How do you replace a manual rear view mirror on a 1999 Chevy S-10?

Answer 1

Tools needed: Small deep socket (6 or 7mm), new mirror (about $30 online, March 2008) First remove the interior door panel. See below: (This is the hard part) When door panel is removed you will see 3 black rubber plugs behind the mirror. Remove the plugs to access threaded studs with nuts holding mirror to door. Using deep socket or needle nose pliers, remove nuts and keep for new mirror. Old mirror will pull straight out. Installation is straightforward. Install new mirror in the same holes and use the removed screws to reattach. Replace plugs and door panel. To remove door panel from 1999 Chevy S-10 Tools needed: flat head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pan for small parts, retaining ring pliers are optional but nice First you have to remove the window crank. The crank is held onto the shaft by a "retaining ring", a "U" shaped spring that fits into a groove in the handle and holds it to the shaft. You can use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the crank away from the door panel to access the ring. You will need a retaining ring pliers to remove the spring or you can be creative and find a tool that is thin with a right angle or L shaped tip that can slip between the spring and the shaft and then pull up to remove the spring. You can buy the pliers, which I recommend, about $20 at auto parts store, but I found a suitable tool in my toolbox. Some paint can openers might work so be creative. Be careful, because the spring is small and will "jump" off the shaft so don't lose it. (I did this on a concrete drive so that I could find the spring more easily). Once the spring is removed, the crank handle slides right off. Next, look down into the bottom of the "pull handle" of the arm rest and you will see a long narrow plastic cap. Pry this loose to reveal two 7 mm screw heads. Remove these. Now, look at the door handle to see a triangular shaped hard plastic piece of trim behind the handle. Remove the Phillips head screw behind the handle then place a flat screwdriver or putty knife between the edge of the trim and the soft door panel and carefully pry this from the top and bottom. This is actually two pieces held together with adhesive, and when the larger piece is free from the door panel, you can carefully remove the inset inner piece using the same technique. It is a little awkward but the inner piece can be pushed from behind or pried with a thin blade. There is a tab holding the front of this piece on to the outer trim piece so push the rear out first and then the front will come out. Now remove both pieces of trim. There are plastic "prongs" around the edges of the door panel that hold it in place. Insert a flat screwdriver or putty knife between the panel and the metal door at the lower right corner. Slide it near the prong and pry it straight our. Repeat this at each prong. (I think there are 4 on the hinge side and three on the lock side). The door panel is also "lipped over" the window frame at the top, so push the panel up, while holding it out enough to clear the handle. A few taps and it should be free. Installation is basically the reverse. Caution. When reassembling the plastic trim behind the handle, you must engage the sliding lock on the inner trim piece with the metal linkage rod that controls the lock. To do this, slide the lock forward toward the hinges and the linkage backwards, toward the open side of the door. Slide the "tab" under the outer trim and push the inner trim with the lock receiver over the linkage. Once it is pushed into place, slide the lock backward while holding the trim in place to engage with the linkage. Try the lock and see if it works before you reinstall the screw. I had to use a screwdriver between the inner and out trim pieces to "adjust" the linkage so it would connect with the receiver. Reinstalling the window crank can be a little tricky. I pushed the spring over the handle groove enough so that it stayed on but not enough to fully enter the grooves. Then I pushed the handle, with a little tap and a lot of luck onto the shaft and the spring popped into place the first time. I believe the retaining ring pliers would make the removal and installation straightforward and less frustrating.