Post your question on http://C4owners.org Someone there will know Although I'm a C4 owner, I have a diesel!

If your truck has a 4.6 or 5.4 liter V-8 engine, then the spark plugs are under the "coil on plug" ignition coils, one for each cylinder. They are located on the intake manifold/cylinder head on top of the engine. You will need a 7mm 1/4" drive socket with an extension and a universal joint to remove the ignition coil first, then use a 5/8" spark plug socket with a universal joint and a 3" extension bar to remove the plugs. Try to twist, then pull the ignition coil/boot off the plug after removing the retaining bolt.

I have a 2000, I'm sure they are the same..take the four bolts off the top cover (the one that says 2.4 or whatever) and carefully lift the piece out...there are plastic and rubber boots attaching the cover to the plugs.

www.motorcraft.com shows the spark plug gap as .044 inch

Spark plugs are threaded into the cylinder head on the engine. They are sometimes hard to locate because of the use of composite materials used to hide their appearance. Automotive manufacturers like the idea of a sleek flat looking engine bay, so they hide it all behind plastic.

Look for 4, 6, or 8 (depending on the number of cylinders in your vehicle) wide heavy gauge wires grouped together. Follow these to your spark plugs.

One note to add, not all cars have ignition wires. Such as the GM quad 4 motor for one. On the top of the motor there is a coil housing cover that needs to be removed to access them.

undo motor mount in front and put jack under engine and gently lower engine until you can see back plugs

Well, if you want to make it harder on yourself, you can change them the way I did on my 98 Grand Prix. Don't mess with motor mounts and just try to reach back there using a mirror and skinny hands to pull wire off, untighten, replace, retighten, wire back on, and lose 2-3 tools in the engine compartment that never fell through to the ground. It was fun!!

Make sure the car wheels are chocked. Be on level ground. Make sure the transmission is in Park. Remove the forward most bolts in each of the two motor mounts in front of the engine. Have someone help you push the car forward and the engine will move away from the firewall as you do this. once you get the car forwrd enough make sure you have the wheels chocked again so the car can't roll backwards. You will see an "eye" on the bottom of the motor mount that you can stick the bolt back trough once you get the engine rocked forward enough. Once you get the bolt in the eye you will have plenty of room to get down behind the engine. You can go further if you don't want to use the bolt through the eye. Just push the car forwrd even more and chock the wheels again. You will want to make sure that whatever you have securing the wheels will not come out. You wouldn't want it to happen and get you arm pinned in between the firewall and the engine.

Just changed spark plugs on my 98 Grand Prix with 3.8L V-6. Was able to get to back spark plugs without moving engine, although you may skin some knuckles--my hands and arms are not skinny. The hardest part was removing the old wires--twist the boot first to break them free from the spark plug before trying to remove them. I also replaced the wires as a precaution and since I found some cracks at the wire-to-boot base. You will need a ratchet with a flex head and a short extension between the ratchet and spark plug socket to ease removal. Using dielectric grease on the boot before installing it on the new plugs should ease removal of the wire in the future if you need to.

the valve cover gaskets are leaking. the valve cover gasket kits are cheep labor is expensive, 5 hour job!

A school in a predominantly white neighborhood that has a higher quality of instruction than a school in a predominantly black neighborhood

there s a cover over it is black or should be it has about 8 screws 8mm socket right on top ogf the engine it should say 16v zetec on it u take that cover off and u will see the spark plug wires

In most cars the spark plugs are situated under the bonnet, located towards the front of the vehicle.

Under the hood you will see a thin metal plate right on top of the motor and there are four bolts. They are 14 mm and the plugs are under there in between the cams. There is a rubber gasket around the plugs. Pull them off, and there you go.

Believe it or not, the easiest way is: 1. Remove the plug wire by pulling it off carefully, grasp it close to the end. You can also buy a plug wire remover which is available at any parts store. 2. Using a SPARK PLUG wrench (available at any parts store) - remove the old plug. 3. Insert the new plug. 4. Tighten, but not TOO tight. 5. Push the plug wire back on. 6. Repeat 1-5 for the other 7 plugs. You might find it easier to access some of the plugs via the holes above the tire wells. From the side of the vehicle, you'll see a hole near the top of the tire well. If you change the plugs, it's best to replace the wires also. NOTE: The wires and plugs on Grand Marquis are rated for 100,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. NOTE 2: Unless you area good mechanic, changing the plugs can cause you more heartache than the price of having a professional do it for you. With all the Computerized stuff on 2000 model year and later automobiles, it's best to pay a price for a complete tune-up. Good Luck -tj-

Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decal

located in the front of the engine compartment ( it will show the

type of spark plugs to use and the spark plug gap )

The 1995 Pontiac Grand Am starter relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The starter relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.

Best way to diagnose is to scan for codes, but not having that I would guess the ignition module then the crank/cam sensor.

I was looking at one of Fords websites and it shows :

For a 1965 Ford Mustang , 3.3 liter / 200 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( .035 inch )

For a 1965 Ford Fairlane , 2.8 liter / 170 cubic inch ( .035 )

For a 1965 Ford F-100 , 4.9 liter / 300 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( medium duty is .030 and light duty is .035 )

So. without knowing which model and engine size it looks like ( .035 inch spark plug gap )

The alternator should only have to be replaced if it has either failed to provide sufficient current to keep the battery charged and the car's electrical system supplied, or it has suffered mechanical damage like a worn bearing or damaged casing. Replacement for age alone is not necessary.

any diesel is hard to start when cold. your diesel should have a block heater somewhere. find the plug in and when vehicle is parked,plug the cord into a 110 outlet.that should solve your problem. this is all explained in your owners handbook. To add to this answer: Most diesel engines work off a set timer (they don't know the difference between -20 and plus 20 degrees) of around 15sec. A very popular solution used in Canada is to have the timer bypassed to a switch. The best type of switch to use is called a MOMENTARY, it only activates the plugs with your finger on the switch. Not touching the switch the plugs will work normally, but when you hold the switch on it will continue to run as long as you want (I know Toyota Landcrusiers glow plugs can run for a minute with no problems to the plugs. A shop that installs automatic car starters would be the best place to have the custom switch installed due to their common contact with the various vehicle wiring (not a dealership).

Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide. Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide.

whatever you do, REPLACE ONE AT A TIME! The wires are connected to the plugs in a certain order. If you pull all the wires off then you will need to get the wiring order to make sure you get the right plug to the right wire. Gently pull ONE plug wire off, twist it BUT do NOT yank on it. If they have been on there a long time, they tend to bond themselves to the plug. twisting usually can break them loose. There is a spark plug wire removal tool that grips the plug at the base if they won't some off. Once you get the wire off the plug, follow the wire up to the distributor, and remove the wire from the distributor and insert the new wire and loop it where the old one was. You will need a socket and ratchet to remove the spark plugs. Get a deep well socket and they actually make spark plug sockets.......I am not sure what size you need. Place the socket over the plug and ratchet it to the left to loosen. Be sure to have the socket securly on the plug, pr you could break the plug off. Once you loosen the plug simply unscrew it from the plug hole. Now take a new plug that has been gapped correctly. Check to see what the gap is for your type of plug. The plug must be gapped correctly to get it to fire correctly. You can buy plug gapping tools or feeler gauges. SOme are .35 some are .40 and some are 50. Know yours before you start, some come pregapped from the factory but I always recheck them using a gauge. Place some anti seize on the threads of the plug and START THE PLUG IN THE HOLE BY HAND.............. Do not place the plug in the ratchet and socket and try to fidn the hole. If you cross thread the hole, you will need to have it retapped before you can get the plug back in. Once you have the plug started by hand use the socket to continue to screw the plug into the hole, and then place the ratchett on it and tighten it but NOT TOO TIGHT! I would say snug and then just a bit more. Get some spark plug wire lubricant and smear it on the the inside of the wire boot that goes over th ehead of the plug. You can use dilectric grease as well............ and as you push down on the wire you should feel it sort of click or snap onto the top of the plug. That's one down...........now go to tanother and repeat. Biggest thing to remember is: Remove one wire and plug at a time Do not yank on the plug wires to get them off the plugs Make sure you get the socket on the plug squarely to remove it Maje sure your new plugs are gapped properly Use anti seize on your new plugs on the threads START the new plugs by hand Snug the plugs up do not overtighten Use spark plug wire grease or lubricant or dilectric grease Good luck

your engine will start but run badly on a multi cyl. ie. more than one only 1 plug may be down, not often more than 1 together

Check the fan belt it may be tight when cold and causes the whistle until it loosends up when it warms up during use. Can also be caused by the throttle body needing to be cleaned, carbon build up on the IAC motor

Simple trace your positive cable off your battery to a LILLTLE BOX AND THATS YOUR COIL. tAKE THE NEG OFF your battery. Then disconent all the hot wires on the coil then there should be a couple nuts holding it on the finder well take them off and replase it. Est. time 15 min.