Typically yes because that is what makes sense. However, the subpanel could have the same size breaker as long as the panel were rated for that amperage and the wire sizes were appropriate.
no main circuit breker =circuit breaker
voltage is devided only in series circuit and is the same at the parallel circuit
By Kirchhoff's Voltage Law, the sum of the voltage drops around the series circuit will equal the voltage applied to the circuit.
KCL (Kirchoff's Current Law) applies to any circuit, not just parallel circuits. The sum of the currents entering a node will always equal the sum of the currents leaving the node. KVL states that the sum of the voltages around a closed loop is always zero.
A short circuit is a low resistance connection where one is unexpected. It causes a diversion of current from the intended load, and, since it is usually a higher than expected current, it often causes the protective device (fuse, circuit breaker, or relay control logic) to trip.
The total resistance in a series circuit is determined by adding (summing) the individual resistances of each component in the circuit.
First of all, circuit breakers are rated in amps, not horsepower. Theequivalent between HP and electricity is 1 HP = 746 watts. That is a 1 HP motor requires 746 watts of power to operate it , regardless of the voltage. If you have a 250 amp circuit breaker, it is likely the main breaker to your residential panel. (?) The potential HP the panel could provide could be determined by multiplying the 250 amps times the panels voltage (208,220, 240) and divide the sum by 746.
You need to calculate how much the total current is likely to be at any moment. It's probable that the total load will be less than the sum of the individual breakers, 200 amps, but how much less depends on local conditions.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
For a series circuit, the applied voltage equals the sum of the voltage drops
The sum of all the power drops in a series circuit must equal
The main breaker limits the overall current to the building. Most buildings have many branch circuits that sum to more current than the service is rated for. This is not a problem as all the branch circuits are not used under high current draws at the same time. The main breaker protects the main wiring in the meter and to the transformer, and the transformer itself, from heavy current loads. It also protects from shorts in the main distribution panel.
The purpose of a fuse is to open an electronic circuit when current flow exceeds a certain amount, determined by the rating of the fuse. Opening a circuit under high current conditions can save electronic components from damaged and prevents overheating, which could cause a fire.
You would size the generator to match the main breaker size rather than on the sum of all the breakers. The main breaker size depends on the specific model of the circuit breaker panel - 100 Amps is typical for a house. The main breaker protects the circuit panel's bus bars from overheating, and the bus bar size is what limits the maximum power through the panel. Power = Volts x Amps, so a 100 Amp panel at 240 Volts could be operated by a 24,000 Watt (24 kW) generator. That's a pretty big generator in household terms, so often only a subset of the circuits would be allocated to the generator. Or, you just be careful not to turn everything on when using the generator. The actual Watts used depends on what's turned on, not the generator size or total capacity of all the circuit breakers. If you turn on too much stuff with an undersized generator, the generator's overload protection will trip and cut it off. Or if you load all the circuit breakers to capacity the main breaker will trip. In addition to these basic considerations there are a considerable amount of electrical codes governing connecting a generator to your house. The major one is to have a switch that prevents connecting your generator to the utility input, which precludes you from inadvertently energizing the utility lines.
The four things that show a force is balanced are as follows : SUM ( F sub x ) = 0.0 N SUN ( F sub y ) = 0.0 N SUM ( F sub z ) = 0.0 N SUM ( moments ) = 0.0 N - m
Total amps or calculated load has nothing to do with the number of breakers and their sizes. It is more complicated than adding the sum of the breakers, if you do that you will see that they would exceed 200 amps.It is based on square footage for the general receptacle and lighting loads,3000 watts is allowed for small appliances and this is just the beginning.Some experienced electricians have trouble with the calculations.If you are trying to see if you have enough capacity for an addition or some upgraded equipment,and you have breaker space,the chances are you will be O.K. Overloading the service would cause the main to trip.
Yes, if the circuit breaker and the wiring is large enough to carry the sum of the amp draw of all. Without knowing what will be plugged into the outlets, there is no way to be more specific. <<>> It is recommended to use a dedicated circuit for a garbage disposal. It is best not to add any additional loads to kitchen counter receptacles as these are also dedicated circuits.
True...!