If you need 220v 3-phase power how many wires are required coming in from the transformer or power pole and what are the voltages or potential purposes of each wire load 110v load 220v neutral ground?
In 120/208V 3 phase system you have 5 wires: three hots, one neutral, and one ground. You have 208V between any two hots and 120V between any hot and neutral. The neutral is the same as in a single phase system. Clarification: Only 4 wires maximum come from the pole - 3 phases and a neutral, and then only if the transformers are on the pole. The ground is always locally derived from a ground rod(s) and/or cold water pipe ground. Most of the time, only 3 wires come in from the pole - the 3 phases in a Delta configuration (Delta has no neutral). The neutral is then derived from a local transformer connected in a Delta-Wye setup. The neutral is the center connection in the Wye. So, from the utility feeder to the transformer - 3 wires. From the transformer (wherever it is located) to the building service entrance panel - 4 wires. The ground is connected at the service entrance panel, and from there to the rest of the building you would have all 5 wires. Clear? In the US, 208/120 is a standardized mains voltage, but in some parts of the world, the phase-to-phase voltage is 220. In that case, the phase-to-neutral potential (in a 3-phase system) would be 127 Volts, not 120.
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Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service. THHN 6 gauge is rated at 75 amps at 240. I ran it through a 2 1/2' conduit and it works great. You will n…eed a real wire puller to get it through though, this fishline or string stuff just won't pull 4 stands of 6 gauge around any corners at all. I would recommend 6ga for runs under 75ft, 4ga for under 150, and 2 for under 225. Ok #6 is good for 65 Amp @ 75degC. I know the table for thhn wire shows #6 is good for 75 Amp @ 90degC. But you can not use that column. You have to use the 75degC column. The reason for using the 75degC column is the terminations (wire lugs) (circuit breakers) (wire nuts) (etc.) are only rated 75degC. not 90degC. You have to use the weakest link as the max. If one of the terminals in the circuit were rated 60degC then #6 thhn wire would be good for 55amp @ 60degC. You must not run hotter than the rating! (by - tbcguy) I am a Licensed Electrician, and have been in the trade for 22 yrs. As mentioned above you Cannot use the 90degC column for the above mentioned reasons. ** Also note the 65amp rating is the maximum @ the 75degC column, but the STANDARD size "Breaker" is 60 amps, so you would drop down the rating of the 6 awg wire to 60a maximum load. < As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. . Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. .
In order to safely run 30 amps of electricity, a minimum of a #10gauge wire is needed. For longer runs of wire, #8 gauge is better.
Quick answer is that 220v does not use or need a neutral. The original concept of the neutral (going back to Edison and DC power) was cutting the power in half (not really acc…urate but one way to look at it). Think about two 110v batteries in series the neutral would come off the connection between the two batteries. so current flow would go from +110 to -110 (first battery) to +110 to -110 (second battery) resulting in 220 output. The connection between the batteries (the neutral) is +110 / -110 resulting in 0. If you want a 110 current instead of using the full flow you could instead use only 'one side' and the neutral and get the 110. When we made the move from DC to AC the basics of this format was kept. So for 110v you need hot and neutral (and a ground) for 220v you need two hots (no neutral) and a ground. HUGE CATCH - WARNING - WARNING!!! Just because you think your equipment is 220v doesn't mean everything it does it does requires 220v for example: some equipment uses 220v for the motor and 110v for the rest of its electrical needs (Dryers are a typical example). In the old days, the dryer would use the two hots (and ground for safety) for 220v and then use one hot and ground (no 'safety' ground) for 110v. However, people often got shocked because this unsafe method would often cause the entire metal chassis to take on a charge. So todays dryers (and any other machine that has both 220v and 110v components) have and are required to have 2 hots ground and neutral. However, the documentation isn't always specific about the '110v need' and a lot of 220v only equipment will still have 4 wire connections even though the neutral is not needed. If you are sure your equipment never utilizes 110v - then you don't need a neutral (a single motor, no thrills (control panel, laser guides, etc), 220v table saw would be fine with out a neutral (one with the thrills may be fine also - depends on the power requirement of the 'thrills'). I don't know about your generator is depends if it is strictly 220v.
Yes, you'd have to change the plug or use an adapter, and also change the bulb. Thry make the standard "medium base" A19 bulbs in 220v also.. here's a few:. http://www.bulbs….com/Light_Bulbs/Medium_(E26)/200V+-/results.aspx
At my marina I have a transformer which is on a power pole set in the bay the grounding wire runs into the bay to the mud below the ground wire then runs to the panel neutral bar is this bad?
No, that sounds to be as it should be.
Is it a single pole switch, or a (220)240v switch? A 240v switch is a double pole switch. It has 4 screws and disconnects both hot sources simultaneously. If it's a single pol…e 120v/277v switch, that just means you can use it on 120v or 277v circuits. If it's not a double pole switch with 4 screws, it's not the right one. Get a 240v double pole switch for this. You can usually find these at home improvement stores. When you state that the motor is a "three wire" make sure that the phasing is correct and you are not trying to connect up a three phase motor. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized IF YOU ARE NOT REALLY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
The neighboorhood power went down from 220V to 110V all the power trucks have now left how do you know if you have 220V coming in or not No Multimeter?
Most residential homes are fed with 220-240V AC 1 phase. If you lost a phase only 1/2 the circuits in your house would work Any appliances that were 220-40 VAC would not… work Basically every other circuit breaker in your panel would work and the ones that are double would not If you lost a phase and you ran an appliance and it made a humming noise instead of running turn it off immediately.. And call the electric power company to fix the supply into your house!
The very best way is to look for a data plate on the water heater. It will list the operating voltage as well as the wattage.. If there is no data plate, you could remove the… cover on the side and look at one of the heating elements. The voltage rating is usually stamped on the element somewhere.. You should also note the color of the three wires. One of them will be either green or bare. If one of the remaining two wires is white, then there is a good possibility the heater is 120V. If neither of the two wires is white, then you may have a 240V unit. You do NOT want to rely on just the wire colors, though. Find the voltage rating on the unit somewhere.
A 220v heater has two 110v lines coming into it--either two 110v lines with a neutral, like a range, or two 110v lines with no neutral, like a water heater. Unless there's a f…an in the system, they only use two wires. It's cheaper that way.\n. \nIf you have a DEDICATED circuit for each 220v heater--one where there's only one thing on the breaker--and you have at least 10/2 wire (unless the amps call for 8/2 or 6/2 wiring, which happens), you can install a two-pole breaker to feed 220v to the heater. If you're just trying to plug the heater into an outlet and get it to work, you've got a problem in that you can't pull 220v out of a 110v outlet no matter how hard you try. Sorry.
All electrical equipment needs to have a ground wire on it. This is the conductor that helps protect you in case of short circuits. It provides the electricity with a path to …ground during the short circuit. Without this return path there is the possibility that the equipment could come up to the working voltage potential. If that happened and you touched the equipment you would become the path to ground conductor with killing results. Now, to answer your question - The appliance will operate without the third wire, just not safely. A 220v appliance only needs two legs of 110v each to run. These legs need to be from different phases of electricity. We normally use alternating current at 60hz; so each phase changes polarity from positive to negative 60 times a second. As long as your 220v wires are connected to different buses in your service panel, one leg will always be positive and one negative (changing 60/sec). But don't do this. Add the third wire for safety. It is required by code.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. . Before you do any …work yourself on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized . IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS .
The fact that it's supposed to. Voltage is stated as the difference between the two wires carrying electricity to the load. When they bring power to the house from the utility…, you get two wires carrying 110v but they're 180 degrees out of phase. Imagine one carries positive 110v and the other carries negative 110v. If you hook one of these wires plus a neutral (zero volts) to the load, you get 110v--110v over 0v. If you hook both of them to the load, you get positive 110v over negative 110v, or 220v. So...red to white is 110v, black to white is 110v, red to black is 220v.
To wire a 110v outlet to 220v the 220v source must have a neutral conductor that is 110v away from the hot leg. If you don't have the neutral, you must provide a new circuit. …Do not just connect ground to the neutral terminal, as ground is not intended to carry current.
get a 480 to 220V transformer, wire one phase of 480V to the primary side of the transformer, than the secondary will give you the output for 220V.
When you talk about a 220 volt wire and 110 volt wire, the reference is to the insulation factor of the wire. The amount of amperage that the wire has a capacity to carry is i…ndependent to the amount of voltage that can be imposed on the wire. When you see wire with ratings of 300 volts, 600 volts and 1000 volts, these are the highest allowable voltages that can be impressed without going over the manufacturers recommendation of allowable voltages. A wire that is rated for 300 volts indicates that the wire is rated for 120 volts or 240 volts or 277 volts. At test research facilities, equipment is tested to destruction. The maximum voltage rating, that is given to the wire as a result of these tests, is the highest safest voltages that can be applied to that particular type of insulation material. So if you hear an electrician say a wire is good for 110 or 220 volts, what is meant is that the same wire can be used for either 110 or 220 volts. To answer the question, you don't need to change a 220 volt wire to a 110 volt wire because it is good for both voltages.