DOT 3 Brake fluid.
The clutch hydraulics have a problem is the most likely issue Either clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder
On top of the transmission, near the clutch slave cylinder.
Under the hood - drain or soak up the brake fluid in the reservoir, remove 4 nuts/bolts to pull the A/C hose out of the way (tie it off), remove the plastic reservoir, disconnect the fluid line from the master cylinder (m/c). From inside the car - pull the pin that connects the rod to the clutch pedal, remove the 2 nuts that are holding the master cyl in place. Manipulate the m/c and rod and pull it out toward the engine compartment - it may require some force. If you rebuild it, make sure you hone it out and clean before assy. Try to adj the rod the same for fine tuning later - it will make it easier. Reverse for installation.
First, find out why the reservoir is empty. If you've developed a leak, you need to find out where it is and fix it. You might be able to get by just with a little fluid in the reservoir, but it will be far less headache in the future if you just fix the problem. Check for leaks in the clutch release cylinder. A new one costs about $60. You will need to bleed the system after adding fluid. Attach clear tubing (5/16" inside diameter, about 1 ~ 2 feet long) to the bleeder nipple on the release cylinder and run it to a container, loosen the nipple, have someone depress the clutch pedal and hold it down. Tighten the bleed nipple before the clutch pedal is released. Repeat until fluid runs out with no bubbles.
on some of the 3000 gt's there is a booster for the clutch pedal under the dash. In some cases this unit is not working and is a dealer item only. If you don't have one of these the way to bleed the slave cylinder is to just bleed it like you would the brakes. The slave cylinder is located on top of the transmission by the firewall and rear mount. for additional adjustment some have an adjustment at the pedal itself. I'm a mistu dealer tech and have done these many times.
It's like a brake job, infact the bleeder is the same size as the brake bleader. Find the clutch slave cylinder at the transmission. It on the passenger side and at the front. You should be able to trace the line and/or see where the clutch fork comes out to it. You will probably need to pull the intake piping off (I have turbo and not the NA so not sure for your model). Fill up the master (at firewall) with new fluid. Have a buddy pump it up (with hand if that far gone). Then have him hold it to the floor. Crack the 8mm bleader and close. The keep repeating answer ALL HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ON CARS ARE ALL DA SAME THE KEYS ARE MAKE SURE THE FLUID LINES CONNECTED TO YOUR SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDERS ARE ALL TIGHT WHATEVER TECHNIQ YOU CAN DO TO PROPERLY TIGHTEN THEM AND NO LEAKS,AFTER THAT IF THERES NO MORE LEAKS HAND PUMP VACUUM BLEEDER IS ONE OF THE KEY FROM SLAVE BLEEDER SCREW,AND THATS YOU JUST GOT YOURSELF A DEALER CLUTCH & UNTIL THE PARTS ARE EXPIRED, THE ONE OF THE MAIN THING TO REMEMBER IS IF YOU CAN PREVENT TO BLEED THEM JUST ONCE ONLY DO IT PERFECT,IT WILL GUARANTEED DEALER CLUTCH.WITHOUT PROBLEMS UNTIL THEY EXPIRED,
no but u can get them done
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The factory default master password is "think." Rather simple really...
3000 ml = 3 liters There are 1000 milliliters in a liter.
its your tranny, you probably damaged the teeth on 1st gear or your syncros went out, if all gears are not going in then its your clutch
Not True