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The protein in Brie cheese is consumed and converted by the culture used to create it. As the process continues, the conversion of the protein to ammonia develops. At colder temperatures, the ammonia is trapped in the cheese and cannot evaporate out as well. Exposing the interior of the loaf will allow some of the ammonia to evaporate off, thus the unpleasant ammonia aroma off a cold loaf. As the interior is exposed to atmosphere and allowed to warm, the latent ammonia will dissipate out of the cheese. As the cheese warms, the conversion process can become more vigorous, especially in the presence of moisture, and the ammonia smell may get stronger after initially dissipating. I've always been able to detect at least a slight ammonia smell from any Brie I eat, no matter the quality or freshness. It is a natural, albeit slightly undesirable quality. It does not mean the cheese has gone bad, just that it is getting past it's ideal ripeness. If the smell of ammonia is strong and the cheese loaf has collapsed, then it is well past it's ideal ripeness and shouldn't be served or most will find it offensive. One way to mask the ammonia smell is to apply fresh ground black pepper to the brie in sufficient quantity but do not overdo it.

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Q: Why does brie smell like ammonia when it is too old?
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