What do the shutter speed and aperture sizes both control?
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Try this page for a nice simple explanation, http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/shutterandaperture.php good luck, and good photos!
Shutter speed does not, of itself, control motion. The recorded images of moving objects will be less or more sharp depending on the shutter speed and the speed of the objects… across the field of view.
Each controls the amount of light allowed into the camera [exposure] Shutter speed required governs aperture setting. eg if you want to take a scenic picture good depth of fie…ld is required to capture clarity in fore,middle and back grounds. Here you need longer exposure by way of slower shutter speed. To compensate for slow shutter speed you will need to narrow down the aperture to prevent over exposure, think of the aperture as the iris in your eye,depending on the light your eye needs for a clear image to the brain so the iris will expand or contract to widen or narrow the pupil. In the case of a close up you will need shorter shutter speed and wider aperture. This is a thumb-nail sketch only. Putting the above into practice is something else,thats why the little automatics are so popular. But you get it right with a manual and you cannot believe the superiority of the manual over the auto.The down side of the manual ? you don't get it right as often as you'd like
Aperture (the physical size of the lens opening) and shutter speed together control the amount of exposure, the total light that is allowed to strike the film or sensor. …You'd want the aperture and shutter speed interconnected to control either motion stopping power or depth of field (you have to choose one over the other). For example: given a certain ISO and a fixed light level, assume that you or the camera have metered the scene and the amount of exposure is correct at, let's say, 1/125 second (shutter) at f/8.0 (aperture). Your shutter speed and aperture can be interconnected to get equivalent exposures at 1/250 @ f/5.6; or 1/500 @ f/4.0; or going the other way you'd get an equivalent exposure at 1/60 @ f/11 or 1/30 @ f/16. All the exposures listed are equal , even though they all sound different. The aperture and shutter are interconnected in that, as the aperture gets larger to admit more light, the shutter speed gets faster to limit the amount of time the light is admitted. So why bother? Because there are two other factors involved. One is what we call depth of field, which is defined as the area in front of and behind a subject focused upon that appears also to be sharp. Depth of field increases with smaller apertures (the f/8.0, f/11 and f/16 of the example). So if you're shooting a very tight close-up of a flower, where depth of field is very limited due to close focus, you might choose the 1/30 @ f/16 option, but at that slow shutter with a close up subject you might also want to mount the camera on a tripod. But let's say you're shooting skateboarders at the park. You're focused fairly far away so depth of field isn't terribly important, and in fact you'd want the depth of field relatively shallow to emphasize the skateboarder in the air, where you'd be much more likely to freeze him at 1/500 @ f/4.0. (Remember that these are just arbitrary examples.) On the other side of the coin, you don't want the shutter and aperture to be interconnected when the light level is changing, or the ISO, or both. Your hand held or in camera meter will select a different combination of shutter and aperture for a correct exposure, and if you have the option of controlling both, you can still select for greater depth of field or motion stopping.
Yes. Sensitivity of the film is also a factor in correct exposure, as are the processing conditions, though the latter are less significant as a variable in a very tightly con…trolled repeatable process (as in machine processing of color films under tight certification controls).. A "correct" exposure can be any equivalent combination of shutter speed and aperture settings; for example, an exposure of f/8 at 1/125 second is equivalent to f/16 at 1/60 second or f/22 at 1/30 second.
Switch to manual mode. Usually you turn the model dial to "M".
aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light while iso refers to the sensitivity of the film or sensor to light.
How would you set the ISO for shutter speed and aperture for correct exposure on a rainy day and why?
The ISO speed, shutter, and aperture are all interconnected. There is never necessarily one "correct" setting for all 3. However, if you're not shooting on a tripod, you proba…bly want to set your shutter speed to 1/60 to reduce camera shake. To eliminate grain, you may want to keep your ISO below 400. It may be cloudy on a rainy day, so you may be able to shoot at f/8 or f/11. Of course, on most digital cameras you could select a shutter priority (meaning the camera will adjust the aperture for correct exposure at a shutter speed of 1/60) and then set your ISO to 400. The camera will automatically meter the scene and set the aperture correctly.
An introduction to Shutter Speed and Aperture: Both of the above variables help control the amount of light that reaches the film (or in a digital camera, the CCD sensor), h…owever they have differing affects on the resultant photograph. The shutter is a sheet that moves to uncover or obscure the film or CCD and normally obstructs the passage of light. The aperture is a hole in an optical diaphragm which can be varied in size to alter the amount of light entering the lens (a lot like the pupil and iris of a human eye). In general to maintain a good exposure, if you lengthen the shutter speed (allowing more time for light to reach the film or sensor) you must decrease the aperture size (to allow less light into the lens in the first place) and vice versa. Mathematical Relationship: In photography and other branches of optics, the aperture size of a given lens is often described as an F-ratio or F-stop number. This is the ratio of the aperture diameter to the focal length of the specific lens. This is expressed as N F = F / D A Where: N F = F-Number F = Focal length of lens D A = Aperture Diameter As such the mathematical relationship between shutter speed and aperture diameter is directly proportional (when the shutter speed gets higher, the aperture must get larger to maintain correct exposure) and the mathematical relationship between the shutter speed and F-stop number is inversely proportional (as the shutter speed decreases, the F-Stop number must increase - meaning that the aperture diameter is decreasing to avoid over exposing the image). This is known as a reciprocal relationship. However, when the shutter is slowed down beyond a certain point or the effective shutter speed is made extremely fast (via the use of strobe lighting), the purely mathematical relationship fails. This is known as reciprocity failure. Rather than explain it here, search for the question "What is reciprocity failure" (hopefully, no one changes the wording of the question). Their use in photography: Fast shutter speeds will "freeze" the object in the frame whereas slow shutter speeds will cause moving objects to blur (which can be a very effective technique when photographing flowing water / waterfalls). A very low shutter speed will actually cause moving objects to disappear from a photograph totally and is a common technique used by architectural photographers to ensure that moving people or vehicles do not appear in photographs of buildings. A small aperture (higher F number) will create greater depth of field, which is the distance in front and behind the point of interest which is being focused on. This is useful in landscape photography where you wish to include detail in the whole of the image. A large aperture (lower F number) will greatly reduce the depth of field, meaning that less distance in front and behind the point of focus will be sharp. This is very commonly used in portrait and wildlife photography where you wish to isolate the subject of interest from the potentially distracting background. Please see the related links.
Aperture is hole that shutter creates to let in light to compose your image. The bigger the aperture, or smaller the f-stop (f/2), lets in more light. The shutter speed is how… fast the shutter opens and closes. This has a major part to do with the lighting and whether the motion in your picture will freeze or blur. A high shutter speed (1/4000) will freeze all motion but majorily decrease light.
Each of these directly effect the overall exposure. Aperture adjusts the size of the opening that lets light comes through. The bigger the opening, the more light that hits… the film (or sensor). Shutter Speed adjusts the amount of time that light is allowed to travel through the Aperture. A shutter that is open twice as long lets in twice the light. . ( Thinking of it another way ) Let's imagine water instead of light. To create a correct exposure, you need to fill a bucket with water. You want to fill the bucket to the top without overflowing. Adjusting Aperture is like adjusting the size of a water hose. A bigger hose allows more water to travel through. . f2.8 hose = 8 gallons/minute . f4 hose = 4 gallons/minute . f5.6 hose = 2 gallons/minute Adjusting Shutter Speed is like turning the hose on and off, leaving it open for an exact amount of time. To fill a 4 gallon bucket you can: . use a f2.8 hose for 0.5 minutes . or use a f4 hose for 1 minute . or use a f5.6 hose for 2 minutes If the bucket (your calculated exposure) is not filled to the top, then the image will be too dark. If the bucket is overflowing, then the image will be too bright. The size of the opening and the amount of time it is open both directly effect the outcome.
The lower the film speed the more light (aperture) and time (shutter speed) you need to penetrate the film emulsion that contains the reactive chemicals that produce the negat…ive to get a proper exposure, because lower speed film tends to have a thicker emulsion and more of those chemicals. The whole point of higher speed film is that it has a thinner emulsion, thus reducing the amount of light and time needed to produce the same image, but the typical result is "graining" because there are simply less reactive chemicals in the emulsion. With lower speed film the sooner you'll need a flash to compensate for the lack of light. As an aside, the principle is similar in digital cameras, where the higher "ISO" results in digital graining, called "noise".
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the camera's shutter (which lets the light coming in through the lens onto the film/chip inside the camera) is open. Aperture is the s…ize of the opening inside that lets the light in. Both affect the amount of light entering the camera to result in an exposure - the longer the shutter is open and the wider the aperture, the more light that is coming in. Aperture also affects the depth of field of the image, so a wide open aperture such as f/2.8 will let in a lot of light and have a shallow depth of field.
You can set the Long Shutter speed. In Manual mode, select Â±0 then Disp. You can scroll between 1" and 15". I think 1"3 means 1.3 seconds.
Aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light that passes from the lens to the film or digital sensor of a camera. Aperture is the size of the opening within the lens…. The lower the f-stop number (1.4 for example) the larger the opening and the more light is passed through. Shutter speed is closely related. It is the amount of time that the lens is open. The combination of the size of the opening in the lens and the amount of time that the lens is open determine the exposure.
Aperture limits the amount of light that can reach the film (or sensor). The larger the aperture the greater the depth of field (subjects in the distance will be in focus). Th…e smaller the aperture, the more shallow the depth of field. Traditional style portraiture requires a shallow depth of field so only the subject is in focus, blurring out everything in the background. Shutter speed refers to the duration in which the film (or sensor) is exposed to light. As a photographer, you have to find that balance between aperture and shutter speed in order to achieve your desired effect. Generally, the wider the aperture, the faster the shutter speed needs to be.
On a manually-operated camera exposures can be made or manipulated with the shutter speed and the aperture one of these controls the output of the flash do you know which one?
The answer is Aperture. The Shutter Speed does not affect Flashoutput. You can prove this by setting up a camera with a flash in aroom where you can control the lighting. Phot…ograph an object inthe room until you determine the best flash exposure...such as F5.6, F 8, etc. Now that you know the F stop (aperture) that allowsthe proper amount of flash, turn off the room lights so that thereis virtually no ambient light in the room. Leaving your camera setto the correct aperture (F stop), take different exposures bychanging the shutter speed each time while not changing theaperture. You will see for yourself that the flash exposure is thesame with each exposure even if you try one shutter speed at 1/60and another at 1/2 second. The shutter speeds would only make adifference in the overall exposure if there was existing ambientlight...then the exposure would become light or darker depending onthe shutter speed. With a slower shutter speed the scene would bebrighter as more ambient light was taken in, but the shutter speeddid not affect the flash, only the ambient light.