How much does it cost to build a portico?

Answer 1

A covered porch, or portico, is a welcome sight during a rain shower. (click to enlarge)

Figure A (click to enlarge)

Figure B (click to enlarge)

Figure C (click to enlarge)

Figure D (click to enlarge)

Figure E (click to enlarge)

Figure F (click to enlarge)

Figure G (click to enlarge)

Figure H (click to enlarge)

Figure I (click to enlarge)

Figure J (click to enlarge)

Figure K (click to enlarge)

Figure L (click to enlarge)

Figure M (click to enlarge)

Figure N (click to enlarge)

Figure O (click to enlarge)

Figure P (click to enlarge)

Pat and Jodi celebrate a job well done. (click to enlarge) A covered porch is great protection from sudden rain, shelter from the heat of the day and the perfect way to greet visitors with hospitality. Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks of Fix It Up! show you how to create a truly grand entrance. Adding a PorticoMaterials: measuring tape

posts

level

primer

paint

screening material

hammer

roofing nails

2" screws

power drill

aluminum base stands (one per post)

5/32" drill bit

masonry screws

post anchors

2-1/4" screws

2x6 and 2x2 lumber (for the header and ledger)

sixteenpenny and eightpenny nails

lag screws

hurricane framing clips (for areas with strong winds)

plywood sheathing

15 lb. roofing felt

shingles (consistent with the current roof of the house)

flashing

tin snips

chalk line

pneumatic nailer

siding Steps: 1. These instructions are for building a covering over an existing slab. To determine the location of the posts, measure the length of the slab as well from the door to the front edge of the slab. 2. To determine the height of the porch, measure up from the slab the height of the posts. For instance, if the posts to be used are eight feet tall, measure up eight feet from the slab and make a mark on the corner board (figure A). Choose posts that are consistent with the style of your home. 3. Ensure that the slab is level...with a level. If the slab isn't level, make sure that the posts are cut so that the porch roof is level. 4. Prime and paint the bottom of the posts to help protect the wood from moisture before you attach screening. Attach screening material over the hollow section of the post center with roofing nails. 5. Attach an aluminum base stand to each post with two-inch screws (figure B). The stands will keep the posts off the slab and reduce the chances of rot. Next attach the galvanized post anchors to the slab. Use a masonry drill bit to pre-drill holes and masonry screws to attach the post anchors (figure C). 6. Attach the posts to the post anchors with two-inch screws (figure D). Be sure that the post is plumb (use a level) before inserting all the screws. 7. Next, measure for the trim board by measuring one inch past the posts for overhang. Cut a trim board to fit the top of the posts and secure it to the posts with 2-1/4" screws (figure E). Check the posts for plumb and also add a few screws to attach the trim board to the house (if applicable). 8. Create a header by attaching 2x6s to 2x2s using sixteenpenny nails. Next, attach the header to the trim board. Use hurricane ties to further secure the header if appropriate to your area. Finally, attach a ledger board to the house with lag screws. 9. Mark the location for the joist hangers (figure F) on the ledger--16 inches on center. Temporarily toenail the joist in place, then secure the joist with a joist hanger that is screwed onto both the joist and ledger (figure G). Be sure to use all supplied holes when attaching joist hangers. And be careful working on a ladder. 10. Time to prepare for the rafters. First, nail a 2x6 band to the end of the ceiling joists. Attach the ledger for the rafters using lag screws. Mark it 16 inches on center as well. Scribe along the top and bottom of a rafter to mark the angle of the roof pitch, then measure for the length of the rafter. 11. Cut the angles of the rafter with a circular saw, then use this rafter as a template to cut the other rafters. With all the rafters cut, use sixteenpenny nails to attach them (figure H). Again, where high winds are a possibility, use framing clips to attach the rafters and joists to the ledgers. 12. Starting on the front end of the porch, lay the plywood sheathing down perpendicular to the rafters (figure I). Lay it so that it overhangs an inch on the front and is flush along the sides. Secure with eightpenny nails. Add the second piece of sheathing, staggering the seam between the two pieces an eighth of an inch. 13. Put down roofing felt and secure with roofing nails (figure J). 14. If you need to, cut flashing to length for the side of the porch that connects to the house. Next, measure 10 inches from the front edge of the roof and snap a chalk line. Then measure 10 inches from the side and pop another chalk line (figure K). Start laying the starter strip of shingles where the two lines cross. 15. Continue to lay and overlap the courses until you've reached the top (figure L). Install flashing over the last course of shingles (figure M), then cover the flashing with cut pieces of shingles. 16. Cover the underside of the joists with sheathing (figure N), utilizing a pneumatic nailer. This will be the ceiling of the porch. Next, under the roof's overhang add a piece of plywood trim to the beam. From the front, install the first soffit piece by nailing to the bottom edge of the rafters. 17. Add a vent soffit to allow air flow and attach the last piece of soffit to the front. Next, attach the fascia to the front of the roof (figure O). On the side of the roof, add a 1x8 trim piece to the bottom of the beam. Inside the porch, add trim to cover the side beams. 18. Add studs to the side(s) for siding, then attach siding to the studs. Paint the new siding to match the exterior color of the house (figure P). Finally, paint the ceiling, fascia, soffit and posts to match the trim of the house. 19. This project costs around 700 dollars and takes two days to finish.

Also in this Episode

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-612 • Adding a Portico

== Print View

email This