"Drywall primer" -Yes, -it's called exactly that -right on the can !
Regular drywall primer.
Yes it can. (but it's kind of expensive to use as primer ! )
About 3-4 gallons of primer. Don't be stingy with it. Better primer coat improves your finish coat and primer is cheap.
Yes, you can use it....but what are you trying to do? The drywall primer is specifically designed to seal the drywall and make the surface uniform. You will not get any benefit from using it on top of a finish coat except for using it as a base coat for changing colors.
If you use a 100% acrylic primer on bare drywall, you should have no problem with top coating it with any sheen wall paint. Many flats are self priming on bare drywall though, so you may be able to save some money there. Just ask the paint store what the recommended primer is to determine what the most economical solution is. For exterior work, use a block fill primer for bare block, a hot stucco primer for new masonry less than a month old with a pH of 13 or less (check with a pH pencil) or a 100% acrylic exterior primer for any bare wood surface or bare masonry surface over 30 days old.
New galvanized what ? -Are you talking about galv steel framing ? If so it need no priming. Steel studs are within the wall and do not need any kind of primer or paint.
Kilz 2 will work under wallpaper as a primer and sealer over new drywall, drywall repairs, or other surfaces. If you are using it as a sizing for your wallpaper, it will work, but is not as good as using a real wallpaper sizing.
PVA is a better primer for new drywall. Do you need it, not really. Any good latex primer will do the job just as well. I guess it really just depends on what you expect your primer to do. Cheap primers will seal the drywall, but not much more. I find bonding primers and pva primers will provide a much more solid platform for topcoats. They may cost more and be a little overkill, but they will provide you with layer of primer that will allow your topcoat to dry in even. You can also dry a high build primer, which is the product I prefer to use. They give you a great platform to work from, and since they are usually about 3 mils thicker that standard primer, they fill in a lost of voids in your wall. If you go with this kind of primer, it is best to spray it. You really can't achieve the mil build up you need from a brush and roller application. If you use the roller application, and are worried about really sealing the wall and filling voids, I would recommend two coats of primer.
There is not normally any kind of adhesive on drywall, but this could be something very new that i haven't seen.
Keyhole saw are used in repairing drywall, or for cutting drywall for insertion of new electrical boxes.
Latex Primer dries fairly quickly. It will depend on the humidity levels in the home and the surface its applied to. On new drywall which the surface is more porous and will absorb more primer vs previously painted. Usually you can apply a top coat in 2 - 4 hours. Rick The Renovator
Hello! Just a couple of guesses as to why the drywall compound is coming off the drywall while you are attempting to prime: First, is the compound totally cured; that is, is it hard and dry? Second, are you using a primer that is specifically designed for new drywall? Lastly, maybe too much paint, or even overworking the paint could saturate the compound, turning it back into a wet goop.