Fiberglass Duct Board is cheaper to install than Sheet Metal Ducts. This is definitely the choice of most builders if you don't know any better.
Your Air Distribution Duct System should look like a tree ... comprised of a Main Trunk and Branch lines from that trunk. The trunk should bet smaller as it passes every several branches in order to maintain the pressure. Each branch line should have a manual damper (valve) to regulate the volume for balancing. Then you can eliminate hot and cold spots. All joints should be sealed with mastic and UL 181 rated tape.
The biggest problem is that while it may look good, its structure gets less rigid (spongy) and interior lining is disgusting after just a few years of normal use. It's literally falling apart after 5 years. Almost every client of mine whose home has a duct board (did I say cheap) system complains of Allergies and excessive dust.
The only benefit is that when you finally decide to install a safer, more reliable, once-in-a-lifetime metal system, the duct board system can usually be removed in less than an hour with just a knife. Then it is placed in trash bags to remove it from the house without getting airborne particles everywhere.
The only good use is when you want to line a return (with the foil side facing you) for additional insulation purposes.
The only thing worse than ductboard is a duct system made of Flexible main trunks connected to small duct board triangles being used for sub-distribution into smaller areas.Whoever dreamed that one up was really looking to rip you off. mrgeothermal.com
1" Duct Board has an R-Value of 4.3
With duct tape I install and maintain duct work for a living if you want to seal the joints just wrap the tape around the duct. If you need to cover a hole you will need to screw a piece of metal on the duct over the hole and tape over the edges of your patch. this is the simplest and cheapest way I know to do it.
There are three main types of air ducts: sheet metal, pre-insulated, and flexible duct work. Sheet metal air ducts can be made of galvanized steel or aluminum, and may be insulated inside or outside with fiberglass. There are pre-insulated air ducts, which are relatively inexpensive to install, made of fiberglass duct board, polyurethane foam panels, or phenolic foam panels. Air ducts can also be flexible ducts, made of flexible plastic over a wire coil.
to install pipes in attic or under floors depending on what type house you have,to pipe in a/c or heat whichever it may be
The air is returning at a lower velocity, so you need a larger size duct.
1" Duct Board has an R-Value of 4.3
No, you should not use a humidifier in a main trunk line that is made out of duct board. This will cause the duct board to rot from the moist.
Make a bulkhead or install a drop ceiling
If your apartment does not have duct work, the owner of the building has not had it installed. Perhaps they felt it would be too costly to install, or perhaps they are simply not interested in or see a need for duct work.
Duct Tape
rubber cement, tacky glue, duct tape
Buy the register, trace out the the hole for the part of it that will penetrate the duct, cut the hole and install the register then screw it in.
With duct tape I install and maintain duct work for a living if you want to seal the joints just wrap the tape around the duct. If you need to cover a hole you will need to screw a piece of metal on the duct over the hole and tape over the edges of your patch. this is the simplest and cheapest way I know to do it.
The center vent, or defrost duct.
If your talking Air Conditioning/Heating then yes it is approved and is the standard.
There are three main types of air ducts: sheet metal, pre-insulated, and flexible duct work. Sheet metal air ducts can be made of galvanized steel or aluminum, and may be insulated inside or outside with fiberglass. There are pre-insulated air ducts, which are relatively inexpensive to install, made of fiberglass duct board, polyurethane foam panels, or phenolic foam panels. Air ducts can also be flexible ducts, made of flexible plastic over a wire coil.
This depends on the total sq. footage, proper duct size, and how well the structure is insulated. As a general rule of thumb you should have 1ton for every 500sq ft. of space, so given this if it is well insulated go with the 1.5, if not go with the 2. With the given formula a structure that is 750sq. ft. and well insulated should be very economical with the 1.5ton. But if the same structure is poorly insulated a 2ton would be the most economical. This is just a quick response due to the fact of not knowing all the variables such as existing duct size and shape, along with several other factors.