To ensure you are using the correct rating of fuse simply divide the total wattage of your appliance by 250 and round up to the closest value. For example, a 1500 watt hair dryer should be fitted with a fuse equal to 1500 divided by 250 = 7amp
30 Amps. Find your dryer identification plate and it should tell you the Amperage Rating. It is typically a black plate with silver text. You can also examine the old fuse and rating should be on the fuse.
The fuse size you should use for a dryer is 30 amps.
In North America the most common circuit breaker for a clothes dryer is a two pole 30 amp breaker.
Don't understand this question. If the breaker is on, then the dryer would function normally, if the breaker your are referring to is the one for the dryer. If the breaker is off then no function. A dryer runs on 220.
If the circuit breaker to a dryer, or to any load, keeps getting hot and trips the breaker, then either the load is pulling too much current or there is a loose connection in the breaker or breaker panel. Either condition must be fixed to reduce the risk of fire.
It should be in the main circuit panel. If the dryer was added at some point there may be a separate box just for the dryer either beside the main panel or at the dryer plug. It is not in the dryer itself.
If you are referring to a cloths dryer, the answer depends on the requirements of the dryer. Most dryers require AWG#10 wire with a 30 amp fuse. If the wiring is AWG#12 then use a 20 amp breaker but never use it on AWG#10 which requires a 30 amp breaker. If you are referring to a hair dryer then yes a 20 amp breaker is fine.
The short answer is no. First off I assume you mean "can you have a dryer and an electric range on the same circuit?" (If they were actually wired in series, then you couldn't use your range if the dryer was off) In theory you could have them on the same circuit you just need to make sure that the wiring and the circuit they are on can handle the number of amps the two of them could draw together. If your breaker isn't big enough, it kill the power to the range while you are cooking dinner. If the wiring can't handle the load, then there is a fire risk. A dryer is usually on a 30amp circuit and a range is usually on a 50amp circuit, so to have them together would require an 80amp circuit, which will be difficult to find a breaker and wiring for.
Don't understand this question. If the breaker is on, then the dryer would function normally, if the breaker your are referring to is the one for the dryer. If the breaker is off then no function. A dryer runs on 220.
Typical residential electric dryers are on 30 amp circuits, which means 10 gage copper wire. The circuit breaker should match the dryer cord rating, generally 30 amps.
If the circuit breaker to a dryer, or to any load, keeps getting hot and trips the breaker, then either the load is pulling too much current or there is a loose connection in the breaker or breaker panel. Either condition must be fixed to reduce the risk of fire.
It should be in the main circuit panel. If the dryer was added at some point there may be a separate box just for the dryer either beside the main panel or at the dryer plug. It is not in the dryer itself.
If you are referring to a cloths dryer, the answer depends on the requirements of the dryer. Most dryers require AWG#10 wire with a 30 amp fuse. If the wiring is AWG#12 then use a 20 amp breaker but never use it on AWG#10 which requires a 30 amp breaker. If you are referring to a hair dryer then yes a 20 amp breaker is fine.
In North America the standard sizes for breakers are 15, 20, 30, and 40 amps. The 15 amp size breaker is used in general circuit wiring. The 20 amp size breaker is used for dedicated appliance receptacles, hot water tank and baseboard heating. The 30 amp size breaker is used for a clothes dryer. The 40 amp size breaker is used for the electric range.
The short answer is no. First off I assume you mean "can you have a dryer and an electric range on the same circuit?" (If they were actually wired in series, then you couldn't use your range if the dryer was off) In theory you could have them on the same circuit you just need to make sure that the wiring and the circuit they are on can handle the number of amps the two of them could draw together. If your breaker isn't big enough, it kill the power to the range while you are cooking dinner. If the wiring can't handle the load, then there is a fire risk. A dryer is usually on a 30amp circuit and a range is usually on a 50amp circuit, so to have them together would require an 80amp circuit, which will be difficult to find a breaker and wiring for.
First thing I'd check is the fuse box. My dryer would sort of warm the clothes, but take forever to dry them. It turned out I had a weak circuit breaker. It would trip, but not vigorously enough to trip the counterpart that was connected to it. It looked like it was on, but it wasn't. Cycling the circuit breakers was good for a couple loads, then it would stop working again. I replaced the circuit breaker and never had another problem.
Could be but you could also have a weak breaker that will no longer hold the load of your dryer. That is if your talking about your dryer breaker tripping. If your "main breaker" is tripping you have a different problem. Call an electrician in that case. A plugged up dryer shouldn't be tripping your main
Gas or electric? Electric: Unclean or clogged internal filter or filter air supply lines, or exhaust vent lines. Breaker in electrical panel half blown. Heater element or protector fuse bad.
I beleve mine blew do to a lose power connectionn at the circuit board. These are the press on connections.
The only practical way to do that would be to sell the electric clothes dryer and use the proceeds toward purchase of a gas dryer. Even if it was possible to convert the dryer the cost would be prohibitive versus a new dryer. If you mean converting the building, then you would need to have natural gas plumbing installed, and you would need an outlet that matches the voltage of the new dryer.