Fog lights use special brackets which sit recessed on a 2001 Chevy Cavaliers bumper. To install the fog lights mount the units into the bumper brackets. Then splice the fog lights into the existing wire harness. Use a switch if necessary.
1st make sure that rear service brakes are adjusted properly Should be an adjustment at either the junction of the three cables under vehicle or at the handle itself (may have to remove plastic trim for access)
Caution:Some models are equipped with an anti-theft radio.Before disconnecting the battery cable make sure you have the activation code for the radio.
FRONT BUMPER
REAR BUMPER
Remove Headlight Housing assy above faulty Fog Light. Remove the two bolts that holds the Fog Light. From inside & behind the bumper, remove the big plastic nut. Pull out Fog Light assy & disconnect. Remove the three screws that holds the socket. Replace bulb (HB4 / 9006). Make sure it's working. Reinstall. Enjoy a nice cold beer...
Loosen the lugs slightly on the front passenger side of the car. raise the front passenger side of the car and remove the wheel. At the back of the wheel well are two pieces of plastic shrouding. They are held by one or two plastic pins. Using a screwdriver, pry out the center of the plastic pin, it should come all the way out. Then you can pry the outer sheath of the pin out of it's hole. The plastic shrouding can now be pulled out. Don't worry, there is not much to be damaged at this point. Now, make sure your car is stable. Scissor jacks do not mean stable. I admit I did it with a scissor jack, but I would recommend a good jack and a jack stand because you are gonna spend a bit of time under the brake rotor and if the car falls, you're most likely dead. Once the shrouding is removed you should be able to look up in there and see the alternator and the tensioner pulley. If you are confused as to which is which, there should be a diagram at the front of the engine compartment in front of the radiator that shows all of the pulleys and the routing of the serpentine belt. Now you need to remove the serpentine belt. Get a 14mm box end wrench and put it over the bolt on the tensioner pulley, the small pulley without tracks that is Slightly closer to the front of the car than the alternator. Tighten this bolt. This may seem counterintuitive if you have never done this before. But trust me. Rotate the bolt clockwise. This will release tension on the serpentine belt so you can pull the belt off of the alternator. After removing the belt, find two 13mm wrenches or ratchet attachments and remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of the alternator. Then remove the bolt at the top of the alternator. 13 or 14mm, I can't remember. Make sure you get the right one, it is just to the left of another more visible bolt that fastens the accessory above the alternator (can't remember what it is). After that bolt is removed you should be able to get back under the car and slide the alternator out of it's holding position. Now disconnect the alternator wires. This can be kinda trick as they are difficult to reach, and the main plug has a plastic latch holding it in place. Use an 8mm on the bolt holding the other wire. Now slide the alternator out through the wheel well. You may have to rotate it a bit to get it to come out of that hole. You're done. Go have kragen or some auto shop test it to make sure it's bad, and when you buy a new one, make them test that one too. It will save you so much time trying to figure out why your car is still not working right. Reverse the procedure to put the new one back in.
I was looking at one of Fords websites and it shows :
For a 1965 Ford Mustang , 3.3 liter / 200 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( .035 inch )
For a 1965 Ford Fairlane , 2.8 liter / 170 cubic inch ( .035 )
For a 1965 Ford F-100 , 4.9 liter / 300 cubic inch inline six cylinder ( medium duty is .030 and light duty is .035 )
So. without knowing which model and engine size it looks like ( .035 inch spark plug gap )
Book says: read warning about antifreeze 1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2. Drain the cooling system. 3. Remove the cooling fan 4. Detach the radiator hoses from radiator, disconnect coolant recovery hose, oil cooler lines and automatic transaxle models, disconnect and plug the fluid cooler lines. 5. On ac models, remove the condenser line retaining clips and the condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts. 6. Remove the radiator mounting bolts and lift from engine compartment. If new, transfer fittings from old unit. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. After reconnect all hoses and lines, refill with proper coolant mixter and the start engine to test for leaks.
There's no starter relay on the 1992 nisssan sentra, but there is a ignition relay which controls the starter and this should be located somewhere in the engine compartment where the relay box is
the starter location cannot hardly be seen from an engine overview, however if you 1st remove the battery then the air duct you will discover the starte/solenoid to the far left next to 3-4 sensors....
Well... There is not a flasher in the newer dodge trucks.
However there is a IPM(integrated power module) It is a solid state non-programable box behind the instrument cluster that controls the blink/emergency lights. This IPM is not user friendly and non-replaceable by a frustrated Dodge owner. After contacting Dodge dealers it sounds as if it is never supposed to go bad/burn out. AND...that you cannot replace the turn bulbs w/ aftermarket LED replacments. Unless of course you don't mind the super fast flash/blink...OR..you and a considerable load on the circuit to slow down the IPM and make it think it has the proper buls in place.
Answered by your friendly NAPA employees.
It is screewed into the side of the engine, just in front of the starter.
when you remove it coolant will come out of the engine. Just be fast about changing it and make sure engine is cold.
Yes, there is a diagram of a 1992 Toyota Corolla Engine. This diagram can be found in the cars specific maintenance manual, found in auto part stores.
Carefully pry up the tray in the top center of the dash.
Remove the one Philips head screw that you exposed under the tray.
Pull the frame assembly with the two A/c vents to the rear.
Caution: Do not remove the connector from the air bag light on the back of the frame. You may get a fault that you can't reset.
Remove 4 Philips head screws from the radio brackets.
Most likely .032, but check to be certain...I have a '91 B2200 and am assuming it to be the same.
Go to www.shareamemory.com/radio for $19.99 they provide directions. Go here for a free step by step instructions free: http://forums.vmag.com/mvquest1199/messages/363.html For free instructions, go here... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/112400-radio-display.html To recap: 1. Pull out drink holder out and remove two screws. 2. Pry the console out from the top, no need to completely remove. 3. Remove four screws holding the radio. 4. Disconnect 3 wire harnesses and antenna to remove radio. 5. Open radio face plate. 6. Open the top cover of radio. 7. Remove small circuit board inside radio to the left by bending 2 twisted tabs and remove one screw. 7. On bottom of circuit board, look for surface mount components R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064. 8. Resolder with small tip soldering iron. I resoldered all the joints while I was at it, just to be sure. Total time from getting the tools from the toolbox and clean everything up was less than 1 hour. Good Luck!! Some cases, you will need to replace the board of the CD/cass unit. This is due to a component in the LCD being fried, which can be seen by removing it from the system including the metal plate covering it. The component is in the lower-right corner (facing the display), and is locked within the LCD glass.
If the cable itself is still there get a pair of Vise Grip pliers and you should be able to pull it. If the cable is broken up inside the housing then you will need to remove the grill insert. I have a 92 Corsica and there were 4 screws that held this item in place. Reach up and move the lever that the small cable is attached and the hood should pop up as normal.
More than likely the loss of fuel or air. What year is the vehicle.
It could be the Crank Position Sensor on the front of the motor. easy change, 2 bolts and a electrical connector.
this truck is a2000
Above answer is good, however I run a wrecker company and most of the time when one of the 7.3's stopped, they were low on oil. Simple, but check the oil first. Fuel pump can also cause it, plus the above.
It is relatively simple for any car:
1) Disconnect the battery. This is incredibly important. Do not skip this step.
2) Disconnect the wiring from the back of the old alternator.
3) Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
3a) If the belt is serpentine look for a spring loaded tension pulley. Push on this and slip the belt off a convenient pulley. The entire belt will go slack.
3b) If you have individual belts the alternator should be mounted on a slotted bracket. Loosen the bolt to this bracket and the alternator should move so you can get the belt off.
4) Remove the old alternator. Depending on the car this is where it gets tricky. Sometimes they bury the thing so well you have to remove other parts of the engine to get it off. Take your time.
5) Insert the new alternator and replace anything else you had to take off.
6) Put the belt back on the alternator and tension it, if necessary.
7) Connect the wiring to the alternator
8) Reconnect the battery.
9) Take a measurement of the system voltage with the motor off.
10) start the motor.
11) Take a measurement of the system voltage. It should be around 14V. If your battery is very dead this may not be the case. Compare to the above measurement. If the voltage is rising to around 14V, it is working.
To get to the alternator, you have to get it from the bottom of the car. Make sure you disconnect the battery! I just did the job today (2-13-06) with another person. You don't need 2 people, but it helps tremendously. It's rather tight in some of the locations, but it's definitely workable.
First, you must remove the front passenger side wheel and place the car up on Jack stands. It helps to have the whole front elevated as you will be working underneath the car most of the time. Then remove the plastic guards that are behind the wheel. They are held in place by two plastic pins (the anchor type pins).
Once the car is up, refer to the diagram under the hood that gives the serpentine belt routing. You'll see the Tension wheel that you need to move. It's really easy to get to from the wheel axle level. Use a 14mm wrench (NOT A SOCKET!, it's too small of a space to fit the barrel of the socket). Grab onto the bolt head on the wheel and turn clockwise. The whole assembly then moves down, as it's on a spring. That will loosen the Serpentine belt. If you have another person, have them remove the serpentine belt from one of the pulleys as you are holding down the tension pulley. Once the belt is off, ease the tension pulley back into place. You can now pull the belt off all the pulleys.
The alternator is held in by two bolts. they are 13mm bolts, you can use a socket for these. The top bolt is harder to find and easier to reach and loosen if you do it from the bottom of the car. It takes time to loosen, but it can be done. The bottom is a long bolt with a nut on the end. You'll need a 13mm wrench and a 13mm socket for this. From under the car looking at the alternator, place the wrench on the left side of the bolt and the socket wrench on the right. The right side is a nut that holds the bolt in place. Remove the nut and pull the bolt out to the left.
Next, there is a plastic guard that protects the wiring. You can remove that by using a 10mm ratchet on the bolt that is on the left hand side (from underneath the car) of the alternator. it sits just above the grounding wire. Remove that bolt. If you have someone helping, have them reach through the top of the car and hold the alternator in place while pushing the guard up. It is also held by a little clip, so if you push up you'll unlatch it. Pull the guard off and set aside.
Next, remove the grounding wire on the side with a 10mm socket wrench. Then unclasp the clip holding the wiring to the alternator with a flat head screw driver. You'll see how the clip is removed when you see it.
Next, remove the alternator. It may be stuck in place, so have someone come from the top or from the bottom to pound one of the sides where the long bolt was. Once free, remove it through the wheel well.
Once you have this done, just reverse the directions to install the new one. It's fairly easy once you've removed it, to see how it's done.
Hook up the battery and start the car!
Answer[removed dupe]
For AC Delco spark plugs part number FR5LS or equivalent, the correct gap is .035 (GM Specifications). If using AC Delco RapidFire #5 plugs, the gap is .045 (can be used for: FR3LS, FR3LS6, FR2LS, 41-603, FR3LSJ, FR4LSJ, and FR5LS)
The venerable leaf spring, which some manufacturers still use in rear suspensions today, was invented by Obadiah Elliot of London in 1804. He simply piled one steel plate on top of another, pinned them together and shackled each end to a carriage.
When_were_leaf_springs_invented
I have a 2003 nissan frontier crew cab xe 4x4 off road package. looks like mine has two but i'm not sure
As long as it is the manufacturer's recommended viscosity of 5w-30 the brand doesn't matter.
It should take 1.5 hours to do the intake, assuming a rate of $99 an hour for labor plus parts it should be around $200. It should take one half hour for the EGR valve but the part is expensive so around $300 total for that.