The Honda accord rear will bearing should be torqued at 60 pounds. You can ruin the wheel bearing or the wheel seal if you over torque the wheel bearing nut.
If it has been correctly maintained the it is most likely normal wear and tear. On the other hand , if your front end steering is out and over large tires that have not been aligned. if the torsion bar that attaches to lower control arm is detached all a reasons you are going threw front wheel bearing like butter. I had a Chevy GMC I wanted to get them big old new tires on and it began, time after time. Find a alignment service store that specializes in four wheel drives and four wheel alignments. So do not stress take a deep breath and get to a phone book. i promise in the event you purchase 800.00 worth of tires you can trash the front tires and then the wheel bearings . get the 65 or 70 dollar front end alignment. have it checked every 6 months or so to optimize the life of them 800.00 tires.
The 2000 Ford Explorer front hub nut has a torque specification of 140 pounds of pressure. The hub should not be over tighten. Over tightening can ruin the seal.
This could be caused by worn out ball joints, worn out constant velocity joints (if equipped), bad wheel bearing, worn out steering linkage, loose wheel nuts, cracked rim, worn out sway bar bushings or end links. Most of these are pretty serious, you need to have them checked ASAP. Losing a wheel at highway speed, which some of these can lead to, sucks, trust me I've seen it happen.
trouble! see a mechanic. my car did that for a while and was faulty battery stopping ti from turning over. i think yours may be gearbox or driveshaft by sounds though. i really recomend not driving it when possible It could be the pitman arm in your steering and suspension system or a wheel bearing. You could also have a damaged ball joint.
Wheel bearing/hub assembly
Remove the auto lock hub cover then the circlip which holds the auto lock mechanisim make sure you keep this clean you should then see a large locking ring with multiple holes in it and also 3 screws remove the screws then the ring, the ring behind the locking ring should then be turned clock wise to tighten the wheel bearing be sure not to over tighten it then refit the mechanisim and wheel and check the play has been removed
The Honda accord rear will bearing should be torqued at 60 pounds. You can ruin the wheel bearing or the wheel seal if you over torque the wheel bearing nut.
After you remove the wheel, remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. There is a nut on the end of the axle shaft. Remove the nut. There are three bolts on the back of the steering knuckle that hold on the wheel bearing. Remove these bolts. Then with a punch or chisel and hammer, strike the axle shaft until the old bearing comes out. Reverse procedure to install. Don nut re-use the axle shaft nut. Do not under- or over-tighten the axle shaft nut. Torque for the nut is 180 ft lbs.
Should be the same as '96. You can buy the bearings with the race at your local auto parts. Remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. The bearings are in the rotor hub assembly. The front bearing comes out very easy ( nut, bearing lock, washer, then bearing ) The race if it has to be changed has to be punched out with a punch ( brass works good ) and to install there is a tool, but I just hammer the new one in using the old one as a guide ( or punch ). The rear bearing, you have to remove the grease seal with a screwdriver the just slide the bearing out. Same thing to remove the race. If the race on both bearings is good, no need to replace. But they have to be good. Repack with wheel bearing grease, don't over pak. New seal on back, then re-assemble. More questions, send me a note on my message board. And, do not over tighten the locking nut. Spin the rotor as you tighten the nut, snug with no play will do.
Torgue the bearing to 30-40 ft lbs,to seat the bearing, then back it out. Now tighten it by hand just enough to hold the bearing in place. Spin the wheel by hand as you snug it back up. You don't want to over-tighten it, this would cause friction, making it harder for the wheel to spin. Not too loose either though. Just enough so there's no "play" when you try to wiggle the wheel. Now you're ready to put the cotter pin back. Somebody had posted an answer with an extremely high torgue spec. If you already took that advice, you probably ruined you're bearing by now.
The 1997 Ford F2 50 pickup truck wheel bearing torque specification is 60 pounds. Over torquing the wheel bearing will cause it to fail.
Assuming this is a front wheel drive model, it could be any of the following; Rear wheel alignment off Warped rim (even slightly warped) Bad Rotor/drum Incorrect insertion of bearing race Over tightening the bearing/(rotor/drum) nut Bent spindle Bent or worn trailing arm or bushings. Bad quality Wheel Bearings.
Both will cause premature bearing failure.
Bearings, They are in the metal wheel in the middle of the wheel to make it rotate around the truck axel. the wheels are usually solid if that's what your asking.
2000 BLAZER FRONT WHEEL HUB INSTALLATION, WHERE DOES THE LARGE O-RING GO? You can see the outer race of the wheel bearing is stepped. The large o-ring goes over the first step and buts up against the second. The o-ring may be slightly larger than the smaller diameter area on the outer race, fit a little loose, and be a little larger on outside diameter than the larger part of the bearing. The hub needs to be put in evenly. Tighten each bolt a flat at a time if you need to. The o-ring should lubed a little (I used Vaseline). As you tighten the bolts continue to check the o-ring to make sure one part isn't popping out the front or back. The o-ring should rest against the step in the knuckle which corresponds to the bearing. This is not a gasket for the dust shield.
Lack of lubrication, improper pre-load on the bearing assembly, driving in deep water and allowing wheel bearing grease to become contaminated with foreign matter are a few of the reasons. Scheduled maintenance would catch this early on; if your vehicle is a front wheel driver then the bearing hub assembly in each wheel is sealed pretty much for the life of the car unless the seal(s) protecting the bearings are ripped or compromised. This will allow road junk to get into the bearings and once they lose their spherical shape, it's all over. Sort of like getting sand in your old time roller skate wheels and the ensuing grinding that usually follows. It is like that but on a large car scale.