Only if you have a lead foot.
If the engine shuts down at highway speeds I will suggest there is insufficient fuel pressure and a failing fuel pump. If all is running well at lower speeds that do not demand a large supply of fuel but the problem shows at higher speeds demanding more fuel supply this is a fuel supply problem. We had one that would vapor lock like that on hot days. the fuel line runs right along the exhaust. I'm assuming it starts back up in 15 to 20 mins. you can install a piece of sheet metal where the fuel line comes close to the exhaust
No need to recheck the torque on the wheel lug nuts of your automobile if they were installed correctly the first time. If you have aftermarket wheels, you should check them with in a hundred miles of instillation.
Blue smoke out of the tail pipe, low compression, excessive blow-by, excessive motor oil consumption, loss of power.A more detailed answerIf all your piston rings are badly worn you'll have blue/black smoke coming from the exhaust every time you accelerate and your engine oil dipstick will show the oil being used up much faster than usual, like you will have to top-up with a pint of engine oil every 300-500 miles. If only one or two pistons have worn-out piston rings the symptoms would not be so bad.It all depends on how well the engine has been driven and maintained. On a modern engine, say less than 15 years old, if the oil was changed regularly and the engine was never thrashed (over-revved) then it is unlikely you'll get worn piston rings until the engine has done 150 thousand miles, or much more if it's a diesel.NoteOn modern engines with overhead camshafts, if the valve-seals are worn you'd also get blue/black smoke coming from the exhaust every time you accelerate and would be burning up engine oil fast. Even if the engine was driven well, and its oil was changed regularly according to the recommended service intervals, its valve-seals are still liable to wear out faster than its piston rings. How long the valve-seals last will depend most of all on the quality of the materials used by the engine manufacturer and, to a lesser extent, on the engine size: on some makes of engine the valve seals could normally need replacing every 100 thousand miles, on others they could last 300 thousand miles or more.
No. The higher HP Cummins require a different ECM. The increased HP engine was programed differently and was usually a *Celect Plus* . Also be aware that the ECM plug has a different wiring cofiguration and will not simply plug inton your OEM wiring harness.
From 2000 to 2004 they all had a belt that must be replaced at 120,000 miles. The DOHC engine is an interference engine. The SOHC engine is not. Starting in 2005 they have a chain.
V10 Left side exhaust manifold studs rusted away causing exhaust leak, 2002, 25,000 miles in motorhome.
Talk to a trusted mechanic. Most auto part stores can get you a re-manufactured engine.
This is an indication that your engine is burning oil, and that the cardinals will need to conduct another ballot.
your exhaust is probly stopped up
The exhaust pipe will turn red when the engine is running lean. You may have an EGR valve problem, vacuum leak or other problems that can cause the engine to run lean. A lean running engine can burn valves or pistons and causes other problems. Whatever the cause, it needs to be repaired before you put more miles on the engine, otherwise you'll ruin it, if you haven't already.
For G20 engines-SR20DE- Go on E-bay and there are several companies that will ship you an engine with about 50,000 miles for $500 or less. Your labor costs to put it in depends on how much your mechanic charges you to install the engine.
Likely a real bad ring job otr a broken ring(piston ring). To come out the exhaust the oil has to get past the piston rings, then that which is not burnt in combustion(causing) the smoke, exits thru the exhaust manifold and hence to the tail pipe.
burn or leak? do you know for a fact it is burning? do you smell it? is your exhaust blue? that new, more likely a leak, maybe front or rear seal (not sure what that engine has).
That would certainly be one of many likely results. The manifold basically carries the exhuast gas and the exhaust noise from the engine itself to the system that "muffles" it. Any cracks let all these things escape.
A head gasket generally fails for a reason. Perhaps the engine overheated and the head warped. To replace the head gasket you will need to pull the intake maniforld, exhaust manifold, lift the head, take it to a machine shop and have it machined to make it flat. While you're at it, if there are many miles on the engine, have the valve guides recoditioned, exhaust valves reground and/or replaced and if the engine has an overhead cam, have the machine shop set up the valve clearances. However, if there are many miles on the engine, just get a crate engine. You'll be better off in the long run. When you put a reconditioned head on an old block you still have an old engine.
S-10's have various troubles that make them 'sound loud.' Typically the exhaust system is the culprit. Pollution control systems such as the EGR or AIR pump are prone to leaking causing loud exhaust noises the intensify when the engine revs. Additionally, the timing belt is very noisy in truck that have more than 75,000 miles. I would first check the exhaust system including the emmissions systems that are connected to the exhaust system.
could be a headgasket is blown, check the oil to see if it has water or if the exhaust smells like coolant. I had a problem with my 1992 Thuderbird. I would go to work everyday, about 10 miles and when I got in the car that evening it would overheat on the way home due to lack of water. As long as I ran the car from 10 miles to my parents home 275 miles away I had no problem. When I stopped the car, the next time I started it the water was low. I changed the water pump, thermostat, and cooling system fluid. I had no visible leaks, under the car, out of the exhaust, and the engine oil was clean. It turned out to be a head gasket. I took the engine apart, replaced the headgaskets, and it corrected the problem. I suspected as long as the engine was running the pressure of the engine and the radiator pressure were equal, when I stopped the high pressure in the radiator forced the water into the engine and out the exhaust. Mark