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Check your battery cables before you do anything expensive to it. If the cables are damaged, this could cause it to die while driving it. Also look at the battery connectors and check for any type of corrosion. Dirty connectors will also cause the engine to die. Hope this helps. - Clean temrinals and good wiring is always a must. A little vaseline will avoid terminal corrosion (any vehicle, not jst Ford !!) 3.0 liter Taurus has known ICM problem - Ignition Control Module - even a recall was out for this issue - ICM mounts to Distributor base, runs hotter than the motor - the ICM dies early. My issue was stalling after 2 hours freeway driving - would stall after pulling out for break or gas - OBD codes were 111 (KOEO) and after engine restarts (post cool down of 15-20 minutes, hood open) was also 111 (KOER). These are 'nothings wrong' codes. I did notice that there was NO spark when stalled, but fuel pressure was there and injectors clicked while cranking (stethescope). I added a 2" * 28" 'preheat duct' tube from behind left head light to an inch or so behind the ICM/distributor base. I haven't stalled since I did this. Tube cost, Napa Auto, was less than $10.00. If anyone else tries this and they might be in a traffic congested area, might want to add a 12VDC PC CPU cooling fan - aobut anoher $10-12. 3.8 liter motor's ICM is remote (to the ditributor) mounted to avoid the heat issue.

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Q: Why would a 1995 Ford Taurus stall when I am driving it I then have to let it sit for a while before it will start again. I just bought it a few weeks ago. Before that it it wasn't driven for 6 month?
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