How do you clean green pool water?

Answer 1

To clean murky and green pool water, follow these steps:

1. First and foremost make sure you have good flow. Clean your filter and all your baskets.

2. Next, balance your water. If your alkalinity is low, you are running the risk of staining your pool.

3. Then, use a algaecide and shock your pool. When you purchase the algaecide ask someone that works there( or read the directions carefully). The ones that have been found to work best require you to shock with the treatment.

4. After that, run your filter 24 hours and test it again. The algaecide will bring your chlorine level down so you must make sure it does not get too low. At this point your water may be cloudy or you may have a lot of dead algae on the floor.

5. Vacuum up that algae and clean that filter out. If the water is cloudy use the directions below they are great! Just keep cleaning that filter out until that water is clear.

Another effective way to solve this problem, using the cartridge filter, is this:

1. To kill the algae, use lots of chlorine, algaecide etc.

2. Coagulate the dead algae into large clumps. Pool supply stores sell a spray coagulator that attaches to a garden hose. Spray it over the pool and let it sit overnight.

3.Add diatomaceous earth to the filter. This white powder is sold in pool stores and used to be necessary before cartridges became affordable. Add a lot. This coats the filter and makes it impermeable, even to algae-sized particles.

4. Run the vacuum and filter till pressure exceeds 35, then clean. Cleaning the filter causes a flood of the white earth to run off, so pick a good site. I bring mine to the car wash and clean it with the rinse pressure hose.

5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the pool is clear.

This works, and you don't lose pool water, but here are a couple of points:

1. Prevention is best. Keep chlorine levels over 2ppm, use algaecide, even when the pool looks good.

2. The cartridge filter rarely survives. Once the pool is clear, buy a new filter and throw out the old one.

Here is more advice and knowledge from Wiki s' contributors:First off you need to shock the pool. I recommend buying granular chlorine (normally about $5 for 2lbs) and mixing it with water. It is much cheaper than buying liquid shock. Add 2 tablespoons of glandular to one gallon of water and dissolve it. Broadcast around the pool, then run the filter for 48 hours. If algae is present, use a copper algaecide to rid the pool of the growth before shocking.

Over chlorination will not cause algae growth. Period. Have the pool tested for phosphates. In many cases, this causes repeated algae growth. Then triple shock with 3L liquid chlorine per 10000L pool water. You have to add enough chlorine to kill all the algae and leave a bit of chlorine left over. Once the dead algae settles to the bottom, vacuum to waste.

Heavily shock the pool, depending on how many gallons your pool is, preferably using liquid chlorine. Do that every other day until the algae is gone. Clean your filter at least twice a day if using a cartridge filter and backwash once a day if using a D.E. filter.

You can also re-filter the pool or have a professional clean the pool.

Alternative Methods and Technology

Over the last four or five years we have been substituting an electronic purifier for chemicals. Chemicals in the main are old technology, are expensive, and if you are in a pool for a long time, you can get itchy skin and sore eyes. A company called Care Free Clearwater produces an electronic purifier developed by NASA. For us, it has worked very well over the years. We have not had any problems with "green" pools.

It's true that too much chlorine does not cause algae growth, but there is a better and safer way to clean a pool. Advanced treatment options, such as ultraviolet technology, provides a greater destruction rate of bacteria, algae, virus and germs than any chemical treatment. Recent studies by the World Health Organization recognise UV as the only treatment option that kills the algae, bacteria, and virus without the harmful chemical side effects. You can reduce chemical use by as much as 95%. Science has provided a better way than using salt systems, chlorine, triple shock, and Muratic acid that is well worth looking into.

It's true that too much chlorine will not feed algae, but too many chloramines, which is dead or dormant chlorine, absolutely can and will. When triple shocking with chlorine, you must understand that you can only do it to 10 times your chlorine level. If your chlorine level is 2.0 ppm, you must add enough chlorine to reach 12 ppm, or you are

wasting time and money, and adding to the phosphate levels, which is algae's primary food. Ultraviolet is an awesome addition to any chemical, whether chlorine, bromine or salt. The key word is addition. Used as a stand alone sanitizer it will not recover quickly enough to kill bacteria in the water if you deplete its residual, which is like one person getting in a 500 gallon hot tub for 15 minutes and urinating once. Under those conditions, ultraviolet is no longer effective for quite some time.

Also - Algae will eat up any chlorine added to the pool. Many pool owners do not check for the stabilizer(conditioner) readings in the pool. Use a test strip that will read the conditioner level in the pool water. A low conditioner level means that the chlorine in the water has nothing to "bind" to, or is not "stabilized". Low levels of conditioner will cause the chlorine in the pool to disipate in a couple of days, no matter how much chlorine you add.

Another way of doing this is to add a specialty chemical designed to clear up the water in your pool. One such product is 'Clear Cloudy Pools' From Technical Pool Solutions. This product is really amazing all you do is add 1 oz per 1000 gallans and it is non-chlorine based and doesn't require that you shut down your pool. Unless of course it is too dirty to be open in the first place. This product removes all the particles from the water that are making your pool cloudy and drops them down to the main drain. Simply run your vacuum or main drain continuously until the particle have been removed.

1. The first thing you do is try to shock the pool with chlorine this can sometime work well enough to fix the problem. Make sure that you brush hand vacuum (to Waste walls and floor of the pool after the dead algae has settled to the bottom.
2. If that does not work try the same procedure with the aid of an algaecide. Follow the instructions on the container and mention to the pool shop where you buy it what you are doing You will be surprised how keen they will be to help you.
3. If that still does not work you may need to get a floculent or clarifier to sink all of the algae to the bottom and then vacuum it to waste, once again get your pool shop to advise you regarding the floculents available in your location

Answer 2

The absolute fix for algae bloomed pool: DRAIN , ACID WASH and REFILL.

Acid Washing an In Ground Pool: Also called a drain & acid clean. An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the "black lagoon". This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it's probably time to drain & acid clean.

Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can usually bring it back with chemicals, labor and extensive filtering.

However , once a pool has turned dark green or even black , algae and mold spores have impregnated themselves into every porous depth of the pool surface and are difficult or impossible to remove by traditional cleaning and chlorinating methods.

As a result the pool will continue to spawn new mold, algae and bacteria at an accelerated rate causing the pool to turn green quickly even though you may be vacuuming and chlorinating more. This will play havoc on your filter media such as sand ,cartridges or DE requiring frequent media changes to remove the contaminants.

If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will permanently stain and adhere to plastered , concrete and gunite pools, making an acid wash desirable.

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster or concrete, exposing fresher , undamaged and clean material beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for replastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few careful acid washes should not hurt. Pools can also be commercial strength bleach washed or high pressure washed if the effected area isn't that bad.

Costs to acid wash and emptied pool range between 900.00 and 1200.00 in Maryland , Virginia and DC. If your pool is filled with contaminated water and debris, the cost to drain and acid wash may range 1600.00 to 2800.00 depending on the degree of contamination and the amount of non-drainable debris that must be removed and disposed of by manual labor.

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, mold , algae and bacteria but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer and save you a bundle in lost pool time , labor , filter media and chemicals.

Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.

In many states , permits may be required.

Answer 3

ou may be able to go to a local farm store and talk with them about copper sulphate

AnswerDark green coloring is usually caused by algae. Get some algaecide from your pool supplier. It will kill the algae and cause it to sink to the bottom, allowing you to vacuum it up. AnswerIf you are just opening the pool and haven't filled it up....empty it and start over. If that's not an option the use 3 or 4 bags of shock, plus 2 or 3 chlorine tablets, put it in the water let it settle, maybe 2 hours, vacumm the pool, back wash the filter when your done. See if its better, if not wait until the next day put another back of shock in , vacumm, and back wash again. Answerif your pool is green(algae), first treat it with either Clorox bleach or chlorine granules, depending on the size of your pool. once the green fades to a light green to yellow, empty the pool. prefered method is pumping into a storm drain or sewer. again, your pool size plays an important part on how to treat your pool's algae problem. be very careful on skin contact with the green and then the treated water.you may get in contact with some harmful diseases. rise skin with clean water then with an anti-bacterial soap.

Answer 4

the "greenish look" is probably just an alge build-up from the water being heated by the sun, and is constantly contained in your pool. other paricles like, possibly misquito larve and branches, and dirt can give your pool a dirtly look.

solution? chlorine.

ps. not too much though - too much chloirine can effect your water

Answer 5

Shock treatment.

Answer 6

Ad an algaecide