You must check the coolant level in your radiator and reservoir. Low coolant levels can lead to overheating. If it's low, you may have a coolant leak that needs to be repaired. Good luck!

83xbrThe answer is that you can't adjust the idle speed on any car since the 80s, because the Feds mandated a design that allows only automotive shops to do that. If you need to increase your idle speed, you can cheat by finding the throttle cable linkage at the carb or throttle body. There should be a flat piece of metal to which the throttle cable is attached. The metal is hinged and spring loaded usually. When you step on the gas, the piece of metal hinges away from the carb/throttle body. The piece of metail serves as a stop when it hinges back to the carb/throttle body. Wrap a zip-tie or some other relatively thin material around the flat piece of metal and you will artificially keep it from returning to the lowest idle point. Use materials of differing thicknesses until you achieve the idle speed you want.

Lower radiator hose.

It may be easier to use the drain plug located on the left hand side of the radiator. Its on the back of the radiator. Do not mistake the heater core for the radiator. The radiator is the one with the thick rubber hoses.

To take off the lower radiator hose you have to remove the air filter box.

This was a common problem on mid to late 80s' GM cars...The torque converter lock up clutch does not disengage and when you put the gearselector into drive the Torque converter clutch stops the motor.

The test for this problem is to put the drive wheels up in the air-put the car in gear and see if the motor kills. If not then the Torque converter clutch is stuck.. The simplest repair is to unplug the Torque converter plug on the outside of the transmission then the Torque converter clutch will usually disengage.

If you could tell me what make/model/year and motor that you have i can be more specific.

Hope that helps..

Good luck.

I would look up inside the fender in front of the pass. side wheel. Or drivers wheel, check your fuse> I remember Tempos were bad for the harness behind steering wheel and plugged in under steering column, it was a part the dealer kept in stock. .

If it has one, it is inside the car on the firewall about 18 inches up from the floor on the pass side. The fuel shut off switch is located on the passenger side rear fender. Well, in the trunk of the hatchbacks, and same location for wagons. You will see a little door in the trunk, on the right side, about 1-2ft above floor. Open this door, and see if the switch was faulted. This can happen from sudden impacts (like hitting a shopping cart, like i did), or maybe you took off or slowed down too fast. I would consider checking this. If you hear your fuel pump whining when you turn on your ignition, i would probably have someone check it out.

The PGM-FI unit is located under carpet at the passenger side. It covered by frame. Good luck. The ignition control module of any late model Honda/Acura product is always the PGMFI computer, which controls all fuel delivery and ignition timing coordination. Now, if you have a problem, that is ignition related, first replace the plugs, then the wires, and shortly after the ign coil itself. That's how you approach a Honda ign prob.

Prior to 1994, R-12 was the refrigerant freon. It should likely be recharged with the same, or have a shop fully empty the unit, and check it for compatibility with the later freon.

If the system is discharged, you'll also need to have it pressure-checked for leaks. Remember, in most states, discharging the unit will cost you a fairly large fine, if not done according to EPA standards.

You'll also need to change the condensor/drier for the AC unit, as leaks in the system, or recharges need the dessicant refreshed. R-12 seems to be a 'colder' refrigerant at a lower pressure, but requires some fairly special handling, and may be more expensive due to the treaties on Freon use.

Remove the wneels then the drum retainer that holds the drum on while it is on the assy line. Then pull the drums off. If the shoes have worn into the drums you have to retract the shoes to let the drums come off. If they are sticking on the center, sometimes heat is required to get them loose.

Remove the wheels then the drums should just slide off. If they are rusted on, WD40 and a hammer should do it. If the shoes have scored the drums, you have to retract the shoes first. If you can't do that you can pry the drums off and ruin the springs and fittings. You have to replace them and know how they go if you do that.

check the timing belt if it has broken or stripped its teeth this would cause a complete breakdown u can check this by removing the cover on the end of the engine.there are electrical issues therse would need checking 2 generally its to do with the earths the earth wires in and around the engine bay if and when they give trouble they can cause a non start.if not you will need to get your car to a garge so they can put it on a diagnostic machine .

You can start by looking at GreatLakesXJ.com/tech.html. Be sure to give a donation so they can keep their wonderful document library open. You'll find the factory manual and parts catalogs there.

There is no starter relay on an Escort. The main battery positive cable goes directly to the starter. A small wire with a clip on it marked s goes to the solenoid. The main battery current to the starter is supplied with this solenoid.

The radio antenna is a fine wire imbedded in the windshield. If your radio doesn't pull in any stations, but you get static then probably the cable came out of the back of the radio. If you recently got a new windshied it may have not had the antenna. You should be an antenna at an auto parts store and install it on the front fender.

There are many issues that can make a car sputter when accelerating. For instance, the sparks plugs may need to be replaced. Another issue could be that the exhaust could be clogged or there could be a bad injector.

Hey Amy==It depends on the make, and which engine you have. I would check the bolts on the a/c compressor, and the belt for correct tension and if it is a serpentine belt check it for cracks and brittelness. Goodluck. Joe

• disconnect battery cables
• drain the cooling system
• remove drive belt (4 cyl) or water pump drivebelt (6 cyl)
• (4 cyl instructions)
• remove right front wheel and splash guard
• remove water pump pulley
• remove bolts attaching water pump to engine block and then remove pump. if stuck tap w/ rubber mallet
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (6 cyl)
• remove air filter housing
• remove water pump drivebelt tensioner
• remove water pump mounting bolts and water pump
• clean the bolt threads, remove all gasket (w/ sandpaper, or removal tool) scrap off sealent.
• (last steps for both models)
• apply rtv sealant, gasket
• mate pump to housing
• install bolts (89 in-lbs torque)
• reinstall belt, fill cooling system, reattach battery
  

might be your catalytic converter being plugged up. An exhaust leak, bad head gasket, cracked head, clogged air filter, low compression, timing off, bad spark plugs. The 2.5 is a high compression engine, not enough back pressure in the exhaust will cause a drop in performance, via low compression in the 2 middle cylinders. The cat going bad or getting clogged up will also cause black puffs out of the exhaust, when it is very bad the car will stall and you will have to hold the gas pedal down to get it started and at stops to keep it running.

On many cars it was built into the headlight switch, which was a knob on the dashboard, you pull it outward to turn the headlights on, you twist it clockwise to make the dash lights brighter, counterclockwise to dim them.

finger

wishbones

I am not 100% sure, but, may have a small black foam filter about 2cm square in the main air filter housing with a pipe leading down to the face of the engine block (front of engine under manifold). There you should find a small black box bolted to the block, this will receive the hose from the air filter housing. Inside this there will be a valve.This assembly is called the oil separator. All these parts make the PCV valve system (positive crankase ventilation)

To test - clean foam filter with methylated spirits. Remove oil separator and small valve. Valve should rattle when shaken. Flush out valve and separator with Carb cleaner. Check gasket, renew if necessary. Replace in reversal of removal.

It would do no harm to clean your EGR pipe and valve with carb cleaner whilst doing this.

N.B the PCV valve is under the exhaust manifold and access id HARD. So you may want to remove the manifold first.

Buy a haynes manual aswell this will help if you have the older Pulse Air system and not the EGR valve as associated pipe work makes getting to the PCV valve difficult. Hope this help. Not a difficult job, just take care and time.