OF COURSE BUT they should be of non scaling materials and be pitched slightly away from the fixtures being served so any condensation will flow back towards the fixture drain and allowing for hot air to rise up to the vent terminal
I BELIEVE: In a horizontal run, the p-trap must be below the vent. Otherwise, the vent may fill with water, creating a blockage, which would then syphon the water from the p-trap causing odors and health concerns from sewer gas. On a horizontal run, the vent must come off the run (presumably with a "wye") where the vent run is above the center line of the drainage run, thus the p-trap is lower than the vent...
Yes. How depends on the governing code. You'll need to know how many fixture units you are serving (lavatory=1, sink=2, toilet =3 or 4, shower =2, bidet=1, dishwash=2, clothes wash = 2), what size pipe you are venting and what size vent pipe you are using. Internationallly there may be no percentage limit on horizontal vs total vent length, but within the U.S., look for a percent limitation. For example, Illinois limits horizontal vent to 20% of the total run (referred to as developed length). You should be able to find the applicable table in the local State plumbing code at your local library.
Most residential home plans do not include a schematic for plumbing. They simply locate the various fixtures on the floorplan. Plumbing codes are very specific in respect to sizing of pipes, the number of devices on a vent, etc. It is generally up to the plumber doing the work to determine where to run pipes, hence no schematics. One exception would be large tract builders where building many copies of a particular model (floor plan) justify the expense of an architect designing a specific plumbing plan that is consistent for a single model.
no, for health reasions,
start at the2 nd floor run it down to the existing pipes, will have to run it outside of walls, unless you want to tear the wall out, then make a cover for it
Yes, but only pipe, fittings too big in diameter where they glue together to fit in 2X4 wall.
The problem is the solinoid valve in the dishwasher Pay your water bill
There doesn't seem to be very much information on this particular subject. The plumbing in a home would be designed and built into the particular project it is being built for, some of the basics of plumbing in a home is that the water is piped from the supply to a cutoff valve, to a pump, another cutoff valve, then split at the water heater to provide hot and cold water. From this point on it is split into two different pipes that run throughout the home which will give water supply to mainly three rooms in a basic home - the bathroom, the kitchen, and the laundry room. When the water supply has reached the destination there is a cutoff valve added to allow for plumbing repair. If there are multiple floors in a home then generally the bathrooms or any new rooms requiring water will be located in the same vicinity of the other floors, shich allows the pipes to be run perpendicular through the walls. In an addition the new pipes from a lower floor must be accomdated by drilling through firestops and cutting through the walls creating access points to the existing pipes and what ever may lay between where you are hooking in the new pipes and their new supply area. The other end of the water supply is the drain and vent system. The items requiring water supply must have some sort of vent built into them and some sort of draining source which will carry the waste water to the sewage.
Most codes have a limitation on the percentage of a vent that can run true horizontal. In my state the horizontal run (anything greater than 45 degrees off true vertical) is limited to one third the distance of the total vertical rise.
It depends upon the venting that is used, look for your vent pipes on the roof and see if any are close to open windows. If you find a particularly close vent pipe (and you home has several vent pipes) you can add a "Studor Vent" to the top of the vent. A Studor vent is the equivalent to a one-way air valve that only allows air to pass, or be drawn, into the pipe, so that sewer gases will be greatly reduced. You don't even have to use pipe cement/adhesive to secure the Studor Vent.
Generally the best thing is air. If you can inject air into your tank or directly into the plumbing, it will knock a lot of the collected minerals off the pipes. Be sure to run the water off from an outdoor faucet or bath tub where it won't plug all your aerators.
It depends on how the pipes in your house run and requires compliance with the local code used in your area, usually IPC or UPC call a local plumber.