European wiring has two principal colour schemes:
On appliances from the last 40 years, and recent fixed wiring:
Live: Brown; Neutral: Blue; Earth: Green with yellow tracer
On older appliances, and in older fixed wiring:
Live: Red; Neutral: Black; Earth: Green OR Green with yellow tracer.
Until you can satisfy yourself (beyond any doubt) as to which wires on your appliance relate to live, neutral and earth, you should NOT attempt to connect the appliance. Either check the manual or contact the manufacturer.
Also, depending on the appliance, you need to consider that the US uses 60Hz alternating current whereas Europe uses 50Hz. This may or may not prevent the appliance working correctly.
To answer this question fully the type of appliance has to be stated and its voltage.
The black wire is the hot wire through which the electrical current flows to the appliance. The left over voltage which is usually zero flows back to the main circuit panel through the white neutral wire where it flows to ground.
It is most likely that the appliance is 220-240 Volts. Check the rating plate. If so you need to connect to that type of service and to a breaker that will handle the load. The 220-240 Volts is connected between Red and Black, White is neutral and provides 110-120 Volts between it and Red or Black. The Green is the ground.
Wiring to the circuit breakers is 220 volts. The circuit breaker box has 2 110 Volt lines. If you connect two black lines together from one side nothing happens. If the these two black wires are from different circuit breakers you may have a safety issue by back feeding the electricity. If you connect 2 different 110 volt lines you will end up with a short. This ends up as a 220 volt short.
I assume you are talking about 120volt electrical circuits ???? If so, just wire them in parallel. In other words, connect the black wire to line side on each circuit and the white wire to neutral on each circuit. The bare ground wire goes to ground (green) At each circuit will be 120 volts AC. Do not exceed the maximum current of the circuit breaker supplying the current (typically 15 - 20 amps)
It seems like you are describing the Red, Black, White and Ground in your electric panel. There is 240 VAC between Black and Red and 120 VAC between Black and White and 120 VAC between Red and White. The electric panel has two busses that supply 120 VAC on alternating breakers in your panel. Essentially, the Red turns into "black" in the panel for all practical purposes. If you have a 240 VAC circuit it essentially takes up to two vertical positions in your electric panel.
In a household circuit, with a "hot" conductor insulated black and a white neutral, the black wire should connect to the center terminal of the socket. The outside part of the socket usually has a brass screw (for the black wire) and a nickel screw (for the white wire).
Assuming the wires are 2 blacks and 2 whites, and assuming one set provides power and the other set continues the circuit downline, you connect both black wires to the black wire of the lamp holder and connect both white wires to the white wire of the lamp holder. Turn the circuit off before making these connections.
Shundra Oakley
To answer both of your questions they are most likely data exchange cables
Your old wiring has 2 "hot" wires and a ground. Your new appliance needs 2 "hot" wires, a Neutral, and a ground. Please consult an electrician.
In some cases in residential wiring you do. From a light fixture junction box to a switch box, the cable is a two wire, black and white. To connect the switch into the circuit at the fixture box, the "hot" conductor is connected to the white wire that goes down to the switch. The switched "hot" comes back on the black wire and this is then connected to the fixtures black wire. The white (neutral) is picked up in the fixtures junction box and connected to the fixtures white wire.