/4 ratchet. One has to be turned with a wrench. They stagger in 2 rows top and bottom, I think there's 7 total. 2 are very long and can't be removed completely, just loosen and pull so they aren't into the head anymore.

The cam position sensor has to come out but I don't remember why, it must go through the manifold into the head or something. One bolt holds it in, it has an O ring and is long, hard to get clearance to pull it out but necessary. It's on the left rear corner of the head near the top.

I may have forgotten some little things, like sensor wires or small brackets. These will be apparent as you go along. Each thing removed, I place on the floor in a line in the order removed, with the bolts along with the piece. Then reassembly goes in the opposite order with all the pieces together for a section.

Remove 10 head bolts. These are discarded, you must use new bolts to install the head again as they are torque-to-yield type and stretched when installed. Should be able to lift off the head and exh manifold together, no clearance issues and not terribly heavy. One caution, watch for 2 hollow dowel pins, they are loose fit and could stay with the head or the block, but you don't want to lose one down into a cooling passage.

Head's now off. Transfer the manifold and cam sprocket to your new assy if changing heads. Index the cam to the same place as previous, for TDC #1. Most head gasket sets have a new camshaft seal, put that in before the sprocket goes on. Visually check that pistons for cyls 1 and 4 (ends) are at the top and 2 and 3 are at the bottom.

Clean the mating surfaces with a nonmarking scraper, and then a solvent like acetone. Don't let pieces drop into oil or coolant galleys. Coat the new multilayer metal head gasket with a spray copper sealer, lay in place with the dowel pins, then set the new head down on them until seated. Lube the head bolt threads and under their heads. Get all the bolts lightly snug then follow procedure in sequence (from Autozone website): Looking from the front bumper toward the engine, near row L to R is 8-6-2-4-10, far (rear) row is 9-3-1-5-7 in sequence. Tighten to 37 lbs-ft; loosen 1/2 turn; retorque to 37; tighten 90 more degrees; tighten again 90 more degrees.

Now start attaching stuff in the order removed. Intake manifold first as it's the hardest to reach. Don't spin the cam or crank while the head is on and the timing belt off; move slightly only to get the right tooth on the timing belt. Turn too much and valves can bump into pistons. Don't forget the cam position sensor before the intake manifold is tight.

Good idea to turn the crankshaft through a few full turns by hand (ratchet on the damper pulley bolt, clockwise) after installing the timing belt and tensioning, to verify compression and no interference. Your hand will feel something solid without bending things, the starter will just bend them.

Don't forget coolant. No bleeding procedure on the SPI, just fill it, aboutg 6 qts total. Takes a day to do off then on, without prior experience.