the welding amperage being used
The Type of welding you are doing, the brightness of the arc.
The helmet holds the lens. Lenses come in different shades (darkness). Use the correct shade. Most welding applications call for a shade #10. TIG weldors usually use a shade #9. Plasma applications can call for a shade #11.
A darker helmet shade, compared to gas welding. A shade of 10 for 70 amps, it works up from there, or you could buy a auto-darkening hood which you can see out of, but when you strick the rod on the metal it darkens to the right shade for you to still see out of.
Depends on multiple factors, amperage, the person and their eyesight, toleration to light. I would suggest you start at shade 10 and work downwards with shade 7 being as low as you go.
An electric welding arc produces ultraviolet light and the UV light will damage the retina. With a good welding helmet, your eyes will be protected, but you must have the proper shade (somewhere between 9 and 14 depending on your amperage) and if using an auto-darkening helmet, it must switch on quickly. (1/25000 of a second)
The Type of welding you are doing, the brightness of the arc.
If by gas welding you mean-oxyacetylene welding. The difference is just that arc welding requires a darker shade of lens. When oxyfuel gas welding (OFW) usually a shade 5 lens is recommended. When arc welding, a minimum of shade 10 lens should be used (actually shade should be determined by amount of current used).
The helmet holds the lens. Lenses come in different shades (darkness). Use the correct shade. Most welding applications call for a shade #10. TIG weldors usually use a shade #9. Plasma applications can call for a shade #11.
A darker helmet shade, compared to gas welding. A shade of 10 for 70 amps, it works up from there, or you could buy a auto-darkening hood which you can see out of, but when you strick the rod on the metal it darkens to the right shade for you to still see out of.
The amount/brightness of light given off by the process used. Shade #4 or 5 when cutting or welding using the Oxy-Fuel process is usually sufficient. Shade #9, 10, or 11 when stick, MIG, or TIG welding depending of the material being welded and Amperage used. Aluminum reflects more heat and light than most other metals so a darker shade may be called for. TIG welding produces less smoke letting more light escape the weld area, darker shade, possibly. A person whose eyes are sensitive to bright light would probably use a darker shade. I've used shades #9, 10, 11, and 12 when welding. The #12 lens when TIG welding on a ships' propeller using 300 to 400 Amps. Water cooled torch, 5/32" Tungsten. A lot of heat/light was reflected from the surface of the metal. Use as dark a shade that still allows you to see clearly. Remember, the higher the number the darker the shade.
Depends on multiple factors, amperage, the person and their eyesight, toleration to light. I would suggest you start at shade 10 and work downwards with shade 7 being as low as you go.
No on most helmets they are at a 5 shade then when turned on they will be a 3 shade lens. They will most likely have a greenish tint to them also.
A daylight filter for photography will warm color photos and provide more of a shade like effect to eliminate brightness in a photo.
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An electric welding arc produces ultraviolet light and the UV light will damage the retina. With a good welding helmet, your eyes will be protected, but you must have the proper shade (somewhere between 9 and 14 depending on your amperage) and if using an auto-darkening helmet, it must switch on quickly. (1/25000 of a second)
Depends on the type of material to be welded, the size of the flame, and in my situation slowly deteriorating eyesight. Basically shade 4 or 5 will be adequate. As dark as 6 on aluminum. You will be able to tell if you aren't using a dark enough shade as you can get a "flash" ( Like a sunburn on the eyes). Start with a #5 and go from there.