Generally, if the electrician did it right, the BLACK wire is HOT, and the WHITE wire is NEUTRAL. Meaning that the white wire is the center tap of the main transformer, and the black wire(s) are either leg of the 240 volt output. Since the hot to center tap only takes half of the 240, it ends up being 120 volts at your outlet.
White is the neutral wire. Black is hot, green is ground.
The voltage potential supplying conductor.
The voltage (AC RMS) between the "hot" wire and the "neutral" wire is 110 VAC (volts alternating current). But it should be noted that the "110" volts supplied to homes can range from 95 to 130 volts, with the present standard now being 120 VAC. In addition, if the circuits are wired in accordance to most local codes, the "neutral' wire is connected to the "ground" wire in the distribution (fuse or circuit breaker panel or box), so the 110 volts will also appear between the "hot" wire (black color coded wire) ,and the ground wire (bare wire, within an insulating jacket carrying the insulated "hot" and "neutral" wires). Note, however, that the "ground" wire is not designed nor intended to carry the "return" current from the "hot" wire, but only as a safety "ground" for currents due to shorted or improperly wired devices connected to the circuit.
White.
It simply means that the ground wire is not grounded. There are two HOT wires and the unshielded copper ground wire which should be connected some how to the earth (ie. grounded)
White is the neutral wire. Black is hot, green is ground.
The voltage potential supplying conductor.
The voltage (AC RMS) between the "hot" wire and the "neutral" wire is 110 VAC (volts alternating current). But it should be noted that the "110" volts supplied to homes can range from 95 to 130 volts, with the present standard now being 120 VAC. In addition, if the circuits are wired in accordance to most local codes, the "neutral' wire is connected to the "ground" wire in the distribution (fuse or circuit breaker panel or box), so the 110 volts will also appear between the "hot" wire (black color coded wire) ,and the ground wire (bare wire, within an insulating jacket carrying the insulated "hot" and "neutral" wires). Note, however, that the "ground" wire is not designed nor intended to carry the "return" current from the "hot" wire, but only as a safety "ground" for currents due to shorted or improperly wired devices connected to the circuit.
Connect a rheostat (available at home improvement stores) in series with either the hot or neutral wire of the fan.
Volts = Amps * ohms 110 = 100*1.1 Thus the voltage was 110 Volts.
White.
It simply means that the ground wire is not grounded. There are two HOT wires and the unshielded copper ground wire which should be connected some how to the earth (ie. grounded)
Very literally, hot wire is a wire that is hot. Pertaining to vehicles, to hot wire a vehicle is to start the engine or motor of the vehicles without the use of the ignition.
In US household electrical service there are two "hot" 110 volt wires and one ground. Only one hot wire is connected to a normal outlet or light fixture. To wire a 220 volt alternating current outlet, both hot wires are connected to the outlet. This is used for appliances that need more power than is provided by 110 volts like electric ranges, clothes dryers, air conditioners.
white. Screws on that side (neutral) should be silver. "Brass" side gets the Black (hot) wire.
If wired correctly the red wire will be hot, but any wire can be hot regardless of colour if done incorrectly.
It depends on the type of 110 block.