Take the neg battery cable off. Then the wires off of the starter then the bolts that hold it on. Then sometimes you have to remove th exhaust manifold to get it out.
you don't have to remove manifold just the 3 bolts holding the pipe to the manifold then cut the 2 bolts off the flanged conn. next to the flex loint ( this is from a 99 4x4 hope its the same ) manifold pipe bolts are self locking and very tight you have to glow (torches) them always remember fire bad should be done by someone experienced. cut the rear weld nuts off the flange. if you complete this and don't burn the truck up you need to check the flange at manifold make sure it good and clean joining surfaces at rear flange buy new nuts for manifold and new nuts and washers for rear flange i reused old gaskets they were fine
Go how to change a starter on a 92 Isuzu rodeo in this forum for a more detailed explanation of this process !
The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, andget a repair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library.
Remove starter on a 1999 rodeo 3.2 v6 first this is no easy task you will need torches and air tools unless you really have ALOT OF PATIENCE ! Disconnect the + red post on battery. Jack up left side (DRIVER SIDE) secure vehicle with stands or blocking ! Spray the 3 bolts mounting the exhaust pipe to the manifold with a good pentrating oil.Unplug the 2 oxy. sensors on the pipe you'll be removing ( be careful not to break the clips on them) Get a thin sheet of metal cut it to fit up in front of fuel tank so no sparks can get on tank (GET A FULL FIRE EXTINGUISHER)( if you have a fuel leak you have to take care of that first!) after confiming there is no fuel or other combustibles in the area torch off the weld nuts on the rear side of the flanged pipe be careful not to damage flanges take a hammer and drive out bolts. Now move to the front of pipe room is limited i used several 3/8 drive extensions a swivel, 17 mm deep well 6 point socket with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter hooked up to a 1/2 breaker bar.These nuts are selflocking tight little Bas*#% glow them with the torch be careful that the heat from your flame doesn't burn any wires or hoses! Key here is BABY STEPS heat it turn it heat it turn it after a full turn has been made heat it and hit it with the air rachet. You can now move the pipe down and back far enough to remove starter.Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on shield. Remove the 2 14mm bolts holding starter to eng.for one you must slide wire loom out of the way to get on it. The starter wires one wire you must push down on top of connector to release it. the other wire is a 13mm i believe. Starter is gonna run about $150.00 Check gasket and flange area at manifold & gasket at flange at rear pipe. I applied red high heat silicone and reused mine. Used new nuts (Couldn't find flanged lockers just used regular mm nuts no washers) and bolts with neversieze. This should be done by a profesional ! LOL!
This is a job I just did this morning and it wasn't much fun. Disconnect your negative battery cable and then you must remove the front wheel, then remove the rubber splash cover that is under the wheel well that gives you access to the exhaust manifold and starter. Disconnect the starter cable and solenoid switch wire from the starter. then remove the shroud covering the wires going to your transmission gear indicator switches. You will see this small shroud directly under the starter. Then remove the heat shrouds around the exhaust pipe where you see the o2 sensor. Then remove the starter bolts (2 ea) and you will have to manuver the starter around quite a bit to get it to drop out of the hole where the exhaust pipe comes down. I had to remove the small plastic clamp that holds in a metal line running along the frame rail that keeps the starter from coming out. Once that is done, you just have to work it out of the hole then reverse the process and put the new one in. It took me a couple of hours and a lot of frustration, but I got it out and it worked out fine. good luck and e-mail me if you need any further assistance.
I just did my 1998 Durango starter today so this is applied information.
1. Set the parking brake and chock (block) both rear tires. Double check the parking brake.
2. Disconnect Both battery cables (most people do one but if the ground falls to a ground source the circuit can still be completed. Do both its safer and insures no electrical issues)
3. Jack up the left front side (this isn't required but makes working under it easier and more comfortable)
4. Remove the skid plate (three bolts in front, two on each cross-member in back. These bolts are 15mm). Remove both the skid plate and cross member together. Just unbolt them from the frame.
5. Reach over left front tire through fender well and take the two nuts off the starter wires. The small ignition nut is 5/16. The one from the battery is 1/2. Move the wires out of the way so they don't snag the starter later.
6. Reach through the fender well again and remove the TOP starter bolt. This is a 5/8 bolt. NOTE: There is a transmission line bracket held by this bolt as well.
7. Crawl under the truck and remove the bottom starter nut (yes nut. its on a stud). This one is a trick because its in a tight spot but can be done with a 5/8 deep socket.
8. Now the starter is completely unbolted and loose. push it towards the front of the truck. You will find it hangs up on that transmission line bracket i noted in line 6. just bend the bracket a little bit (DONT GET IGNORANT WITH IT!! You will need to bend it back on the install).
9. The starter will now come out easily between the exhaust pipe and the frame (right where the skid plate bolted up). It may take a slight turn or twist to get it out but its pretty easy.
USEFUL NOTES: This job took me about two hours to do. There is no specialty tools required. The tools you need are as follows:
1/2 socket or wrench (battery cables on both ends)
15mm socket or wrench (skid plate)
5/8 deep socket (starter bolts)
5/16 wrench (ignition nut on starter)
To reinstall just do steps in reverse (dont forget the transmission line bracket)
I just went through this with my 1998 Durango, it ended up being the ignition coil. Costs about $37.99 and takes about 20 minutes to change, a very easy fix.
PX8 - Black, Clear Coat
I take it as the durango is a V-8 so if you are standing in front of the vehicle looking at the engine the cylinders on the right hand side are 1,3,5,7, and the cylinders on the left are 2,4,6,8, from front to back on both sides of the engine. Hope this helps
disconnect the battery, pull the primary cover and remove the jack shaft, You will need a 1/4 Allen socket to get to the starter bolts. remove battery pos cable from starter and remove
All you need to do is replace the sensor. It cost around $20.
Dodge Durango was created in 1998.
pull one out and put the new one in
The first Dodge Durango was the 1998 model year.
No.
The rear hatch on a 1998 dodge durango won't open
Is it an African Durango or a European Durango? The Curb weight (ie without cargo or passengers) of the 1998 Dodge Durango is approximately 4700 pounds (2127 kg).
The Dodge Durango was introduced in 1998, therefore this question cannot be answered as is. However, the 1998 durango had a curb weight of 4689 lbs.
How do you change shift cylinoid on 1998 dodge Durango
One bolt, one nut. so two fasteners.
NO.
located at the end of the upper radiator hose. remove two bolts, replace with new parts remember to replace the gasket.
1998