I assume you are using chlorine for your sanitizer: First, your swimming pool water must "BE IN BALANCE"! ALWAYS! You add chlorine to the pool on a regular basis either manually applying it or through an automatic chlorinator. The chlorine in the pool will begin to sanitize the water by attaching itself (we're talking molecules here) to the bacteria, algae spores, swimmer wastes, etc. Once it does, it still remains in the pool as chlorine according to your test kit, however it has become combined to the pollutant etc. and can do no more sanitizing. It still will show as a chlorine reading on your test kit but.....There are 2 kinds of chlorine you will have. One is combined chlorine (which cannot sanitize any longer( and (free chlorine. Free chlorine is the chlorine that hasn't killed anything yet and is still "free" and available to kill/sanitize. Now, when you have more combined chlorine in your pool than you have free chlorine, you have to separate the combined chlorine from the bacteria, etc that it is attached to. The only way you can do this is to ADD MORE CHLORINE. Or as some dealers say "SHOCK" your pool. A SHOCK DOSAGE IS 2 POUNDS per 10,000 GALLONS, for calcium hypochlorite (powdered shock) or 3 gallons per 10,000 gallons for sodium hypochlorite. THIS MUST BE DONE ON A BI-WEEKLY BASIS WHEN SWIMMERS HAVE BEEN IN THE POOL. IN ORDER FOR THE "SHOCK" TO BE EFFECTIVE YOU MUST HAVE THE pH AT 7.4 TO 7.6. If pH is too low, chlorine literally becomes so active it will do it's job and "gas of into the atmosphere" If pH is over 7.6 chlorine will not work. The key to a pool chemical maintenance is: BALANCE THE WATER. TOTAL ALKALINITY is the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR. It controls pH.
I would try flashing it a goatse, works on my neighbors mom all the time
Ans 2 - You first check Ph to make sure it's between 7.2 and 7.6 - then you mix a handful of poolshock (granulated chlorine) into a 5 gallon bucket of hot water, then slowly pour it into the pool in front of the pump/filter intake. (If Ph is much lower or higher, chlorine will not work. )
If you where swimming and someone added it yes it could be harmful to you. It is recommended to let it settle for 3 to 6 hours depending on the pool size before swimming.
The same as a normal chlorine pool
3800 gals of pool water shock it with 1 gal bleach
Yes; mix the shock with water and pour it into the pool directly in several locations and run the filter.
shock it
Absolutely do not mix shock with bleach. there are chemicals specifically designed to remove Iron from the water. Ask your pool supply store. Hatawa
Shock it. Sold at Walmart, Lowes, or possibly your grocery store.
No
Get over it. He made a mistake. You may point it out to him nicely of course. BTW it does not hurt or he may have felt that the pool needed it. BTW there is a mode in the salt system to shock the pool thru the system. precipitation
Backwash first then shock. If you shock and then backwash you will be throwing away the shock you just put.
Although one bag of shock does treat usually 10,00 gallons, that is assuming a clear pool to start with. Since you had an algae infestation, more shock will be required. A simple rule of thumb is when treating problem water to double or even triple shock the pool. Simply put, there wasn't enough shock there to finish the job. Test your water for chorine. Most shocks are chlorine based. If your chlorine is low or zero, it will confirm the need for more shock.
If the water is staying clear there is no reason to shock it.
It's best to pour the bag of shock into an empty gallon jug, say from algecide or water and then fill it with water till it dissolves then pour in thru skimmer. If the powder just sits on the pool liner bottom, it will eat at the vinyl.
Have the water tested to ascertain the cause (organics, iron, etc.) If it is organic (algae, etc) you want to shock the pool with chlorine. If it is iron you want to use a chelating agent, available in your local pool store, to remove the iron from the water before you shock..