I would probably say that you have a bad Body Control Module. It is located in the center console, it controls all your locks, lights and such. You can find one at a junk yard or buy a new one from the dealer. I know my 98 was pretty expensive.
no if it is ulcoked that is permanent
No
I have had this problem, there is a small spring inside one of the doors that is broken causing the doors to relock on there own, replacing the broken spring should fix the problem
I recently found a similar problem. It seemed to be a bad connection in the wireing harness on the driverside door controls, there was a fraid wire.(The thick black one. Or the Earth cable)In my case it was originally soldered and taped up but the voltage must have been bleeding out through the tape,somehow because when i used crimps it worked fine.It seems to happen a lot with lower voltages. Or it was simply a bad connection at any one of the connection points throughout the door.
Use the remote door lock to lock the doors, then unlock, then lock. The alarm should be reset. If not get in the vehicle, lock all the doors with them closed, unlock them, relock them walla alarm reset!
well im not really sure it unjailbroke it BUT it still works on my ATT sim but im not sure if its supposed to work on the iphone or not since its not a normal ATT sim card with a normal rate its not an iphone plan but it still works on it i dunno bout bootloader
1. close & lock all door using driver's side power lock switch 2. place key in & (fully) out of ignition 6 times within 10 seconds (the hazard lights will flash 2x) 3. turn the key to the acc position 4. unlock and relock the doors with the switch on the driver's door 5. press the lock button on the remote (the hazard lights should flash again) [NOTE: This part is less certain but if there are any other remotes (including old), unlock doors (and re-lock?) within 5 seconds, then press lock button on the next remote; repeat for remaining remotes] 6. remove the key, unlock door, open and close door, and try remote
take out the fuse that causes these locks to relock...should be on the drivers side, underneath , about 9 oclock position...if not should be under hood fuse relay box no its not
you need a flat screw driver & a 9/16 box wrench ,slide the over the screwdriver insert it into slot inside the locknut put the wrench on the loc nut holding the screwdriver firm and with a sharp slap on the wrench counter clockwise that should do it.to relock it do in reverse order after the adjustment is made.
Yes, you can pick a simple lock in either the unlocked or locked position. There isn't much difference in the actions between the two. Additional Response: When a lock is unlocked, there are no more pins to manipulate. All one has to do is turn the cylinder inside the kik (Key in Knob) housing, and it slides into place. You can use a pick, you can use a fingernail file, you can use pressure on the outside of the actual cylinder and just turn it with your finger. An unlocked cylinder - in all cases that I am aware of at least - has the pins separated and the bottom pins aren't even touching the kik. There's no resistance present, so yes, it can be "relocked" with a pick. It can also be relocked by putting your finger on it and spinning it a little bit. There are no pins to manipulate in order to "relock" any lock I have ever encountered - and I've seen quite a few.
I assume you mean rear axle lock... The axle lock function works as follows: Push the switch in once to lock the rear, twice to lock the front as well. Then pushing the switch will unlock/relock the front. With just the rear locked, pull the switch twords you to unlock the rear. Or you can move the transfer case lever to 2WD, which will disengage the lockers.
According to SOWPODS (the combination of Scrabble dictionaries used around the world) there are 1 words with the pattern R-L-CK. That is, six letter words with 1st letter R and 3rd letter L and 5th letter C and 6th letter K. In alphabetical order, they are: relock